702 Refresh

[HokieAg07 129]

Time to accomplish a few things on this 702 I picked up this year. I was only planning on repairing the cracked trans mount, rebuilding the HY-2, and a few other minor tasks but after getting the tractor into pieces, Im wondering if I should just go ahead and do it up right and repaint the entire tractor! The patina of the tins is very attractive to me though so I am not sure what I want to do....

 

Hitch pin stuck in the trans so off to work tomorrow to use the press; wheel hubs came off without fuss, thankfully. Steering wheel was buggered up beyond repair with all 3 spokes having been broken so a quick cut with a sawzall and then use of a puller and it came off quick. New wheel for a Cub that is very similar is awaiting. 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 21, 2016 by HokieAg07

[AMC RULES 37,141]

Cool  there...  

maybe refresh everything except the tins. 

Easy enough to do later.   

[ACman 7,624]

... Cool tractor whatever you end up doing  .

 

Is that a K5 Blazer sitting there ... square body Chevy's/GMC's are one of my favorite trucks.

[HokieAg07 129]

1 hour ago, ACman said:

... Cool tractor whatever you end up doing  .

 

Is that a K5 Blazer sitting there ... square body Chevy's/GMC's are one of my favorite trucks.

Sure is! Im a GM nut myself. 

 

88 K5 with 3/4 axles and a 330 HP Vortec head crate and TH400 

 

 

[ACman 7,624]

 

 

2 hours ago, HokieAg07 said:

Sure is! Im a GM nut myself. 

 

88 K5 with 3/4 axles and a 330 HP Vortec head crate and TH400 

 

 

 

 

 COOL ! BLAZER 

My older brother always had Blazers , lots of good memories . I have a 84 C10 short bed N.C. Truck . No rust of any kind in the cab but the bed is whole different story . Not only it was used as a truck but it had a bed liner and trapped water and pine needles under it   . Someday I'll find a rustfree bed for it and put it back together for my  Horse hauler . I too am a GM nut . My first car was a 67  Chevelle (I was 14), sure wish I had that one back  !

[Ken B 3,164]

I personally would probably leave the 702 cosmetically as it is however its yours to do as you like. It would look nice whatever you decide. She is pretty nice!

I used to own this Blazer about 13 yrs. ago.  It had 1 ton axles with 410's  and a 1971 454 in it with a solid 425 horse power. It sounded pretty sweet with the headers and Flow Master 44's. With the tires it had on it in the pic it would smoke the tires easily and it got up and boogied. When I put the 44's on it you needed all the torque out of that big block believe me. Me and my wife loved going off road with it, It was a hell of a lot of fun off road that is for sure... I often wish I still had it, my son Cole would love it in the mud.  Nice Blazer you have there.

Edited December 21, 2016 by Ken B

[WHX?? 49,485]

 here now that we are talking about show vintage Blazers with beefed up old school v-8's but I kinda like the patina on that 702 the way it is .....cept for the hy-2 and the original headlights... I better come get them

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,358]

Not to steal the thread , How about a 1963 Chevy Impala SS , 327 cu in producing about 350 hp when I finished messing with it ( I was 18). Numerous GM / Chevys over the years , currently have a 1984 EL Camino SS Choo Choo. 155 hp. Matching numbers car.  

[HokieAg07 129]

Back on topic! I got the hitch pin out today after the use of a ball joint press working the pin back and forth until it really started to move. Unfortunately, once it picked up speed I heard a pop and looked to see I had cracked the casting. What are the realistic options for repair? If I dont plan to pull anything other than a cart or wagon should I even worry about it? Of course if I had split the trans open and seen a disaster inside I wouldnt think twice about finding a replacement but...the insides look great, at least to me. Pictures below for review and thoughts. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[953 nut 56,159]

        Very nice little round hood.  The inside of that trans. looks great.         

Hope @TIGman will join in on this thread, he is a very accomplished welder and can give you the right answers.

[JAinVA 4,629]

Chris,

    You could vee out the crack and use Ny-rod to repair it.Over the years I have repaired many cast iron parts this way.I have a Racine Junior power hacksaw that I tipped over and it broke several castings on it.I almost cried,then broke out the Ny-rod.This relic was patented in 1916 and looks and works  like new after the repairs.Luck,JAinVA

[953 nut 56,159]

7 hours ago, JAinVA said:

use Ny-rod to repair it

      I did a Google search for Ny-rod and found nothing. Can you give us a little more information please.   

[Sarge 3,464]

There are two basic categories of high nickel welding rods used to repair castings in addition to all the specialty rods with added alloys to improve the weld properties over the years for various special work . Right now , best I've seen is the EZ Weld tig rod that a local shop next to me has been using - I liked it so much I bought a pound to use here for myself . When I modified the D's front axle/steering I wanted to speed up and shorten it's turning radius - the bell crank on that tractor is cast so I had to weld the hole shut and move it over . Rod did a great job and the stuff flows in like it should . I did inadvertently cause a hard nickel/carbon deposit in one spot and found it when I went to drill the new hole - a solid carbide bit solved that and it's in service . Nice part is the big D turns a lot sharper now .

