TIGman 2,006 #1 Posted October 23, 2016 Just wondering if you guys have any recommendations and advice for cleaning out rust and gunk from a steel gas tank? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,730 #2 Posted October 23, 2016 I have read of guys putting large grit sandblasting media along with some water into the tank, sealing it up, and placing it into a paint shaker. 5 to 10 minute made it clean and shiny on the inside. After flushing it to get all the junk out, a dose of alcohol removed all of the moisture. However, many found that removing the gunk and rust revealed tiny holes that had been seal by the rust. 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ACman 7,624 #3 Posted October 23, 2016 (edited) Put some pea stone in it , wrap it good with a towel . Now pack it into the clothes dryer so that it doesn't bang around . Use no heat setting and let it run for awhile . Herd this trick from a motorcycle restorer who does this when the wife's away . Edited October 23, 2016 by ACman 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,141 #4 Posted October 23, 2016 ...or bungee cord it to a wheel, and do some hot laps around the yard. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 26,145 #5 Posted October 23, 2016 20 minutes ago, ACman said: Put some pea stone in it , wrap it good with a towel . Now pack it into the clothes dryer so that it doesn't bang around . Use no heat setting and let it run for awhile . Herd this trick from a motorcycle restorer who does this when the wife's away . Very ingenious...However me thinks the next post from TIGman will be something like: "Lonely WH owner seeking place to sleep (after I replace the Wife's Dryer)...". 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elkskin's mower junkyard 1,117 #6 Posted October 23, 2016 2 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said: Very ingenious...However me thinks the next post from TIGman will be something like: "Lonely WH owner seeking place to sleep (after I replace the Wife's Dryer)...". lol theres a youtube video of a guy doing this though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clueless 3,012 #7 Posted October 23, 2016 Please, don't put an old gas tank in the dryer you use to dry your clothes. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #8 Posted October 23, 2016 I've sandblasted some but it's an awful job since it blows right back out and it's almost impossible to reach all areas. Rust removing chemicals work great but what you use dictates how you use them. Phosphoric acid (in lots of rust removers) is pretty aggressive and not as dangerous is hydrochloric, but HCl is MUCH faster! I'd suggest a combination of what's already been mentioned but I've also not really done it. I've read several accounts of adding sand and gravel, I'd use crushed for aggression, and attaching to a wheel and the go mow the lawn! Finish up with some phosphoric acid and some gas proof coating. Seems POR comes to mind... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ACman 7,624 #9 Posted October 23, 2016 Why not use a dryer on no heat setting packed in so won't move around . That's why you do it when the wife is gone . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,874 #10 Posted October 23, 2016 I've used carb cleaner with nuts and bolts shaking occasionally over a period of a couple days. This and a good rinse with carb cleaner sometimes can do the trick. The last one I had was real bad and that trick didn't work. I resorted to muriatic acid. Dangerous to say the least. I put a few ounces in the tank shook it up a bit, allowed it to set for a couple minutes, drained and flushed it out with water. I rinsed with carb cleaner, then put a few ounces of motor oil in and coated the inside of the tank. This worked pretty good. Was lucky, tank had no pit holes. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry77 1,218 #11 Posted October 23, 2016 All kidding aside, I restored an old Studebaker and used muratic acid ( 1part to 3 parts water )..after cleaning it, it did indeed have pin holes in it which had to be soldered shut - then coated it with a product from Eastwood (eastwood.com) . This was all on advice from car restorers. Checked tank 5 years later and it was still rust free... 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TIGman 2,006 #12 Posted October 23, 2016 Thanks!! Guys for your recommendations. . Think I'll pass on the clothes dryer trick. Mrs. TIG might give me the boot..... I do like AMC's idea with the hot laps around the yard. Vroooooom!! lol Did some looking around online and some guys are using something as simple as vinegar to clean out as gas tank then a solution of baking soda to neutralize the acic in the vinegar. Many Thanks!! Again, you guys are awesome!! