Detector 72 #1 Posted October 25, 2016 I need some ideas on removing my muffler, it looks pretty bad. I got the clamp loose but the muffler where it slides on is brittle and flakes away easy, I used a small chisel and a jeweler hammer and with one light tap it chipped as you can see in the photo. I talked with the guys at POR-15 today and decided to go with their brush on high temp coating, the rep recommended sand blasting and hand sanding as a last option for best results, I may have to go with the last option unless you guys have some tips. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #2 Posted October 25, 2016 Bigger hammer? Oxy/Acet torch? Just get after it with your hammer and chisel and spread the split area. You mean to remove it, repaint and reinstall? I've missed something? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Detector 72 #3 Posted October 25, 2016 That's the issue, I lightly hit it under the split area and its chipping instead of spreading open. Sorry but yes I meant remove, sandblast, paint, reinstall.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hossenfeffa 49 #4 Posted October 26, 2016 Heat. Preferably with oxy acetylene torch set up 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Detector 72 #5 Posted October 26, 2016 1 minute ago, Hossenfeffa said: Heat. Preferably with oxy acetylene torch set up I have zero experience with torches but a guy I know does, I'll let him take a look at it. Thanks 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #6 Posted October 26, 2016 (edited) Do a search on E-tank rust removal or just rust removal and it will come up. Members have had good results with electrolysis, even freeing up rusted c-clamps. It will only remove rust. I assumed you had it off the engine,sorry. You could also spray penetrant and use heat as others have suggested.If you could get the elbow and muffler off together I would try the E-tank. Edited October 26, 2016 by 312Hydro 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Detector 72 #7 Posted October 26, 2016 I may soak it with PB blaster again which did free up the rusty clamp bolts which kept me from cutting it off, it's a eye sore considering how the rest of the tractor looks so far into my restoration. Now that you mention it the E-tank would be less aggressive than my sandblaster which would likely blow through the thin areas. If all fails I'll have to sand it where it is the best I can and apply the POR 15. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #8 Posted October 26, 2016 Sandblaster or electrolysis it will look rust pitted even after painted... If sandblasting blows through you had very little time left anyway. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Detector 72 #9 Posted October 27, 2016 4 hours ago, DennisThornton said: Sandblaster or electrolysis it will look rust pitted even after painted... If sandblasting blows through you had very little time left anyway. Yep, you right, one backfire & I'd be in trouble. I'm might as well be in the market for a new/used muffler either way. I looked under my model number 31-12KE01 and could not locate it for the M12 on Partstree but I may had overlooked it, I think it is a Toro 94-3739 same as the 312-8 with a hefty price of over $200. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #10 Posted October 27, 2016 Maybe some high temp "ceramic" miracle in a can will buy you some time. Hey, I'm frugal! I cut a 1 pound tank down to fix a high price Simplicity muffler. It just worked out that what was bad was local and the same shape as the tank. Worked great and I expect years of use. BTW: http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/ Never used them but I've seen samples. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #11 Posted October 28, 2016 Might try: POR 15 BVH Black Velvet HIGH-HEAT 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Detector 72 #12 Posted October 28, 2016 8 hours ago, DennisThornton said: Might try: POR 15 BVH Black Velvet HIGH-HEAT That's the paint I spoke to the Por 15 rep about this week, seems to hold up well on manifolds & headers after reading about it on automotive forums, 8 oz should cover the muffler. The guy with the welding shop said he's heat it up but wasn't comfortable being so close to the head so I may just sand/wire brush/degrease & coat it with the POR-15. I used the regular POR-15 on other projects and it's tough stuff actually the toughest I've seen yet but pricey 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elkskin's mower junkyard 1,117 #13 Posted October 31, 2016 (edited) this is how i remove all old mufflers and pipes that rust in. i searched for a while and one day stumbled over it been using it ever since http://gardentractortalk.com/articles.html/_/tech-tips-how-to/how-to-remove-a-stuck-muffler-nipple-r123 Edited October 31, 2016 by craftsmanmowerfreak Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6wheeler 633 #14 Posted November 1, 2016 (edited) Just sayin'. The muffler on my C-160 was junk. Toro wanted $275.00 for the replacement. Plus, shipping, $ 12.00. Elbo? $3.50 at ACE Hardware. Lead pipe $18.00 at Fleet Farm. IH tractor Muffler $ 26.00 at Fleet Farm. Bought a raincap for $9.00 at Fleet Farm just cuz it is cool. Got a "stack" for $ 56.50. It looks sweet too. Only saved $230.50 but hey? BTW, I rounded up. All Prices included MN. sales tax.Why not. Good Luck. Pat Edited November 1, 2016 by 6wheeler Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
