1968 Raider 10 Restoration

[WheelHorseNut 222]

Hey guys,

I've started the restoration of my 1968 Raider 10.  I originally found that they didn't make a Raider 10 in 1968 but through discussion with the experts here, we determined that my tractor was a 1968 that was badged a Raider 10 with the 10 HP Tecumseh.

Here's the starting point picture.

It was in better shape a few years ago but it was a slight casualty to hurricane Sandy.  Nothing is rusted through, thankfully.  It's unfortunate that it happened and I never expected it to get wet where it was.  We were at least a 1/4 mile from the water -- probably more -- but, I came to work (where it was stored) the following day and we had a garbage dumpster from the business across the street and a boat dock in out parking lot...It was insane and very unexpected.

Anyway, I've disassembled a bunch of it  and will e-tank the crap out of everything.

Edited November 8, 2016 by WheelHorseNut
Added link to my original Identifying post

[WHX?? 48,815]

Will be following this with interest 'Nut as I am currently doing a '67. Going to do the deck too?...looks to be and earlier one.

[WheelHorseNut 222]

It came with a deck, snow thrower, a rear blade (I think that's what it is - no numbers) and here are the pics.

The deck is in really good shape -- no rust through anywhere and it's very solid.  All of the wheels are there and work.

The snowblower/thrower is in great shape as well.  A little bit of surface rust but that's it.  The cable is there and properly installed so the chute works great.

The blade is a rear blade, I think.  There are no numbers on it so I can't really tell.  Any ideas?  Just a really small front blade?  I think I'm missing the mount for it.  It looks like it is a manual angle adjustment type of thing.

Thanks! 

 

11 minutes ago, WHX8 said:

Will be following this with interest 'Nut as I am currently doing a '67. Going to do the deck too?...looks to be and earlier one.

Sounds good!  I'll be sure to record this resto as best I can.  I'm going to clean it up and see what the deck looks like.  I think I probably will, though.

 

I'm going to be using the electrolysis tank on the rear fender this week.  I'll have before and after pics.

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

Very interested in this restore since I got a 68' Raider 12.

[WheelHorseNut 222]

43 minutes ago, mmmmmdonuts said:

Very interested in this restore since I got a 68' Raider 12.

 

Great!  I'm also keeping a log of what parts I've purchased, where I got them and the price, which I'll post periodically or at the end of the resto -- not sure.  Hopefully that'll help!

Oh, I'll also be logging the bolt sizes and lengths for each location.  Maybe that's a little bit of overkill...but maybe it'll help someone someday!

Edited November 8, 2016 by WheelHorseNut

[roadapples 6,983]

Good luck with this.. I have the same tractor, with no attachments...

[RedRanger 1,468]

Is that a belly blade minus the bracket?

 

I've found the downloadable manuals to be a great source of finding the correct bolt sizes for my restorations.  Most of the WH parts diagrams list the actual bolt size.  They help greatly with reassembly too.  

Take lots of pictures BEFORE you disassemble.  You'll be thankful when it's time to reassemble.

Edited November 8, 2016 by RedRanger

[CTPhil 53]

I think that I may have the same tractor also.  I've got to check the numbers, but it's a Raider 10 with a Techumseh,

[WheelHorseNut 222]

44 minutes ago, roadapples said:

Good luck with this.. I have the same tractor, with no attachments...

Thanks!  How do you like it?  I've never had a chance to actually drive it, unfortunately.

 

43 minutes ago, RedRanger said:

Is that a belly blade minus the bracket?

 

I've found the downloadable manuals to be a great source of finding the correct bolt sizes for my restorations.  Most of the WH parts diagrams list the actual bolt size.  They help greatly with reassembly too.  

Take lots of pictures BEFORE you disassemble.  You'll be thankful when it's time to reassemble.

It seems a little tall... The belly blades I've seen look shorter.  I can get a measurement tonight -- maybe that'll help?

