pfrederi 17,902 #1 Posted December 11, 2016 Pick up a rolling frame Commando 8 a long time ago and she has been sitting in the barn until last month. Based on looks I anticipated problems in Tranny land. Opened her up today and looked like new. New case gasket and seals and she is going back together. I had planned on full tear down, press out all the bearings and sand blast the case...not now. Any ideas how to clean up the outside of the case without getting water or sand into the tranny???. 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,134 #2 Posted December 11, 2016 Simple grinder & wire wheel cleaned this one up nicely. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,902 #3 Posted December 11, 2016 Craig...you can stop by anytime to clean up my tranny and paint it. Yours looks gorgeous. I do not have the patience for body work/painting. i just do enough to keep it from rusting 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ztnoo 2,298 #4 Posted December 11, 2016 If you had it torn down, I would recommend vapor blasting. It strips and polishes nicely. Not at all abrasive, but gets the paint, crud,and crap off quickly. Does a fabulous job on motorcycle engine cases, for example. But since you want to stay away from water, here's something to consider. I recently saw a tool Eastwood has come up with to strip metal. I thought I looked pretty neat........especially for moderate to large size areas. Might be worth considering. Christmas is coming up soon........ Eastwood Contour SCT™ - Surface Conditioning Tool http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-sct.html?SRCCODE=1EM4410&trk_msg=H0E4UVHVLGM4BAII6UFB4TKASK&trk_contact=R8NMFIS9N4HSMNKFB7C7UQ0GVK&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=http%3a%2f%2fwww.eastwood.com%2feastwood-contour-sct.html%3fSRCCODE%3d1EM4410&utm_campaign=1EM4410&utm_content=1EM4410 Videos available at the above link. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,134 #5 Posted December 11, 2016 I can assure you Paul... this one won't be rusting anytime soon. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
classicdmax 190 #6 Posted December 11, 2016 soda blasting might be a good alternative to abrasives Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,398 #7 Posted December 11, 2016 Or like AMC said, just use a grinder with a wire wheel then a good primer and paint. I would replace the seals just because of age. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,191 #8 Posted December 12, 2016 I had a three piece the same way Paul... really knarley looking on the outside but when opened no water and clean as the day it was built. Never judge a book by it's cover holds true. Your 1533's look real reusable . ... now that @wheelhorseman1000 has them...if he didn't they would be shot! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,134 #9 Posted December 12, 2016 BTW, those angle grinders... work really great on frames too. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"D"- Man 827 #10 Posted December 12, 2016 I have recently found out that it may be an unpleasant surprise awaiting, upon opening a used tranny. This is the result of overboring a 5/16" end cap to accommodate the 3/8" bolts. These are from one of my D-180's. It's better to get the ring gear and end caps with the larger holes/bolts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,444 #11 Posted December 12, 2016 13 hours ago, ztnoo said: If you had it torn down, I would recommend vapor blasting. It strips and polishes nicely. Not at all abrasive, but gets the paint, crud,and crap off quickly. Does a fabulous job on motorcycle engine cases, for example. But since you want to stay away from water, here's something to consider. I recently saw a tool Eastwood has come up with to strip metal. I thought I looked pretty neat........especially for moderate to large size areas. Might be worth considering. Christmas is coming up soon........ Eastwood Contour SCT™ - Surface Conditioning Tool http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-sct.html?SRCCODE=1EM4410&trk_msg=H0E4UVHVLGM4BAII6UFB4TKASK&trk_contact=R8NMFIS9N4HSMNKFB7C7UQ0GVK&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=http%3a%2f%2fwww.eastwood.com%2feastwood-contour-sct.html%3fSRCCODE%3d1EM4410&utm_campaign=1EM4410&utm_content=1EM4410 Videos available at the above link. Lowes sells a similar tool in their Porter Cable line; https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABLE-Restorer-3-5-Amp-Sander/1000127763 I like to use a needle scaler from Harbor Freight. Works fast. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ztnoo 2,298 #12 Posted December 12, 2016 (edited) I checked out the "scaler" from HF. Looks like there is one smaller model which has very modest air delivery requirements, and the two larger scalers which require 10cfm @ 90# to operate. The latter two means you have to have a pretty beefy compressor to use the tool that much continually. I'll be damned if I can tell the difference between the larger two tools....specs seem the same, but have different SKU #s http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=scaler Which one do you use squonk? Edited December 12, 2016 by ztnoo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,463 #13 Posted December 12, 2016 I picked up one of these from TSC for use on screw-on head equipped air hammers with .401 shank - https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-Needle-Scaler-Attachment/dp/B00KS6GR8A Haven't tried it yet , ran out of weather . If I really need to get into something that deep , most times just get the blasting pot out and do it right . Sarge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites