C160 independent hydraulic hitch progress

[Hacksawhero123 351]

I've been busy in my spare time working on this hitch idea. I bought an unfinished sleeve hitch from Wheelhorseman1000 (btw, Lowell makes a great product and sells them too cheap). The cylinder is a factory Horse deck lift cylinder. I'm waiting for my o-ring kits to rebuild and stack two more spool valves (total of three valves). Then after I build some hoses, I'm all set. This has been an enjoyable project. 

Mark. 

Edited December 26, 2016 by Hacksawhero123

[Digger 66 3,478]

THAT IS DANG COOL ! 

[KC9KAS 4,741]

Very neat idea and fabrication work!

 

[oliver2-44 9,743]

I like it! I also plan to do something like that ones of these days! Hopefully sooner than later!  

[Sarge 3,463]

Make sure that cylinder can't bottom out and put too much force against the cast iron housing or the hitch pin area - they can break if stressed enough since cast iron basically won't flex .

Looks exactly like what I wanted to do other than maybe splitting the lift arm in the dash on the older models and making another arm on the right side to work like the left , giving the older models a second lift option for the cable going to the rear .

Interested to see how this works -

 

Sarge

[Hacksawhero123 351]

Sarge, I was cautious about that. The cylinder runs out of travel before the hitch runs out of swing. We shall find out how well it works in a few days after I get the hoses made and the additional spool valve installed. Thanks!  

Mark. 

[R. L. Addison 299]

I put a rear  hyd. cylinder on a  C141 in '90 or 91 and I use standard equipment with it, tiller, clevis hitch, rear blade, etc. with no problem. One problem I can foresee with your set-up is unless you have a "float" position in your valve, the rear wheels may come off the ground rather than engaging the ground (I bought a loader valve for an ARK loader).

 

I'll try to put a picture of my frame-work but, don't hold your breath.

 

Can't tell much from picture, but I think you have a good start but may want to move your cylinder towards the front of the tractor some.

 

As I mentioned earlier for floating, a "D" series valve would work or chain links, or maybe it will be O.K. for your application.

[Hacksawhero123 351]

Yeah, A float position would be nice. Do you happen to know if one was made that will stack with the factory Omco valves?  I'll run it the way that it is and we will know then if it needs a float. I just finished rebuilding and installing my 3 valve stack. Thanks for the input Mr Addison. I learn something new every time I log on here. 

Mark 

[cleat 5,934]

You may also be able to give it float mechanically by adding a slot, chain etc to the linkage instead of it being solidly attached.

 

The 3 point on my diesel tractor only has float with no down pressure.

 

[Sarge 3,463]

The D series valves do not have a float position to my knowledge unless maybe the D-250 model does . The "float" action comes from the design of the D's rockshaft with the center lift link riding loose on the shaft . It is pushed up/down by a pin in two welded arms next to it or you have the option to pin it solidly between those two arms . It's helpful but limits the lift height of the blade and it reacts fairly slowly due to the geometry of those arms . I run the 56" blade with the center lift link solidly pinned and use the spring loaded lift link to the blade - it works pretty well and allows some light down pressure that is adjustable via the threaded rod through the spring .

Blade_Dozer_56in_1974_6-1141.pdf

 

_Tractor 1975 D-160-180-200 OM #803977.pdf

 

Details of how it's done on the D are in those two manuals .

You could incorporate something similar into your rear hitch parts .

 

Sarge

[R. L. Addison 299]

Maybe I better do some checking. I have a "D" series valve with what I took for a float detent. I've been trying to find out who made the omco valves to see if I could get a detent block for the other side. Second thought, the "D" I had at one time had float

on the three point for the plow & tiller, and I think the c195's did also for the same reason if my memory serves me right. (I have been wrong in the past many times in the past though, if not, I would be much better off). Gotta check!

 

Ron

 

[Hacksawhero123 351]

Ok. I've got it all together now. Of course it's rained for two days so I can't test the plow. The rear cylinder has plenty of power on the lift stroke. With me standing (200lbs) on the plow it lifts easily. On down stroke it does not have enough power to lift the machine. Although without the plow, I can put a jack under the hitch and it will lift the machine. This is working as I had hoped. I intentionally used a small cylinder as to not have enough power to start finding weak links in the rest of the framework. I wasn't trying to build a tow truck. Thanks for your input fellas. When it dries up here, I'll get some video of it tearing up the yard. 

Mark. 

[Sarge 3,463]

Yup , we need video..

There are spool valves out there with a side detent for float as well as knob controlled versions - just have to find a hydraulics shop willing to do some digging .

Sarge

[R. L. Addison 299]

I can't load the picture of my "D" series valve, here again I would have to email pictures to someone who could post them.

 

The float detent is very visible.

[Sarge 3,463]

I gotta look into this - mine only has the handle for the center lift right now - don't have the rear cylinder and the 3pt for it yet but hunting one...

Sarge

[can whlvr 993]

so can I ask a question,to put other control on you simply bolt in another section,i ask because I have a spare valve and cylinder and hoses from another c 160,and I have a c160 hydro,id like to add a cylinder for something like that

[R. L. Addison 299]

Be sure the o ring between the valve stack has life to seal, add longer bolts and hook up hoses. There are places where a float detent is very necessary, but I don't know how you want to use it.