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #13 Posted October 23, 2016 45 minutes ago, clueless said: Please, don't put an old gas tank in the dryer you use to dry your clothes. I've sandblasted some but it's an awful job since it blows right back out and it's almost impossible to reach all areas. Rust removing chemicals work great but what you use dictates how you use them. Phosphoric acid (in lots of rust removers) is pretty aggressive and not as dangerous is hydrochloric, but HCl is MUCH faster! I'd suggest a combination of what's already been mentioned but I've also not really done it. I've read several accounts of adding sand and gravel, I'd use crushed for aggression, and attaching to a wheel and the go mow the lawn! Finish up with some phosphoric acid and some gas proof coating. Seems POR comes to mind... I'm thinking I might not put a gas tank in a gas dryer... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maxiblue 352 #14 Posted October 23, 2016 I power wash with a cleaner, then dry the tank, if only light rust I use vinegar let sit for a while then drain, then make up baking soda and some water and use this to rinse out the tank this will neutralize the vinegar then dry out the tank. done this on car and motorcycle tanks, as long as the rust is not ceked on. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clueless 3,012 #15 Posted October 23, 2016 20 minutes ago, ACman said: Why not use a dryer on no heat setting packed in so won't move around . That's why you do it when the wife is gone . If you have completely eliminated any faint gas odor then the tank is already fairly clean. While I know most old bikers and garden tractor guys don't mind if they smell a little like gas the rest of the family, not so much. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #16 Posted October 23, 2016 33 minutes ago, ACman said: Why not use a dryer on no heat setting packed in so won't move around . That's why you do it when the wife is gone . Yeah, I suppose, and long as the "no heat" protocol is followed! 25 minutes ago, TIGman said: Thanks!! Guys for your recommendations. . Think I'll pass on the clothes dryer trick. Mrs. TIG might give me the boot..... I do like AMC's idea with the hot laps around the yard. Vroooooom!! lol Did some looking around online and some guys are using something as simple as vinegar to clean out as gas tank then a solution of baking soda to neutralize the acic in the vinegar. Many Thanks!! Again, you guys are awesome!! I meant to mention vinegar! Very overlooked and underappreciated rust remover! And mostly safe! It will however completely ruin high carbon steel if left long enough! Don't ask... Takes much longer than HCL/Hydrochloric/Muriatic and even phosphoric. But it does work GOOD if given time. Just check any tools frequently with whatever you use! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry77 1,218 #17 Posted October 23, 2016 (edited) If you don't coat the inside of the tank after rust removal - It will continue to rust...been there/done that... Guess I should elaborate: went the route that is being talked about here, got it looking good and installed it in the car ( no mean feat for a 62 year old idiot ) Within a week it had gummed up the fuel filter with rust- I took out the fuel gauge sender and used a flashlight to see - nothing but rust.!.. Removed the gas tank again and asked for advice from professionals and they said: use muratic acid ( 1part to 3 parts water )..to clean it, then coated it with a product from Eastwood (eastwood.com) . This was all on advice from car restorers. Checked tank 5 years later and it was still rust free. Edited October 23, 2016 by Jerry77 additional info 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ranger 1,769 #18 Posted October 23, 2016 Anyone tried a small cement mixer instead of a clothes drier? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #19 Posted October 24, 2016 On 10/23/2016 at 10:19 AM, Jerry77 said: If you don't coat the inside of the tank after rust removal - It will continue to rust...been there/done that... Guess I should elaborate: went the route that is being talked about here, got it looking good and installed it in the car ( no mean feat for a 62 year old idiot ) Within a week it had gummed up the fuel filter with rust- I took out the fuel gauge sender and used a flashlight to see - nothing but rust.!.. Removed the gas tank again and asked for advice from professionals and they said: use muratic acid ( 1part to 3 parts water )..to clean it, then coated it with a product from Eastwood (eastwood.com) . This was all on advice from car restorers. Checked tank 5 years later and it was still rust free. Agreed. Our Lawn Ranger had been sitting for a couple years when we bought it. Tank was crusted up inside. We did the rock shaker thing. My 12 year old worked great. Then Vinegar for a couple days. It cleaned up well. The tank has sat for the past year. Last week I picked it up to start the project again and the inside was as nasty as it was a year ago. This time I mixed up some acid and water and let is soak over night. Next morning I flushed it. Inside looks like new. Then I filled it with Kerosene to prevent the rust temporarily. Now I'm looking for a tank coating for small tanks. The kits I'm seeing are like $50. Is there a cheaper option for sealing the inside of a tank that holds less than a gallon? