My new question of the day.

[Hacksawhero123 351]

I plan on having my mower deck blasted after I finish making repairs. Question is what is the best paint or coating for the underside? What about powder coating?  One of my customers is an industrial paint and powder coating operation. Thanks for your input. 

Mark. 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

I've found power coating to have 2 virtues, it can coat areas hard to cover otherwise and it meets current VOC restrictions.  I think it's popularity is mostly due to the latter and not because it is superior to high quality paint.  I find it chips and once it does rust is happy to get under it and grow.  Through the decades I've found Rustoleum 769 primer to be outstanding!  I have a heavy wheel barrow that was rather rusty over 20 years ago that was only wirebrushed and only primed with Rustoleum 769 and today it has still not rusted any further after sitting outside every day since!  Pretty good test I'd say!

 

There are other newer and higher tech primers and metal preps but all I did was wire brush and prime!  Rustoleum 769!

[JAinVA 4,629]

One of the big problems in powder coating Is surface prep.If not prepped correctly the coating will not bond well.It will be there and look good but if not prepped right will not stay and will peal off in sheets.The F350 you see in my avatar had the upper deck powder coated and within a year the sheets of paint came peeling off.The actual dump frame was primed and painted and still looked like new 8 years out.There are some who will disagree with my assessment but I have had little luck with powder coating.JAinVA 

[Don1977 604]

There may be a place where powder coating works. With my limited exposure to it I have found one. I think that the under side of a deck would be one of the worst places.

It's hard and brittle and any impact is going to brake it and cause it to rust.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

I wasn't as explicit as Don1977 but I 100% agree.  Of all the places that powder coat should NOT be used the underdeck would be at the top of the list.  I really think that powder coat was forced into the market because of VOC issues and then promoted as an improvement with new features.  I'm still waiting for the improvements.  For now I will pass.

[Racinbob 11,299]

I used POR 15 on my deck a couple years ago. It's holding up great and makes grass removal much easier.

[CasualObserver 3,409]

Search the forum for POR-15 topics and Slip Plate graphite paint. Both are viable options for undercoating.

[Sarge 3,464]

I've wanted to galvanize one for years - need to go visit an industrial place north of me and see if they will do small jobs . Once it's cured and "skin" develops it can be painted....

Sarge

[DennisThornton 4,769]

8 hours ago, Sarge said:

I've wanted to galvanize one for years - need to go visit an industrial place north of me and see if they will do small jobs . Once it's cured and "skin" develops it can be painted....

Sarge

I've used zinc rich primer but I've not been impressed...

 

For decades now I've intended to try POR products.  Gads I've got to do that while I might still have a decade or two to test it!

[Texas Todd 1,025]

On the advice of @squonk I wire brushed a 50 year old deck and sprayed with Loctite Extend Rust Neutralizer

Once cured, I sprayed with truck bed coating

It turned out great. It appears to be a durable solution.  Note: In order for the neutralizer to work, rust must be present. So if you take it down to bare metal, this isn't the solution for you.

 

[RedRanger 1,468]

I had my worker deck blasted and powder coated 2 seasons ago and it still looks new.  No chipping.  No peeling.  No scratching, even from scraping the underside of the deck a couple times now.

My powder coater also added teflon to the powder coat which helps with the grass sticking.  I personally disagree with all of you.

If prepped right, Can't beat powder coat.  Everything else wears off.

 

He says he's been powder coating decks for lawn care companies for the past 3+ years and they keep bringing their new equipment in.  They love it.

Edited November 11, 2016 by RedRanger

[WheelHorseNut 222]

@RedRanger I'm with you -- we have two powder coaters that we work with and it's an extremely durable coating method.  Very chip resistant.  It all depends on the type of coating you use.  I have chip books from several different suppliers and, just like paint,  they have different grades of coatings.  A transparent coating will scratch and chip easily while some of the matte finishes are very chip resistant and chemical resistant.  I have done a test on a few different finishes with acetone.  I have a matte black with a slight texture (I'm going to have them do my seat pan) that is not affected by acetone at all while I have a silver color that wipes right off with acetone.  It all depends on the finish.

 

The opaque yellow that you have on that deck looks great.

 

One of the coating companies we work with does the frames for a very well known kit car company -- they come out great.  You should see the line they go on -- very impressive!  It is a durable coating but there are variables involved.

 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

23 hours ago, HD-Horse said:

On the advice of @squonk I wire brushed a 50 year old deck and sprayed with Loctite Extend Rust Neutralizer

Once cured, I sprayed with truck bed coating

It turned out great. It appears to be a durable solution.  Note: In order for the neutralizer to work, rust must be present. So if you take it down to bare metal, this isn't the solution for you.

 

I've used similar "neutralizer"s but lost track of their long term performance.  Thanks for sharing!

3 hours ago, WheelHorseNut said:

@RedRanger I'm with you -- we have two powder coaters that we work with and it's an extremely durable coating method.  Very chip resistant.  It all depends on the type of coating you use.  I have chip books from several different suppliers and, just like paint,  they have different grades of coatings.  A transparent coating will scratch and chip easily while some of the matte finishes are very chip resistant and chemical resistant.  I have done a test on a few different finishes with acetone.  I have a matte black with a slight texture (I'm going to have them do my seat pan) that is not affected by acetone at all while I have a silver color that wipes right off with acetone.  It all depends on the finish.

