Here Goes the 856

[Texas Todd 1,025]

I picked up an 856 out in Sweetwater TX a few weeks ago and pushed it on the operating table.

What I knew of it is what you see here. Have no idea if the engine is good or not. Drained the engine oil and it looked pretty good. For all the sand under the blower housing and trash in the toolbox and shifter area, I didn't have much hope for the condition of the trans oil.  In looking at the transaxle, I really figured the tran oil would be pancake batter.

It appears the leaking seal is on the brake shaft. The right side looks pretty good.  Interesting replacement for the belt guard. We will see if it functional.

The oil in the transmission looked brand new. Not the least bit of water from what I could tell. That was encouraging. I got every drop out that I could.

The key switch looked like it was off a 1969 Impala or something. I replaced with a spare WH key switch and started troubleshooting.  It was missing the coil so I took a spare. Also replaced the points and spark plug. The condenser was good.

I was getting spark, but no fuel, It would fire with starting fluid. Removed the carburetor. P-U that varnish stinks. Dunked in Chem-Dip for about 20 minutes and blew it out. I need to find a gas tank for it, but used a small tank I have to see what I could get.  She fired and ran fantastic. Messed with the carb adjustments (not my strong suit) but got it running good enough to not worry about the engine.

Next will be the transmission seals....and then I have to decide what I want to do with paint. Restore like the others or sand and clear coat as is.  I have some time to think about as the next few weeks will be busy with other things.

If anyone has a tank or belt cover, please let me know.  I actually would prefer to put a plastic tank rather than the original metal, but let me know what you might have.

I fiddled with getting the "Art Work" off with goo gone and it cam off for the most part.

How well do these 8 hp engines push a 42" front plow blade? We don't have much in the way of snow, but I could push some dirt around at my land....

Will the standard 42" plow fit on these short frames? 

 

 

 

 

[stevasaurus 22,713]

That is a very nice short frame, and I like how you got all the oil out of the transmission.  The brake shaft seal is SKF 7410 and is easy to replace with the tranny in place.

   You will not have any trouble pushing snow or dirt around with that horse...you might need the solid lift link to move dirt (for down pressure).  You definitely need the drive belt guard to be able to shift the tranny with out grinding gears.  The newer style snow blade will work if it has the double set of attachment holes in the frame at the back end...the short. older "A" frame is what goes on there. 

[Texas Todd 1,025]

Thanks Steve. I am guessing his mod on the idler pulley with the brake shoe serves the same purpose, but I have yet to take it for a spin. I have @gtguy looking for the guard and a gas tank in his collection.

Is this the solid link? Also do I just make a 3/4 rod to put through the second set of holes? I have 2 plows but neither had an extra rod. I also have the lift handle for the second one.

 

[Texas Todd 1,025]

Can anyone tell me if a plastic gas tank for a C-120 will fit in the space? I am only worried about the height. It appears I have right at 6" clearance between the tank tray bottom and the hood.

[stevasaurus 22,713]

On the blade I have, the rod can come out (hairpins).  Sure, just buy a piece of rod and cut it long enough to catch your attachamatic lock arms.  I think they catch on the outside of the channel on a short frame.  I am not sure about that lift link, you may have to make one for that blade to fit your 856 because that blade is really designed for the long frame.  You can use a piece of chain between the blade frame and lift lever to get you through the winter. 

   Not sure how that modification would work.  Hope you can find a guard. 

[Texas Todd 1,025]

Thanks Steve-O. I will get it figured out. I think I have learned that the plastic tank for the C-120 should fit under the hood as well. Sounds like the tray and clearances are the same. I won't be able to get a lot done on this one for a few weeks. Work is getting in the way, but it pays for the addiction!!

 

Get your engine bored out Steve?

