Duramax7man7 506 #1 Posted November 18, 2016 Anyone ever made one of these that works with wheel horses? I'm looking for an alternative to wheel weights... Don't want to scuff up my new paint. Any and all input welcome! Andrew C. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt-NEPA 755 #2 Posted November 18, 2016 I need some ballast weight to counter a two stage blower on my 520H. I have 2X70lbs wheel weights, but that was not enough. So I welded up a hitch with 2" sq. receiver. Inserted a hitch upside down. Added a piece of 1" all-thread. Then stacked up some Wally World cheapie 25 lb. barbell weights. Now I have over 125 lbs hanging out back. I'm not sure this is what you had in mind, but its what I've done. 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #3 Posted November 18, 2016 Yep, that's exactly what I would consider. SO I could get one of those and a hitch and do the same thing. I like it. Thanks for the idea! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt-NEPA 755 #4 Posted November 18, 2016 Check Rupprechts Welding and Fab "The Hitch Guys" in the vendors section of Red Square. He sells a very nice receiver (hitch). The rest of my project came from Tractor Supply and Wally World. Kurt 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fast88pu 3,324 #5 Posted November 18, 2016 Tom's hitches are made top notch. I have three of them lol. Very nice guy to talk with too 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,663 #6 Posted November 19, 2016 (edited) Putting weight out there increases the load on your axle bearings. wheel weights do not. Sorry but scratching wheel paint versus wear on axle bearings... not big decision for my working tractors. Edited November 19, 2016 by pfrederi 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #7 Posted November 19, 2016 Ah good point pFrederi... Now long does it take to wear I guess is the question. This would only be something done only during the winter months and not every day... Wasn't even looking about that that. I've seen others fill their tires with a liquid... Doesn't seem like a good idea unless maybe it's an anti corrosive? What do you think about that? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shallowwatersailor 3,213 #8 Posted November 19, 2016 I admit to using both wheel weights and suitcase weights. Although it has been said that weight hanging off the rear will wear the bearings and seals, wheel weights will cause wear on the hubs and axles. The rotational mass tries to continue rotating so it is left to the hub screws and key in the keyway to stop. The screws come loose and the key eats away at the keyway cut in the axle. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #9 Posted November 19, 2016 I did this with mine 3 42# suitcase weights,it's based on the Bercomac factory rear weight hitch for the Wheel Horse, and I also made a bracket for the weights to hang off the front for use with the tiller or other clevis hitch attachments,Jeff. 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #10 Posted November 19, 2016 So maybe I should start a Poll..... What say you? Wheel Weights or Axle Ballast weights? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #11 Posted November 19, 2016 2 minutes ago, Mastiffman said: So maybe I should start a Poll..... What say you? Wheel Weights or Axle Ballast weights? Be careful that "debate" has been done before on here ...Jeff. BTW I run fluid (RV antifreeze) filled tires with 75# cast iron weights and the 120+# rear hanging... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #12 Posted November 19, 2016 Ha ha... Question. So how long has it been since running this setup and how often have you had to replace either axle keys or axle seals and bearings? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #13 Posted November 19, 2016 The fluid filled tires since new in '98 18 years ,then the wheel weights somewhere between 5-7 years ago and the rear hanging last year after the 2stage acquisition, with that being said (knock on wood) haven't replaced an axle key/hub/bearings or seal as of yet 755 hrs later,but I did notice the left rear weeping yesterday when I had to tug the plow 520 out of the muck, Jeff. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,021 #14 Posted November 19, 2016 1 hour ago, Mastiffman said: So maybe I should start a Poll..... What say you? Wheel Weights or Axle Ballast weights? BOTH 7 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,302 #15 Posted November 19, 2016 I have a Kwik-Way weight box attached to the square axle housings and the tow hitch. I now have a cracked left transaxle case. The crack is at the rear midway between the case bolts. I am blaming it on the extreme leverage from the 100lb weight carried at some distance from the case. After repair, there will be little or no weight used behind my tractors. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #16 Posted November 19, 2016 9 hours ago, lynnmor said: I have a Kwik-Way weight box attached to the square axle housings and the tow hitch. I now have a cracked left transaxle case. The crack is at the rear midway between the case bolts. I am blaming it on the extreme leverage from the 100lb weight carried at some distance from the case. After repair, there will be little or no weight used behind my tractors. I think you are the exception that scares us! Certainly lots of us are using weights but I suppose if we are often pushing everything to the max that it's reasonable to expect something to break every once in a while. Then again, they just don't work as well without some additional weight! