Honestly.. should I split this case?

[Ed Kennell 38,715]

JB (Jim Beam) to the rescue again.

[ztnoo 2,298]

I prefer Bacardi, myself........but what ever works is fine by me.

Good job.

Looks like you may have a "runner" again soon.

[mikeeyre74 289]

Got the teeth welded up on my parking pawl and just finished grinding the welds down a bit to look more like gear teeth. 

 

I think that the parking brake seal is at the store now waiting for me to pick it up, and the machinist is running my axles through the end mill tomorrow morning for the new keyways. Things are starting to come around now!

 

 

 

Mike

[ztnoo 2,298]

[mikeeyre74 289]

My friend who is machining these axles for me sent some pictures across.. check it out:

 

 

 

 

They're in the mail on their way back to me now. 

 

So when I go to reassemble, should I install the axel seals first before the axels go in, or the axels in first and then the seals? I'm thinking easier to put the seal in first, but I'm open to other ideas if there's a good reason for it....

 

Mike

[pfrederi 17,895]

 Seals last.  You are going to have to protect the seal lip from being cut on the sharp edges of you keyway.  I do it by wrapping the axle in electrical tape then sliding the seal over it.  you can't do that if you are going to push the axle through the bearings .

[daveoman1966 3,762]

Befor you install the axle(s),

(1) make a paper 'cup' to fit over the slotted end of each...(3 or so inches long), similar to this pic.    

(2) install axles into trans, then put the paper 'cup' over each end.

(3) slide new seal over-top of paper and drive it home.

(4) pull out paper cup.

Using this paper cup method, you don't have to pull off the electrical tape from the axle...cause it gets stuck.

[mikeeyre74 289]

So.. anyone got a better part number for the parking brake pawl shaft seal? Measured it and it's a .680-ish size hole with a 1/2" diameter shaft.. and I got a part number here (4911SKF) I think was that x-referenced to a ATP SO-19 seal that I got from my local Levine's, but this measures .750" OD, so that's no-good. Again, it's a 1976 C-120Auto Sundstrand. Whenever I punch in 4911 into the ATP x-ref search box, it comes back to SO-19 which just doesn't work? 

[pfrederi 17,895]

I use SKF (I still call them Chicago Rawhide...old school) 4911 is the correct seal number.  I am not familiar with ATP SO-19. Any parts store should be able to get you SKF seals

[mikeeyre74 289]

So, the transmission/brake pawl seal finally came in.. but it wasn't a square sided seal like the one pictured above. I got it from NAPA and it was a metal case thing that was relatively sharp edged.. and I smashed the crap out of it trying to put it in. I'm waiting a few days for a couple replacements to come in now, but.. whats the trick here? I deburred the edge before I tried to drive in, learning from the last time I put seals into the axels. What gives? 

[pfrederi 17,895]

One time I had a hard tome getting the new seal in...turned out someone had out in two seals i had only removed one.  Did they give you a 4911??  (I usually get two seals tyat way if i mess one up (it happens) i am not stopped dead.  If I do it right I have a spare

 

I use a bushing tool in picture you could make up something with #10 bolt/nut and some washers to help push it in evenly.

[mikeeyre74 289]

Well, that's the seal they gave me, that one you have there with that fancy tool in the picture. It doesn't look like the ones in the picture above that. Those star edges were causing me problems. But that's what you used and it got the job done well? Alright, I'll re-evaluate.. 

[pfrederi 17,895]

The "star" is just excess rubber (or whatever it is they use) Utility knife cleans it up.  If you don't want to use a tool try very lightly tapping it working your way around trying to keep it even

[mikeeyre74 289]

 It's been a while since I last posted, I was waiting on some parts to come in, and then I smashed the parking break seal the first time I tried to put it in so I had to order some new ones… And they came from out of state and took a little while.   In either case, I got back to work today and managed to get the parking break the seal installed successfully. It doesn't look like the one that came out, but it's very close. 

 

 

Then, I reassembled the differential, using new nuts because the plastic watch that part that torn up on the old ones. I also used Loctite when I reassembled.Then, I reassembled the differential, using new nuts because the plastic watch that part that torn up on the old ones. I also used Loctite when I reassembled.