[Texas Todd 1,025]

I wet sanded a corner of the hood and shot some rattle can clear ( yes, too cold and I got a sag in the clear) just to see what it would look like.  Contemplating doing the entire tractor like this.  Does this preserve the rusting just like taking it down to metal, priming and painting does? I kind of like the look, but if it doesn't really preserve the metal, I probably won't do it.

[953 nut 55,155]

28 minutes ago, Texas Todd said:

Does this preserve the rusting just like taking it down to metal, priming and painting does?

Well, yes and no.   The clear coat or anything that prevents oxygen from reaching the steel will keep it from rusting. Unfortunately the clear probably won't have a good adhesion to the rust, but it will probably last a long time if it stays indoors.

[Texas Todd 1,025]

5 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Well, yes and no.   The clear coat or anything that prevents oxygen from reaching the steel will keep it from rusting. Unfortunately the clear probably won't have a good adhesion to the rust, but it will probably last a long time if it stays indoors.

Okay. Good to know. It should be spending the next chapter of its life indoors. is one clear better than the next? Rattle can over buying a quart and shooting through HVLP?

[953 nut 55,155]

A good urethane enamel with a catalyzed hardener would be way better than the best rattle can; may be able to get it in flat or satin too.

[Texas Todd 1,025]

3 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

A good urethane enamel with a catalyzed hardener would be way better than the best rattle can; may be able to get it in flat or satin too.

Okay. Help me out with a brand name. I'm a rustoleum guy.... I have used the Valspar hardener with it. That the same or is catalyzed hardener something different?

[953 nut 55,155]

7 minutes ago, Texas Todd said:

Valspar hardener with it. That the same

Same thing!  You could go to NAPA or any auto finisher supply house or Sherwin Williams as examples of places that carry these products.

[Texas Todd 1,025]

Okay. Sounds good. Thanks much!

[Texas Todd 1,025]

Well I've been either too busy or it's been to cold to have any progress.  28 one day and 70 the a couple days later...Texas weather. I got to tearing it down and came across the realization that if I am going to go to this much trouble, it's gonna look like a diamond in a goats rear when I finish, so it's going to get the full ticket. Tear down complete, now to deal with the interesting issues found.

The axle pin was like none on any of my other 's. I suspect it was homemade and not very well. When I removed the nuts holding the plate on, the plate essentially plopped off in my hand.

 

Not sure why someone thought this was a good fix, but I guess it lasted til now. Kind of like the fix for the missing belt cover. Actually, that appears to do the job, but I am still on the prowl for a belt cover. As you can see the mounting tab is broken off of the frame.

It appears that all of the axle pins are the same, a Wheel Horse 6216. I found a few on ebay, so that shouldn't be a big issue.

Well back to the shop while its still warm...

 

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,330]

Keep plugging away. It looks like she is in good hands. 

[Texas Todd 1,025]

I'm not sure when I will get a day this nice again....Got quite a bit done today. I'm not sure what kind of paint the previous owner put on the hood but it came off like concrete. Underneath the hood came right off with a flap disk and wire wheel. But eventually got it off and primed. That makes one clean piece to look at....

Thought I would pop the tires off...HAH! Man there was some kind of nasty in those hard tires. The first clue was the red juice bleeding out of the tube.

Then I had to cut the valve stem off and the guts came out....Man that was gross. Felt like I was gutting a pig.

 

I am going to have my hands full bringing back those rims.  Years of sitting in their with moisture took it's toll.

Why anyone would put slime or anything else in a tire is beyond me. If they see what it turns into, they wouldn't do it. Slime turns into brown dog doo, but at least it doesn't stink like it.

I've used it in a pinch but then got it out as soon as I could. Stuff is nasty!

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

Where I live we have lots of honey/thorny locust. You can't keep tires aired up without running green slime. Yes its nasty but very happy to have that option. 

 

 

 

 

 

Randy

[Texas Todd 1,025]

45 minutes ago, RandyLittrell said:

Where I live we have lots of honey/thorny locust. You can't keep tires aired up without running green slime. Yes its nasty but very happy to have that option. 