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry77 1,218 #20 Posted October 25, 2016 1 hour ago, RedRanger said: Now I'm looking for a tank coating for small tanks. The kits I'm seeing are like $50. Is there a cheaper option for sealing the inside of a tank that holds less than a gallon You can buy muratic acid at hardware stores - haven't bought any in 15 years, but I remember it being 5 or 6 bucks for a gallon - if you use it just mix it 1 part to 3 parts water - don't leave it overnight - I can't remember now how long I left it in the tank ( sealed it up and sloshed it around for maybe 15 or 20 minutes- I think ) and then flushed it - if it appears shiny it's ready, then use air to dry it out ( I think I used my torch to provide some drying ) and have the sealer ready to go...I used Eastwood products, but in checking them, they only have kits now - not just the sealer - pretty pricey too....never tried por 15 but googled it and found some at walmart - around 25 bucks...If you don't seal it you are wasting your time..3 to 1 on muratic acid is pretty weak, so would take awhile for it to eat thru metal...just keep an eye on it ( and wear eye protection when you are using it ) I used in a large plastic container to clean up rusty,greasy parts like wheels, and undercarriage parts on cars. Would leave the heavier stuff in it for 4 to 5 hours. Beats the heck out of solvents and sandpaper..You will have to flush out the kero before using the coating... 4 minutes ago, Jerry77 said: ...never tried por 15 but googled it and found some at walmart - around 25 bucks. Well, I got kinda windy there .... might google the por 15 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #21 Posted October 25, 2016 Another penny or two to add to my previous 2 cents. I've spent a TON of time fighting rust and learned that chemistry truly can be your friend! Most common acids from citric and acetic (vinegar) to phosphoric and hydrochloric (Muriatic) are quite effective at removing rust! All will do a fine job, with differences in the time needed. HCL/hydrochloric/muriatic will remove light to slightly heavier in real time! As you watch! Phosphoric will remove flash rust instantly but bore you removing heavier, but even vinegar will remove heavy rust if given time. There's no need to dilute any of them other than to reduce the time it takes to do the job and the period to review progress, and while all are selective to removing rust it's best to stop the process when the rust is gone otherwise you might come back to see your smaller parts missing all together! For those that haven't, soak some small rusty bolt in some vinegar and watch it's progress. It will take longer than a beer or two but watch it over a day or so and see what happens! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #22 Posted October 25, 2016 3 hours ago, RedRanger said: Agreed. Our Lawn Ranger had been sitting for a couple years when we bought it. Tank was crusted up inside. We did the rock shaker thing. My 12 year old worked great. Then Vinegar for a couple days. It cleaned up well. The tank has sat for the past year. Last week I picked it up to start the project again and the inside was as nasty as it was a year ago. This time I mixed up some acid and water and let is soak over night. Next morning I flushed it. Inside looks like new. Then I filled it with Kerosene to prevent the rust temporarily. Now I'm looking for a tank coating for small tanks. The kits I'm seeing are like $50. Is there a cheaper option for sealing the inside of a tank that holds less than a gallon? You have both confirmed how to remove the rust and confirmed that it will return if not dealt with! I only know of a POR product but I'm sure there are others! I bet we learn of more as this thread continues! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dcrage 628 #23 Posted October 25, 2016 (edited) Heh Guys -- Be careful with the HCl (hydrochloric acid) -- Besides being corrosive/burning, HCl like all of those other acids is generating hydrogen gas (which is explosive in the presence of an ignition source) when they remove the rust -- With the slow rust removal (i.e. vinegar, phosphoric acid) the hydrogen is getting time to disperse into the air -- With the HCl and a closed up tank you could build up a significant amount of gas which would explode with a spark/fire (i.e. you are making a bomb) -- So the biggest watch out would be to use the HCl in the absence of ignition sources and vent the tank often (or don't close the tank) when using HCl Edited October 25, 2016 by dcrage 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan Hankins 80 #24 Posted October 27, 2016 I use apple cider vinegar ,work good just make sure to neutralize pretty quick because the rust comes quick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites