When do you paint your Wheels?

[Duramax7man7 506]

Thanks. Yeah I like the smidge off white. Looks real nice!

Here are both sides of the one wheel that has been wire wheeled, sanded, cleaned, rust fixed> Etching Primer> Fill Primer> Sanded> Fill Primer... Just need to sand one more time and EXCHANGE my white for canvas/ off white, then clear coat. It's sitting on a plastic bottle to raise up a bit.

 

This pair of wheels (off of my 1990 520h) are the worst so I think that with the newer set on my 1995 312-8 I will be choosing to paint them after mounting the new tires as I wont need no where near as much prep. Just have to meticulously tape off the tires. Probably when they are deflated still. That makes the most sense.

 

[Duramax7man7 506]

MSo I returned the White and tried Ace, Walmart, Meijer and Home Depot and found nothing. BUT, got a Ace employee to hunt down some "White Canvas" at another Great Lakes Ace Hardware about 21 clicks NE of me. So Ill be heading that way tomorrow. 

[RedRanger 1,468]

12 hours ago, Mastiffman said:

MSo I returned the White and tried Ace, Walmart, Meijer and Home Depot and found nothing. BUT, got a Ace employee to hunt down some "White Canvas" at another Great Lakes Ace Hardware about 21 clicks NE of me. So Ill be heading that way tomorrow. 

Did you check Menards?

[doc724 925]

Well I painted the front rims today with Rustoleum Canvas White and I second the experience cited by Red Ranger.  It is as close to original as I have found.

[Duramax7man7 506]

On 10/22/2016 at 0:41 PM, RedRanger said:

Did you check Menards?

 

No I didn't. BUT I find 7 Cans of Rustoleum protective enamel at the Great Lakes Ace I went to on Saturday! Got them for $3.29 from $4.99 after asking the manager if I could get a "Case" price. SO I bought all 7 cans that they had! 

 

 

On 10/22/2016 at 3:59 PM, doc724 said:

Well I painted the front rims today with Rustoleum Canvas White and I second the experience cited by Red Ranger.  It is as close to original as I have found.

 

 Good to hear because I bought enough to paint all 8 wheels for my 2 WH Tractors. 

 I didn't et a chance to sand and paint like I I'd hoped this weekend. But was able to get the parts needed for my pressure washer and clean up both of my tractor some. It was well needed. So this week will be pait week I think. Then  can mount the tires and not have to switch out tires between the two. I was able to go to discount tire and have them dismount and mount my new 23" x 10.5" x 12" 4 ply Turf masters on the best set of rims. I won't have to do much but a scuff, prime and paint those so I will deflat and tape prior to painting them instead of leaving the tire off. P

 

 More pics coming soon. 

[Duramax7man7 506]

Okay... This is my test rim. 3 coats... will put clear coat on tomorrow or the next day. I kind of like it. I will out the tire on after a few days of curing and then mount it on a tractor to see if I like the combo. 

 

What do you all think?

[Ken B 3,164]

I always put the tire on before I paint the rim. I mask the tire off prior to putting air in and then I paint the rim, I also tube my tires. Its impossible not too scratch the rim while putting the new tire on... At least it is impossible for me.

Edited October 25, 2016 by Ken B

[RedRanger 1,468]

Install the tires from the backside.  Then you don't scratch the front.

Put some electrical tape on the backside bead to help prevent chipping.

Also use a tire lube to slick things up like RuGlyde or even dish soap and water.

 

Those look good.  I always apply clear right after the color.  Some of the paints have a waiting period before you can recoat if you miss the initial wet coat times.

If you respray too soon, the paints may react with each other.

 

Rattle cans also take longer to fully cure.  If you can let the wheels sit for a week or so, the paint will be harder to chip.

[Duramax7man7 506]

3 hours ago, Ken B said:

I always put the tire on before I paint the rim. I mask the tire off prior to putting air in and then I paint the rim, I also tube my tires. Its impossible not too scratch the rim while putting the new tire on... At least it is impossible for me.

Yep. This is what I plan on doing at least for the front tires. I want to make sure that I get any loose surface rust taken care of these rear wheels though.

 

My other set of 12" rims that are on my 312-8 are really clean. No rust on one with only a tiny chip or two. The other one has some little dots of rust here and there on the back but front seem fairly clean as well. I'll be leaving the newly mount 23" x 10

.5" Turf Masters on those and masking off the tires prior to painting. I'll make sure to do a good masking ob as well. 