Randy

Well that's a good point. No pun intended. Honey 

Locust is equally as evil.

Edited December 12, 2016 by Texas Todd

[Texas Todd 1,025]

Got a little bit done today. Frame and Seat pan are primed.

I need some assistance. I ordered an axle pin, but it's not long enough to do the job. I guess the PO customized more than I thought. The axle pivot pin in the picture above is 3.5" long. As you can see below, I need one that's 4-1/8" long. I am hoping I don't have to fab something up and that all picot pins aren't the same. If someone could tell me the length of the axle pin on a short frame it would be appreciated.  If there isn't one that's 4-1/8" long , I guess I will have to fab something up.  I do have the hitch pin, that I won't be re-using, so at least I have the bar stock to work with if I must. The left side is the rear of the axle and it looks like a collar was added, I am not sure.  Maybe the front as well. Thanks for any help you can give.

 

On a side note, I found a plastic tank on eBay. The height was fine but the outlet isn't in the same spot. The metal tank is off center and the plastic is dead center. I had to locate and drill a 1" hole, along with a slot to allow the valve to clear, for the tank to sit down enough for the hood clearance.

Edited December 16, 2016 by Texas Todd

[Texas Todd 1,025]

Well, the axle pin mystery is solved. Once I got to looking at it, the PO had welded two collars on the frame for some reason. He also made an axle pin that mounted from the front, which I photographed early in the thread.  An angle grinder removed the collars and some touch up welding got me back to using a stock pivot pin.

Having better weather than some of you. I now have all the big bits cleaned and primed. The rest should fit in my sandblast cabinet.  

Shaping up over this pic.

The wheels were awful. Took 3 hours with a grinding wheel to prep. Two of the rims had holes through them.  Not sure if my welding skills fixed them or not. May end up having to tube the tires. I don't think I've ever had to deal with nasty crust like that, til now.  Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny and 62 so I may be able to knock out the rest and be ready for paint! 

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

Just an fyi which you may already know, different color primers may make your topcoat different colors if you don't put a sealer over the whole tractor. You look like your doing a great job!! Look forward to the end result! 

 

 

 

 

Randy

[Texas Todd 1,025]

No I didnt know that. I put the rusty metal over the rusty pits and self etching on the clean metal. I think I have done it before on some pieces and didnt notice.  At least the rubber will cover it on the wheels. Thanks.

[Texas Todd 1,025]

On 11/28/2016 at 11:14 AM, stevasaurus said:

That is a very nice short frame, and I like how you got all the oil out of the transmission.  The brake shaft seal is SKF 7410 and is easy to replace with the tranny in place.

   You will not have any trouble pushing snow or dirt around with that horse...you might need the solid lift link to move dirt (for down pressure).  You definitely need the drive belt guard to be able to shift the tranny with out grinding gears.  The newer style snow blade will work if it has the double set of attachment holes in the frame at the back end...the short. older "A" frame is what goes on there. 

@stevasaurus I am looking up the seal number and it looks like a 9815 to me. The 7410 looks to be about 3/4" and the 9815 is about 1".  Just want to make sure I get the right one.

Thanks!

[stevasaurus 22,713]

Hi Todd...that horse has come a long way...looks great!!    We are thinking you have a #5053 transmission...

Axle seals...SKF 9815...1" ID

Brake shaft seal is the same...my mistake above...SKF 9815

the input shaft is the SKF 7410...3/4" ID

[Texas Todd 1,025]

1 hour ago, stevasaurus said:

Hi Todd...that horse has come a long way...looks great!!    We are thinking you have a #5053 transmission...

Axle seals...SKF 9815...1" ID

Brake shaft seal is the same...my mistake above...SKF 9815

the input shaft is the SKF 7410...3/4" ID

Thank you sir! Yes, it's a 5053. I appreciate it. Hoping to have some updated pics with red color in the next day or two!