 

I didn't realize the manuals have the bolt sizes in there!  I'll have to check it out.  Maybe it'll save me some time if I don't have to log them...although, I have all winter.  Lol

It's funny you mention that (taking a bunch of pictures) -- I also work on older cars so I'm a big fan of pictures, sharpies and ziplock baggies.  It makes it so much easier to reassemble.  A few minutes extra on disassembly could save you hours on reassembly!  I have 5 pictures of the underside of the fender...Maybe a little overkill...hah!  Hard drive space is cheap... Good to have several angles of the part installed and then all by itself, in my opinion.

 

Thanks again for the well wishes guys!  I'm excited to get it together and use it.  I have a special place in my heart for this tractor because it was a family friend's tractor (I bought his house after he passed) and the path it took to finally end up with me.

2 minutes ago, CTPhil said:

I think that I may have the same tractor also.  I've got to check the numbers, but it's a Raider 10 with a Techumseh,

Nice!  Are you restoring it or is it a worker?  Yeah -- I couldn't find it when I went to look up the numbers.  Let me know what you find!

[CTPhil 53]

Worker first, restoration later.  First I have to figure out why no spark. 

 

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

1 hour ago, WheelHorseNut said:

 

Great!  I'm also keeping a log of what parts I've purchased, where I got them and the price, which I'll post periodically or at the end of the resto -- not sure.  Hopefully that'll help!

Oh, I'll also be logging the bolt sizes and lengths for each location.  Maybe that's a little bit of overkill...but maybe it'll help someone someday!

Yes the more documentation the better! I have been trying to do that as I have done various things but since it is my worker I don't have time to leave it decommissioned long. 

[WheelHorseNut 222]

10 hours ago, CTPhil said:

Worker first, restoration later.  First I have to figure out why no spark. 

 

 

Did it have spark at one point or has it never had spark? 

9 hours ago, mmmmmdonuts said:

Yes the more documentation the better! I have been trying to do that as I have done various things but since it is my worker I don't have time to leave it decommissioned long. 

I agree!  I'll do my best!  That's kind of why I bought my B80 -- to have something to use in the backyard.

[CTPhil 53]

8 hours ago, WheelHorseNut said:

 

Did it have spark at one point or has it never had spark? 

 

I just got it a few weeks ago, apparently it ran for the previous owner.  The decal on the engine says it has electronic ignition.  The only troubleshooting I've done so far is to try a different plug.

[WheelHorseNut 222]

2 hours ago, CTPhil said:

I just got it a few weeks ago, apparently it ran for the previous owner.  The decal on the engine says it has electronic ignition.  The only troubleshooting I've done so far is to try a different plug.

 

Yeah, it does have that...  Here's an interesting thread on the Solid State Ignition.

Here's another one.

Edited November 9, 2016 by WheelHorseNut
Added another link

[CTPhil 53]

6 hours ago, WheelHorseNut said:

 

Yeah, it does have that...  Here's an interesting thread on the Solid State Ignition.

Here's another one.

Thanks for the links.  Here's a pic of what I've got:

 

 

 

Here's the tractor:

 

 

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

Phil,

 

That tractor looks in really great shape and it looks like the original tires (at least the front) as well. I do love the tire chains on each of the tires.

[WheelHorseNut 222]

21 hours ago, CTPhil said:

Thanks for the links.  Here's a pic of what I've got:

 

Here's the tractor:

Great tractor!  I agree -- those front chains are awesome -- I wonder if they still make them.  They probably really help traction when turning in the snow.

 

Unfortunately, the spark issue could be that SSI box.  Here's what @Save Old Iron said in the post that you can check prior to getting into the SSI:

If you disconnect the kill wire from the switch, you eliminate that one possible problem. Unfortunately, on this system, there are many more possibilities. The only 2 "cheap" ones I know are the kill wire malfunction and a bad (corroded) connection at the spark plug boot in the boot on the spark wire.

make that 3 cheap fixes

 

the third one would be to set the proper gap from the SSI unit pickup to the long pin

 

0.006 to 0.010 if I recall properly. I would set it a little toward the 0.006 side myself

 

The diagram on the first link shows the kill wire.  Silly question but, the gap on the spark plug isn't too big, right?  I guess that wouldn't prevent it from running until the combustion not happening efficiently enough fouled out the plug...