 

The opaque yellow that you have on that deck looks great.

 

One of the coating companies we work with does the frames for a very well known kit car company -- they come out great.  You should see the line they go on -- very impressive!  It is a durable coating but there are variables involved.

 

I'm not qualified to bad mouth powder coat across the board.  I'm just not impressed with what I've seen.  I'm very surprised that some can be removed with acetone though!

[Sarge 3,464]

The galvanizing I'm leaning towards is the same bright appearance type used for guard rails , marine equipment and other industrial applications . It is not the extreme heat hot dip type as that would likely warp the snot out of a mower deck . If I had the cash , I'd rebuild my old Land Cruiser and have the whole thing dipped - it's already fairly common to see restorations with zinc dipped frames to prevent future rust issues . The stuff is self-healing and will not allow rust to form underneath , unlike any type of paint or powder coatings .

https://www.azz.com/

 

Sarge

[WheelHorseNut 222]

18 hours ago, DennisThornton said:

I've used similar "neutralizer"s but lost track of their long term performance.  Thanks for sharing!

I'm not qualified to bad mouth powder coat across the board.  I'm just not impressed with what I've seen.  I'm very surprised that some can be removed with acetone though!

 

Yeah, it's no substitute for a paint like finish -- you can't get it nearly as shiny (mirror like) as paint.  The closest I've seen to that is a polished finish (like a plated finish or a polished aluminum or stainless) with a translucent over it.  It gives you that reflective quality of paint. The only thing is, you can't match the color of a solid with that process.  So, while it looks awesome, it's not going to look like a solid paint or powder coat (colors are lighter, etc.).  I have some powder coated pieces at work that I'll snap some pics to show what I'm talking about.  I have some really good quality gloss black pieces that look great!

 

I'll snap a pic, of a powder coat that I can remove with acetone, on Monday.  It's very scratch and chip resistant, just not good with chemicals.  It's too bad, too, because it's a really nice color!

3 hours ago, Sarge said:

The galvanizing I'm leaning towards is the same bright appearance type used for guard rails , marine equipment and other industrial applications . It is not the extreme heat hot dip type as that would likely warp the snot out of a mower deck . If I had the cash , I'd rebuild my old Land Cruiser and have the whole thing dipped - it's already fairly common to see restorations with zinc dipped frames to prevent future rust issues . The stuff is self-healing and will not allow rust to form underneath , unlike any type of paint or powder coatings .

https://www.azz.com/

 

Sarge

What does that process run, price-wise, Sarge?

[DennisThornton 4,769]

On 11/11/2016 at 10:28 AM, RedRanger said:

I had my worker deck blasted and powder coated 2 seasons ago and it still looks new.  No chipping.  No peeling.  No scratching, even from scraping the underside of the deck a couple times now.

My powder coater also added teflon to the powder coat which helps with the grass sticking.  I personally disagree with all of you.

If prepped right, Can't beat powder coat.  Everything else wears off.

 

He says he's been powder coating decks for lawn care companies for the past 3+ years and they keep bringing their new equipment in.  They love it.

 

That what's so great about this forum.  My experience with powder coat has left me wanting, but your experience proves that it can be done well.

 

Might I ask what it cost you to refurb that fine looking deck?  The sandblasting and coating but separately priced perhaps?  And what prep was done after the sandblasting?

[Hacksawhero123 351]

It's going to be a while before I mess with the deck. I blasted mine with the pressure washer. It's scrap. 

Mark

[RedRanger 1,468]

16 hours ago, DennisThornton said:

That what's so great about this forum.  My experience with powder coat has left me wanting, but your experience proves that it can be done well.

 

Might I ask what it cost you to refurb that fine looking deck?  The sandblasting and coating but separately priced perhaps?  And what prep was done after the sandblasting?

I paid about $300 total but it's a 60" deck with a $1000 value.  All blasting and prep was included.  I do know the guy doing the powder coating said that just like paint, there are many qualities of powder and prep work means a lot.  I believe he blasts and then bakes off any oil residue in his oven, then cleans it again and then powder coats and bakes again.

[WheelHorseNut 222]

On 11/13/2016 at 10:38 AM, RedRanger said:

I paid about $300 total but it's a 60" deck with a $1000 value.  All blasting and prep was included.  I do know the guy doing the powder coating said that just like paint, there are many qualities of powder and prep work means a lot.  I believe he blasts and then bakes off any oil residue in his oven, then cleans it again and then powder coats and bakes again.

 

@RedRanger Yup -- that's basically how they do it.  Gotta get the oil and contaminants off.

@DennisThornton Dennis -- here are the pics of the powder coating I can remove with acetone.  It's a specialty coating, so I'm not totally shocked that it comes off.  I'm doing my seat pan in the very near future and I'll post pics on my restoration thread (Raider 10).  I'm doing a slightly textured matte black to match the original.

 

Before

After

[Sarge 3,464]

Not sure on galvanizing cost yet - manager is on vacation until early December . I'd imagine it won't be cheap for a small , one-off project .

Sarge