 

 

Everything got cleaned up with brake clean on the way back together,  and then oiled up the bearings as I reassembled things . In this photo you can see the repaired parking brake pawl installed.

 

 

 Here, you can see the full length keyways that I had milled in the axles. They just cleared the seal when I installed the seal flush… There's actually room to double up on the seals if I wanted to, or just knock this one and further a bit, but it can't go in any further than it is right now and works OK, by the looks of things.  The oil sealing  portion is actually inboard about .100" of an inch anyway  so it still looks good either way. 

 

 

 And here it is. It doesn't look like much yet because I haven't painted it, but it's all back together  and everything seems to spin just fine.   I'll be starting to work on the hydraulic stuff next. 

 

 

[pfrederi 17,895]

I would check out the linkage to make sure you parking brake will not drag like mine did after reassembly.

 

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/68077-sundstrand-parking-pawl-issueanother-one/

[mikeeyre74 289]

I did. I just happened to read yours before posting and looked into that afterwards. Thanks for the heads up. 

[mikeeyre74 289]

Been a while since I've been able to work this but I finally got back to the grind the other day. Unfortunately, I totally forgot to take pictures of the hydro motor and stuff as I went through it all, but it wasn't nearly as tricky as I figured. Even the cylinder blocks went pretty smoothly on reassembly. I did take this one picture of the acceleration valves (yes?) 

 

 

And yeah, I took them apart and cleaned out that entering orifice there that's insanely small.

 

Got this on:

 

 

And then buttoned it up:

 

 

As I was assembling the cylinder blocks, I was reading the manual and things just started to click. It wasn't as difficult as it seemed when taking it apart. I'm waiting for some JB weld to dry on the screen I had to fix and then I'll attach this to the transmission and give it a test spin with the power drill to see how things go, if that's feasible? Or is there a better way to bench test it? Can I do it somehow without attaching it to the transmission, in case there is a problem, to have one less thing to remove if so?

 

Mike

 

[daveoman1966 3,762]

You'll need to connect this fully to the transaxle before making any kind of test.  The transaxle is the fluid immersion reservoir and if you do a 'dry run' bench test without immersion in fluid (oil or ATF), it is likely to damage the internals. Did you get the 'Charge Pump Housing' oriented correctly before bolting down the pump section to the end cap?  The unit will not work if you got it backwards (don't ask how I know).  Note the PIN in this pic... it MUST be toward the bottom side of the pump end cap.

[Ed Kennell 38,715]

That Teflon tape makes me nervous.   Make sure non is over the end of the male threads.

Edited February 27, 2017 by Ed Kennell

[mikeeyre74 289]

8 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

You'll need to connect this fully to the transaxle before making any kind of test.  The transaxle is the fluid immersion reservoir and if you do a 'dry run' bench test without immersion in fluid (oil or ATF), it is likely to damage the internals. Did you get the 'Charge Pump Housing' oriented correctly before bolting down the pump section to the end cap?  The unit will not work if you got it backwards (don't ask how I know).  Note the PIN in this pic... it MUST be toward the bottom side of the pump end cap.

 

I did get that oriented correctly, but only by accident! I had already bolted it down when I came in to check some things in the book and I ran across your post to another guy remarking the same thing... so I went to check and it was on the correct way. 

48 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

That Teflon tape makes me nervous.   Make sure non is over the end of the male threads.

 

I know. I didn't want to use sealant either for the same reason tho. The reason you can see so much of the tape is because I didn't put any on near the bottom of the threads and keep it seated more towards the outside, thus the reason why it shows so much. I was careful with it, as I've heard the warnings in the past. 

[mikeeyre74 289]

So, it's been a while, but I managed get the hydro unit attached to the transmission today and then slapped a filter on it and filler her up with fluid.. 

 

 

I stuck the pulley on there and then then turned it the correct direction with an electric drill with a socket on the end from the pulley and it looks like a successful bench test. Things turned and twisted and forward and reverse all seemed to work as they're supposed to. No load on it, of course, but it's a good step in the right direction I guess.  Thanks for help with this, fellows!

 

Mike

[pfrederi 17,895]

Sounds like a victory!!!!