 

I actually bought a tractor that way.  The owner swore it ran shortly before.  I checked for compression, and made sure it was pushing out exhaust and then took it home and checked the spark plug gap and it was out of whack (and the plug was obviously dark).  I changed the plug with the correct gap and she fired right up.  This was a condenser and points tractor, though...

Edited November 10, 2016 by WheelHorseNut
Spelling

[CasualObserver 3,408]

35 minutes ago, WheelHorseNut said:

I wonder if they still make them.  They probably really help traction when turning in the snow.

 

They're likely a common size still available since a lot of walk behind snowblowers use them too.  As for turning on snow (or ice), they're pretty much useless like that since the front wheels have no drive... no bite. It's like chaining up trailer tires. Looks tough and agressive, but doesn't do anything.  A better solution is to take a single piece of roller chain around the circumference of the tire... makes it act more like the runner of a snowmobile.

[WheelHorseNut 222]

4 minutes ago, CasualObserver said:

 

They're likely a common size still available since a lot of walk behind snowblowers use them too.  As for turning on snow (or ice), they're pretty much useless like that since the front wheels have no drive... no bite. It's like chaining up trailer tires. Looks tough and agressive, but doesn't do anything.  A better solution is to take a single piece of roller chain around the circumference of the tire... makes it act more like the runner of a snowmobile.

 

Gotcha -- thought it might prevent it from pushing straight when the wheel is turned.

Roller chain -- like motorcycle or bike style chain?  Huh... never thought of that.  Have you tried it before?  That's an interesting idea...

[pfrederi 17,734]

#40 roller chain works very well on my plow  tractor

 

[WheelHorseNut 222]

Very cool -- I'll have to try it!

Great setup, Paul!  Love the list of tractors and stuff in your signature.  I'm an aspiring 15 Wheel Horse owner

 

Edited November 10, 2016 by WheelHorseNut

[pfrederi 17,734]

You mentioned E tanking your fender  What do you use as an E-tank.  I have a Commando 8 I am working on with a lot of rust including the fender and other big parts

 

[WheelHorseNut 222]

2 hours ago, pfrederi said:

You mentioned E tanking your fender  What do you use as an E-tank.  I have a Commando 8 I am working on with a lot of rust including the fender and other big parts

 

Sure thing.  Electrolysis tank.  YouTube has a bunch of videos showing how to do it.

you just need a plastic tote, a battery charger, some arm and hammer washing soda (not baking soda), a sacrificial piece of steel and some water.

Here's a good video on it.

Edited November 11, 2016 by WheelHorseNut
Added a link

[pfrederi 17,734]

11 hours ago, WheelHorseNut said:

Sure thing.  Electrolysis tank.  YouTube has a bunch of videos showing how to do it.

you just need a plastic tote, a battery charger, some arm and hammer washing soda (not baking soda), a sacrificial piece of steel and some water.

Here's a good video on it.

I have a small setup now...Guess I need to look at a bigger plastic tote, my biggest right now will not take the fender halfway in any direction.  It is a neat process i have done several small parts in a 5 gal buck set up.

 

Thank you

[69-Raider-10 114]

How's it coming along? I'm about halfway done my 69' 10 too and I'll tell ya....not having spark on a Solid State is like finding out which hole in the screen door is blocked. It SUCKS to the point I bought a Commando 8 and I'm now dropping the Kohler in her until I break down and switch the Tecumseh to 12 volt points, or I buy a new coil, stator, ignition, rectifier, etc.. LOL. Good luck to you and let me know if I can help in any way. I did find out A LOT about this tractor while tinkering, cleaning, and painting.