Belt Size Snow Thrower 300 series

[ihsig@sbcglobal.net 0]

What size belt does this snow thrower need?  Belt that it came with is too big.  Tractor is 308-8

[Ed Kennell 39,300]

Not sure what that large black pulley is for.   Both tensioning pulleys should ride on the bottom non-drive loop of the belt.

Edited December 3, 2016 by Ed Kennell

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,146]

Drive belt should be 5/8" x 69" when used on the 300-Series tractors.

 

Garry

[ihsig@sbcglobal.net 0]

2 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Drive belt should be 5/8" x 69" when used on the 300-Series tractors.

 

Garry

Thank you!

3 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Not sure what that large black pulley is for.   Both tensioning pulleys should ride on the bottom non-drive loop of the belt.

 

Original owner installed second pulley to give belt more tension.

[Ed Kennell 39,300]

If you are looping the belt around the three idler/tension pulleys as shown in your first picture, the original designed belt will not work. In fact no belt would work properly.

The top loop is the drive loop and no spring loaded idlers can be in the drive loop as the idler will continually vibrate and shake as the load changes on the blower auger.

The belt Garry recommended will work only if you install it as designed in my picture.

 

[wallfish 17,133]

1 hour ago, ihsig@sbcglobal.net said:

Original owner installed second pulley to give belt more tension.

Probably because he didn't have the belt routed properly through the 2 idler tension pulleys or he had the wrong length belt.

Remove that extra pulley and route the belt as Ed describes and as shown in his pic. If for some reason more tension is needed, then add a new spring to the tension idler pulleys. Doubt that will be needed.

Looks like Ed can use a new belt too from looking at that pic.

Edited December 3, 2016 by wallfish

[Ed Kennell 39,300]

I hear ya John.   That belt was replaced actually with a I" shorter than designed belt.    If you look close ,I replaced the blower drive pulley with a  1" smaller pulley to speed up the auger.

And a side benefit was, I can now replace belts w/o loosening the jack shaft bearing block.

Here is the current setup with the shorter belt for the smaller pulley.     IMO, this is about the best position for the idlers to be in to achieve max spring tension.

[ihsig@sbcglobal.net 0]

19 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Drive belt should be 5/8" x 69" when used on the 300-Series tractors.

 

Garry

Would you happen to know a part #? 

[ihsig@sbcglobal.net 0]

13 minutes ago, ihsig@sbcglobal.net said:

Would you happen to know a part #? 

Found it.  pretty sure it's 9750. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,146]

Drive belt for the C-Series except C-195, plus 300, 400 and 500-Series Toro # 9750 (5L x 69" or 5/8" x 69")

If you get an aftermarket belt make sure you get one designed to travel over a flat idler pulley. That process reverse flexes the belt and a standard belt will crack. The Gates green belts available from Napa is one that works well.

 

Garry

[wallfish 17,133]

1 hour ago, ihsig@sbcglobal.net said:

Found it.  pretty sure it's 9750.

 

Think those OEM belts go for about $40+. I've had good luck using the blue Kevlar belts from TSC

 

 

14 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

I hear ya John.   That belt was replaced actually with a I" shorter than designed belt.    If you look close ,I replaced the blower drive pulley with a  1" smaller pulley to speed up the auger.

 

Figured you just used an inventory pic to post for illustration purposes but you know how the eagle eye members here have to pick out every little thing in every pic.

How do you like the performance of the blower with the smaller pulley? Does it make much of a difference?

[Ed Kennell 39,300]

Hey John, the main reason I changed the blower pulley was to keep the blower at design RPM.    I know everyone recommends operating the engines at WOT, but I have found from running outboards that  most engines have a couple sweet spots where the operate with less noise and vibration.    My ONANs is at 3150, so that is where I run it at and the smaller pulley turns the blower at design speed.  And If I really get in some tough snow, I can still bump it up to 3600.    Although I have never run out of power with the Onan at 3150.

 

Totally agree on the TSC belts for ~ 20bucks.

Edited December 4, 2016 by Ed Kennell

[Lee1977 6,887]

On 12/4/2016 at 2:23 PM, Ed Kennell said:

Hey John, the main reason I changed the blower pulley was to keep the blower at design RPM.    I know everyone recommends operating the engines at WOT, but I have found from running outboards that  most engines have a couple sweet spots where the operate with less noise and vibration.    My ONANs is at 3150, so that is where I run it at and the smaller pulley turns the blower at design speed.  And If I really get in some tough snow, I can still bump it up to 3600.    Although I have never run out of power with the Onan at 3150.

 

Totally agree on the TSC belts for ~ 20bucks.

Torque drops off as it reaches full speed, you are still at or close to peak torque at the 3150 RPM. I run my 520 at 3000 to 3200 mowing.

[peter lena 8,894]

@ihsig@sbcglobal.net  in addition to the correct belt , glairing  to me is the , flat idler belt pulley , do a re grease on that, the side grease shields , can be easily removed with a small  flat putty knife . wipe out and carb cleaner flush ,flash point grease refill 550, the easier it moves , the quicker it goes . 2 other  details , that pulley frame , should be greased at connection point , not rusty / binding , another thing , its easy to add a heavier pull spring , ensuring engagement , also chain/ cable lube that auger chain , 1/2" deflection at unsupported  point . also lubricate the chute base , and related side worm gear , typically attachments , are neglected , rusty / binding , get after every , intended movement point , make the rust run out !  only suggestions , BTW  my attachment's , move by hand from the PTO  DRIVE BELT to attachment .  Pete