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,983 #17 Posted November 19, 2016 Hanging 200 lbs should not a problem at all but it must be secured and braced properly. And even if it is a problem, IMO it's still better to not get stuck or slide around in the snow wasting time while freezing my nuts off. Fix it in warm weather and do it all over again. This tractor pictured carries more weight than others are attaching to theirs. Built in '08, trans swap in '09 because of a snapped axle when running 10.5 dualies but so far so good since then. Not sure of the total weight but guaranteed it's more than 200. Same philosophy applies with this one too. I'd rather dig a trench in 2 hours instead of using a shovel for 12 hours and not worry about a trans which can be swapped in less than 10 hours, if necessary. So if the tractor does it's job, let's say 10 different times, which equals 100 hours of hard labor saved to sacrifice a trans bearing, so be it. No brainer IMO. BUT, I enjoy working on the tractors too so that certainly plays a roll and realize this way of thinking might not fit everyone's situation. 10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #18 Posted December 17, 2016 How much Weight can be applied to the Stock Rear hitch of a 520h? The one with hole in the middle for the eye bolt? Is 100lbs to much? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #19 Posted December 17, 2016 55 minutes ago, Mastiffman said: How much Weight can be applied to the Stock Rear hitch of a 520h? The one with hole in the middle for the eye bolt? Is 100lbs to much? That's a good question, I don't know the answer. Some folks get a 2 inch receiver hitch made by Tom, one of the vendors here. It's pretty robust ,bolts to the rear, and has 2 rear legs for additional support. I had one made for my 520, then sold the 520. He is doing one for my 5xi. I don't have a picture handy. Will be waiting to see the replies you get, curious I am to. Glenn 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #20 Posted December 17, 2016 I actually have "The Hitch Guys" hitch coming the mail tonorrow hopefully but I have a snow storm in the process right now. So I went out and got a hitch insert, inverted and placed four 25lbs weights on it and secured it with a 10.5" long 7/8" threaded bolt with nuts and washer to lock it all together. I slipped the ball hitch (no ball though) over the 520 stoch hitch and mildly locked it in place with a hitch pin and downforce of the weights... Just hoping it will be okay for the day... Until my Actual Hitch comes via FedEx.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #21 Posted December 17, 2016 (edited) My Hitch Came in the middle of the night so I will be using fortunately be using that today! BUT I will still like to find out about the max tongue wight for the stock hitch if anyone knows. I'll look for it in my free time as well. Later. EDIT: Photos.... This was right after this mornings workout... Edited December 17, 2016 by Mastiffman 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moe1965 737 #22 Posted December 18, 2016 Thought I read that it was rated at 300 lbs. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moe1965 737 #23 Posted December 18, 2016 Thought I read that it was rated at 300 lbs. I made this out of scraps laying around. I know the car hitch Is mounted upside down but I wanted to get my hitch hight up off the ground a little. The basket holds a milk crate that I put my weight in. I am itching to plow this year this is my first horse I restored. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
classicdmax 190 #24 Posted December 18, 2016 I think I read somewhere that excessive weight on stock hitch applies unnecessary "point" force on the underside of transaxle which could lead to failure. I think some have added wider pieces of metal to hitch where it contacts the case to distribute the weight over a wider area. i too am waiting on one of toms hitches and think I may try 100# of lead for the additional weight. As I cannot disagree with remarks concerning added wear on seals and perhaps bearings, I don't think 100# is too excessive. I will however be sure to keep the weight as close to tractor as possible as well as ensure it is tightly secured as to not bounce around and cause any potential damage due to being loosely secured 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moe1965 737 #25 Posted December 18, 2016 (edited) I agree that the weight should be closed to the center of the axle. This is a quick fix for now I would like to replace it with wheel weights. I'm not an expert on weight and distribution of it. Just a thought or more so a question. How is the effect on bearings and bushings dragging single bottom plow through the dirt. The plow would be pulling down on the rear-end much like weight hanging on the rear-end . Edited December 18, 2016 by moe1965 Added info 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