 

 

1 hour ago, RedRanger said:

Install the tires from the backside.  Then you don't scratch the front.

Put some electrical tape on the backside bead to help prevent chipping.

Also use a tire lube to slick things up like RuGlyde or even dish soap and water.

 

Those look good.  I always apply clear right after the color.  Some of the paints have a waiting period before you can recoat if you miss the initial wet coat times.

If you respray too soon, the paints may react with each other.

 

Rattle cans also take longer to fully cure.  If you can let the wheels sit for a week or so, the paint will be harder to chip.

 

I tell ya what though... The can implies that if the surface is prepped properly then drying to quickly is the cvause of some orange peel. I had painted this one in garage that is a bit cool. LIke 60 deg. It seems like a pretty nice finish so far. I did a light first coat. Waited a couple of minutes in between each of the two follow caots that were progressively a little heavier. Looks like some really nice paint. 

 

 I have it inside right now after spending the night in the garage. Hopefully this will allow a good curing today. I would like to spray the clear on tonight. 

[RedRanger 1,468]

4 hours ago, Mastiffman said:

Yep. This is what I plan on doing at least for the front tires. I want to make sure that I get any loose surface rust taken care of these rear wheels though.

 

My other set of 12" rims that are on my 312-8 are really clean. No rust on one with only a tiny chip or two. The other one has some little dots of rust here and there on the back but front seem fairly clean as well. I'll be leaving the newly mount 23" x 10

.5" Turf Masters on those and masking off the tires prior to painting. I'll make sure to do a good masking ob as well. 

 

 

 

I tell ya what though... The can implies that if the surface is prepped properly then drying to quickly is the cvause of some orange peel. I had painted this one in garage that is a bit cool. LIke 60 deg. It seems like a pretty nice finish so far. I did a light first coat. Waited a couple of minutes in between each of the two follow caots that were progressively a little heavier. Looks like some really nice paint. 

 

 I have it inside right now after spending the night in the garage. Hopefully this will allow a good curing today. I would like to spray the clear on tonight. 

Temp plays a big part in dry time.  Seems if temp drops below 60, spray paint dries slow or not at all.  It'll stay soft and gooey.

Taking the painted parts inside to dry where it's warm is best.

Also watch the humidity outside.  High humidity messes with paint drying.  I had a clear coat that hazed over from high humidity last year.

 

I try to leave freshly painted items alone for up to a week to fully cure before assembly.  Just because it's "dry" doesn't mean it is "hard".

 

What I was saying about spraying a clear top coat over new paint is make sure you wait until the paint manufacturer says it's ok to do so.  Most paints require you topcoat within 1 hour or wait like 48 hours or more while the paint out gasses and cures.

If you topcoat during this time, the new coat may react with the base and lift your color layer.  Then you're back to square one stripping and sanding.

 

This is from the link....https://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/RustoleumUSA/TDS/English/CBG/Stops Rust/SRT-01_Stops_Rust_Enamel_Sprays_TDS.ashx

Dry and recoat times are based on 70°F and 50% relative humidity. Allow more time at cooler temperatures. Dries tack-free in 2-4 hours, to handle in 5-9 hours, and is fully dry in 24 hours. Apply a second coat within 1 hour or after 48 hours.

 

If you just painted the color yesterday, I'd wait another day or two before I cleared it, if I were you.  Trust me, I'm speaking from experience.  I've rushed the process before and ended up taking twice as long to start over than if I'd just waited another day.

Next time, lay the clear on right away, as soon as the color tacks up.  It all bonds and dries together.  

 

The hardest part about painting is the wait afterwards.

 

 

As for Orange Peel, you shouldn't really get any from a rattle can if the surface was prepped clean.  The spray can is designed to spray smooth and consistent.  If the surface is clean, the paint should flow out smoothly on the surface.  

Spraying with a gun is a different animal all together though.  Air pressure, paint thickness, volume,  gun tip, all affect flow and spray.  Gun adjustment and paint mixture are the trick.

My last set of wheels I sprayed with a quart of Rustoleum Canvas White, some mineral spirits, and a pint of enamel hardener with a HVLP gun.  Same color but much harder paint once it dries.