 

A good shop can repair it easily enough . You'll be lucky if the other half doesn't have a micro crack running into the housing that will show up once the part is heated - it's common and cast iron likes to hide it's sins too . It's too bad they cast that housing so thin since that hitch can handle some pretty serious weight with an added tombstone weight up front .

 

Sarge

[JAinVA 4,629]

 Chris,

    You could vee out the crack and use Ny-rod to repair it.Over the years I have repaired many cast iron parts this way.I have a Racine Junior power hacksaw that I tipped over and it broke several castings on it.I almost cried,then broke out the Ny-rod.This relic was patented in 1916 and looks and works  like new after the repairs.Luck,JAinVA

Sorry guys I misspelled the term.I should have typed Ni-rod.It is basically a nickel alloy based filler material.It comes in mig wire as well as stick forms.I use the stick version.I know that Lincoln sells it as well as other welding suppliers.The Lincoln rod is sold under the name Tech-rod 99 or 55 denoting the percentage of nickel  in the rod.There are several You-tube videos on its application.Hope this helps,and sorry for the confusion.JAinVA

Edited December 22, 2016 by JAinVA

[WHX?? 49,485]

Looks like somebody's been shifting "on the fly"! Other than that doesn't appear to be too bad......no presence of water at least. Lowell @wheelhorseman1000 does offer that 3rd gear I believe as well as the 1533's if needed.

Sorry to hear about the misfortune with the case but a good cast welder should be able to fix that up if your just going to pull tubs  or donor cases should be available. You could have the cases magna fluxed to see if other hidden cracks show up but that might not be worth the expense.

[ACman 7,624]

  A good welder and some nickel rod will work , but there's always brazing too . I remember from metal shop our shop teacher would break a piece or cast iron and we would have to braze it back together with flux covered rod . He would then break it again . If it broke on the repair you failed (believe he'd try his hardest) anywhere else you passed . Just another option . Also keep in mind what others have said and you own common sense . Keep us updated ... you know    Always keep us coming back !

[TIGman 2,006]

JAinVA is correct on the Ni-rod for cast iron. 

Here's a copy of the portion of a wall chart I have from Eureka Welding Alloys, Madison Heights,MI

They have a TIG rod which is 99% nickel . The rod I have in the shop is 5545ni

Copper 55%, 45% nickel 

Good luck, sometimes cast iron can be a bugger....... 

 

[Sarge 3,464]

For those that run tig welders - need to try this stuff >

http://ezweldtigwire.com/about-ez-weld-tig-wire/

 

The nickel rods always leave something to be desired , either in color match - further cracking from chasing heat stress or cracking along the weld and requiring a lot of hammer work while hot . EZ Weld solves all that , has an excellent color match and so far has proved superior in strength . It's also works wonders on crazy dissimilar metals and will even work with steel alloys against copper - read , building contact plates/grounding lugs ....I love it . The shop next to me has repaired some very thin castings on irreplaceable antique stuff and once cleaned up you nearly can't find the repair - I'm impressed . He's only running an old Lincoln Deltaweld 300 and scratch-start tig with awesome results...> a bit jealous .

 

Sarge

[HokieAg07 129]

Yes, I am confident the casting can be repaired well enough to suit my needs, I appreciate all the insight on the topic. Im glad the inside of the transaxle is in relatively good shape, just needs seals and new outer axle needle bearings. 

 

Nothing exciting for now, just cleaning parts and removing all the grime as the first step to paint prep. The only real metal work this tractor needs is the bottom of the hood and the belt guard. Can anyone share a picture of what the bottom of this hood type is supposed to look like? Is the mounting bracket supposed to be welded or bolted to the hood? As far as the belt guard, there is a small piece broken and missing from the bottom lip and I am wondering if this area is supposed to be flat like the rest of the lip or raised to help stop the belt during clutch disengagement. 

[Lane Ranger 11,026]

A welder friend told me to save old rings from motors to use for wleding rod on special projects like this!

 

[HokieAg07 129]

Yes, I am confident the casting can be repaired well enough to suit my needs, I appreciate all the insight on the topic, I am going to try brazing the cracks. Im glad the inside of the transaxle is in relatively good shape, just needs seals and new outer axle needle bearings. 

 

I dropped the hood, belt guard, frame, and steering wheel and shaft off to a buddy at the fab shop today to have all metal repair work done. 

 

I have decided to keep the patina look on the tins. The wheels will be blasted and painted along with engine tins and transmission. I would think painting the frame and front axle would make things look a bit too strange. What say everyone else?

 

Clutch / brake rod - is it supposed to have any slight bends in it? If not, what models / years would share this same rod so I can source a replacement?

[ACman 7,624]

On 12/29/2016 at 9:52 PM, HokieAg07 said:

 

 

I have decided to keep the patina look on the tins. The wheels will be blasted and painted along with engine tins and transmission. I would think painting the frame and front axle would make things look a bit too strange. What say everyone else?

 

Clutch / brake rod - is it supposed to have any slight bends in it? If not, what models / years would share this same rod so I can source a replacement?

 

Sounds like a good plan to me , and check out the photo gallery you may find something in there you like .

 

And yes it does have a slight bend in the rod  .