1960 Suburban 400 Trans Question(2)

[RJ Hamner 1,011]

Just started disassembly of my "Christmas Present" from the wife. 

Now that it is reduced to pieces/parts I had started making the first of many lists of needed parts. 

I started with the transmission (5010)

Right off the bat I noticed that the two different oil seals (1234/704113 oil seals & 1257/742000 axle oil seals) come up as discontinued

I am sure that someone has had this problem before me so I am looking for a little help

 

I also noticed that there are only two plugs on this transmission one below the right axle to check the amount of fluid and another on the top.  Is this the only way to add or check the fluid level???

Edited December 28, 2016 by RJ Hamner
forgot to load pic

[AMC RULES 37,134]

You can remove the shifter, and add the fluid from the top. 

[953 nut 55,885]

Here is some good reading material that should cover everything you nee to know.

 

[oliver2-44 9,875]

In the Transmission section, One of these pdf files is for the 5010 transmission, It gives cross reference information for all the 5010 seals (except the axle seal) and bearing to Motion Industry part numbers. for the axle seals check several vendors (parts Tree, RPW, etc) Toro seems to makes them in batches, so they are NLA, the available again..  They were NLA then about 6 months ago I bought a set and everyplace seemed to have them available,  Also, there is a member here @Jake Kuhn who sells a kit of gaskets and seals and bearings depending on what you need.  By the time you do all the legwork, Jakes kits are an attractive buy.

[WHX?? 49,191]

You can also add fluid through the seat bring bolt holes till it comes out the upper drain hole. Another vendor here is going to offer rebuild kits soon but Jake would be the go to guy if you want them right away. Axle tube seals I think I got from a Toro dealer.  I did a 5010 a while back here

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/57982-dennys-free-suburban-work/#comment-535229

Tranny work starts on post 47. Lots of other threads on these as well or use your shout out if you have problems.

[stevasaurus 22,882]

Along with the above information...you can drain the transmission by taking out one of the lower, back side bolts that hold on the side plate.    If it doesn't drain right away, stick an awl in there to move sludge out of the way.  I like to fill the trans (up to the side plug) like Jim mentioned...through the seat spring bolt holes.

 

[RJ Hamner 1,011]

Thanks for all the replies/information

 The manual is going to be a great help for this one and the next in line

The parts cross pdf was a great help with the seals and they are on order

I called a place that used to be WH dealers and she located one gasket and will look some more to see if she can find another

I liked the idea of drilling and tapping for a magnetic drain plug mentioned in one of the threads

Thanks again for the help!!!

[WHX?? 49,191]

Your welcome RJ...A lot of guys use just the gasket in a tube products for sealing them back up. I know Steve uses a product called Yamabond 40 with no problems. I have used Permatex products with excellent results & gasket maker used on the rear end of trucks to seal up the differentials.

 

The mag drain plug was my idea but I am probably not the first guy to come up with it. Quick easy and very low cost. I searched on buying some but guys want 35 clams for one in 3/8 npt which is what I used. I just took a 3/8 drain plug drilled it 1/8 and JB welded in a 1/8 magnet I got off dirt cheap on ebay. Probaly never need it as this is just gonna pull tubs around the yard but what the heck no harm done. You could just do the same thing with one of the case bolts but my 3/8 npt tap needed work!

[RJ Hamner 1,011]

With all the knowledge I gained this afternoon I went out to the garage fully armed with confidence and tackled the tranny.

Well I have good news and bad news.

Once I got the hubs off and the seals removed (someone must have hit the red button from Staples cuz "That Was Easy") and the side plate off

Good News: everything looked REALLY good for a 56 year old transmission

Not So Good News: one of the boss's on the bottom row is cracked off and another is now looking too good

Now for the Bad:  Someone must have hit a stump. 

It appears that they made the repair by brazing the crack or broken piece back on then covered everything with a metal patch that looks brazed and sealed with a grey material that is now hard and is cracking.

Now I am wondering if I should try to find another case or clean up everything and paint the patch metal like a BandAid and go forward

With all the knowledge I gained this afternoon I went out to the garage fully armed with confidence and tackled the tranny.

Well I have good news and bad news.

Once I got the hubs off and the seals removed (someone must have hit the red button from Staples cuz "That Was Easy") and the side plate off

Good News: everything looked REALLY good for a 56 year old transmission

Not So Good News: one of the boss's on the bottom row is cracked off and another is now looking too good

Now for the Bad:  Someone must have hit a stump. 

It appears that they made the repair by brazing the crack or broken piece back on then covered everything with a metal patch that looks brazed and sealed with a grey material that is now hard and is cracking.

Now I am wondering if I should try to find another case or clean up everything and paint the patch metal like a BandAid and go forward

BTW:  I found that the 1257 Axle seals are under a new part number of 83-2840

I can't remember where I read or heard that but thought I'd pass it along

BTW:  I found that the 1257 Axle seals are under a new part number of 83-2840

I can't remember where I read or heard that but thought I'd pass it along

[WHX?? 49,191]

Yikes that does look bad...had to been a rock to break it like that, that would have taken some force. May be dropped off the back of a truck?? ...probably the grey stuff is JB weld or something like that that they tried to seal the oil leaks up. I would start looing for a donor case at this point and use that one for a door stop. Check around the forum here someone may have one.  Yes the good news is doesn't appear to have a great deal of water sitting in it.

[stevasaurus 22,882]

Definitely, an interesting fix.  I would advertise in the classifieds for a new case.  They are getting harder to find though.  Jim's right, the grey looks like JB Weld.  I've tried JB Weld on these before...looks good but doesn't stick like it should...too much oil in the casting I think.

 

For the record...I do not like YamaBond or anything else like a gasket goop for these transmissions.  I did try it once...the problem is that you need the widths of the 2 gaskets so the side plates don't pinch the gear shafts and stop the transmission from turning.  The goop stuff works great for gas tanks and such though. 

[RJ Hamner 1,011]

I thought that I would get some 1/16" gasket material and try my hand at making the gaskets

Even if I screw it up a few time (I failed Arts and Crafts in grade school) I might be money ahead instead of $20 apiece for WH gaskets

[stevasaurus 22,882]

AutoZone carries a gasket material called Kero-Pak...about $6 for a 1' x 3' x 1/32".  The 1/32" thickness is the correct thickness for these transmissions.  You can use the ball peen hammer method, or you can trace the inside and outside with the casting on the material and then cut with a knife.  I like to leave about 1/4" around the outside...that gives you something to grab for adjusting the gasket.  Trim with a razor knife when done. 

 

I think that $18 price is for a set of gaskets (2). 

Edited December 29, 2016 by stevasaurus