Edited October 25, 2016 by RedRanger

[Duramax7man7 506]

Excellent advice and I will adhere to that... A job done right the first time is a second job avoided...

 Plus I have a whole other wheel to prep as well as an engine to cleanup.

[RedRanger 1,468]

11 minutes ago, Mastiffman said:

Excellent advice and I will adhere to that... A job done right the first time is a second job avoided...

 Plus I have a whole other wheel to prep as well as an engine to cleanup.

Good idea.  Spend your time on something else and rotate back to this in a couple days.    It'll still be there.

 

Here's a shot of my latest wheel paint.  Did the fronts earlier this year with a rattle can.  Did the rear duals with a HPLV gun back in June.

 

Edited October 25, 2016 by RedRanger

[Duramax7man7 506]

Yeah those look really nice. I like the dually  as well. Will be nice to see mine finally painted and on. Looks like you painted your whole frame as well already?

 Waht's the brighter coor that everyone seems to lean towards? I like that better than the Cherry Red Rustoleum. 

[RedRanger 1,468]

9 minutes ago, Mastiffman said:

Yeah those look really nice. I like the dually  as well. Will be nice to see mine finally painted and on. Looks like you painted your whole frame as well already?

 Waht's the brighter coor that everyone seems to lean towards? I like that better than the Cherry Red Rustoleum. 

This tractor was painted a while back by the previous owner.  It was a basket case that I pieced together.  Belt guard from one tractor, rear fenders from another, hood and frame came together.

 

If you're staying with Rustoleum, Regal Red is what I like.

Otherwise, the early International Harvester Red is a close match.

[Duramax7man7 506]

Well it's coming together nicely so far. When do you plan on painting the rest? You did paint the frame and all already?

Okay so regal red and harvester red. Got it thanks. 

 

Hit the other rear wheel with the wire wheel, 320 grit sand paper and Rust Fix last night and then again this morning. That one was a little worse than the other but I think that it will turn out right. Good enough considereing it's original condition. 

[BigRedGrizzly 229]

Hi Fellas.... I always seem to muck up the fresh paint on my rims with the tire irons when I go to remount them. So I started to use the playing card technique. 

[Ed Kennell 39,161]

Now that's one of the best ideas I have ever seen.  

 

    

[953 nut 56,159]

On 10/19/2016 at 8:24 AM, RedRanger said:

get all the loose paint and rust off, you don't need to strip the entire wheel.

I would caution you against doing this. You are doing a lot of great work, it would be a shame to have a paint reaction ruin an otherwise fine job. Take the extra time to go all the way to clean bare metal.            

[Duramax7man7 506]

Alright. Here is the finished product. Not to bad. I like the canvas white for sure! 

 

Will be mounting the front lug tires and THEN painting them this time. I'll probably prep the rims first then mount the new ones. 

 

[RedRanger 1,468]

If you want to put those hubcaps back on without scratching the rims, a trick I found is to remove the clips on the hubcaps and run a strip of plastic door edge protector around the sharp edge of the hubcap and then install.  The door edge guard will hold it in place just fine and not scratch the wheels. The plastic door edge makes a nice tight fit. 

 

 

[Duramax7man7 506]

Very cool. But I think that I like them better off. Otherwise I would have just not worried about the paint. But that's a GREAT Idea. Thanks for sharing. 

 

Andrew C.

[WheelHorseNut 222]

On 10/30/2016 at 5:23 PM, BigRedGrizzly said:

Hi Fellas.... I always seem to muck up the fresh paint on my rims with the tire irons when I go to remount them. So I started to use the playing card technique. 

Yup!  I've used that on car wheels too -- but I used index cards.  Same theory.  A time saver for sure!

[Duramax7man7 506]

Ah yes they would cover more too. Nice idea as well. Can't wait to try this on the front rims. Which are much cleaner than the rear ones were. They only have rust outside of the hubs. 

 

 

I also have lugs for the front rims. 

[WHX?? 49,485]

Thanks Big Red for chiming in on that card trick, I saw that before here but couldn't find it!

[Duramax7man7 506]

Any recommendations on safely mounting a set of wheel weights on these freshly painted rims?

 Here is a set I'm thinking about getting. they are 95lbs each? To Much weight? If not how would I mount them without destroying my rims new paint? Which is a few weeks old now. 

 

 If to much weight, how much is recommended? 50lbs each side?