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cschannuth

Drive Belt Slipping

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cschannuth

My drive belt feels like it's slipping and I can't seem to fix it.  So far I have replaced the drive belt and the clutch spring.  I broke down and bought the good belt from my old Wheel Horse dealer.  The belt didn't seem to help at all.  The spring helped a little and my clutch pedal definitely feels firmer.    In the lower gears it seems fine but in high gear when you let out the clutch quickly the tractor sort of glides in to gear.  Also, when going down hill in high gear with my trailer in tow the tractor begins to speed up until I use the brakes.  The engine speed isn't increasing but the tractor speed is.  As a comparison, I have Denny Clarke's 701 he redid and if your don't feather the clutch on that when leaving in high gear it immediately lifts the front tires off the ground.

 

Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Craig

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AMC RULES

Are  your pulley sheves perfectly clean...like bare metal?  :scratchead: 

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cschannuth

They looked good to me but I'm no expert. 

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wallfish

Check for a sheared key in the drive pulley and then the rear wheel hubs.

Post a pic of your tractor with the belt guard off.

Have you done any other work on this tractor? has it always been like this or just started to happen? Tractor model? The more info you can provide about it the better. 

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cschannuth

I use it to plow with no problem in hi range 2nd gear. It is a '78 C-161 with a Briggs twin. It sat in my dad's basement for 8 years. I got it out, cleaned it up, and got it running about 6 months ago. It's always been noticeable since I've been using it the last few months. I can't remember if it did this when I used to mow with it at home 35 years ago. 

 

 After I didn't have any luck after I replaced the belt I took it to the Wheel Horse dealer where I bought the belt and they said all it needed was a clutch spring so I ordered one and installed it. Like I said above that seemed to help but it still seems to slip in high gear. 

 

My dad was a stickler so the tractor is in very good, original condition. I don't have any pics with the belt guard off but here is the tractor for reference. I added the larger rear tires with antifreeze in them. The tractor acted the same before and after the tire change. image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg

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roadapples

Check the roll pin in the clutch lever at the trans.

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doc724

I have a 1978 C141 and I found that the clutch idler had a broken weld.  Sometimes it was fine, other times not. Could have been a one off manufacturing problem, but I doubt it

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dclarke

Craig, have you checked to see if the new belt is riding on the bottom of the pulley? Maybe the new belt isn't wide enough? 

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cschannuth
23 minutes ago, dclarke said:

Craig, have you checked to see if the new belt is riding on the bottom of the pulley? Maybe the new belt isn't wide enough? 

I will check. I just assumed that would not be the case since it is supposed to be the correct OEM belt.

2 hours ago, doc724 said:

I have a 1978 C141 and I found that the clutch idler had a broken weld.  Sometimes it was fine, other times not. Could have been a one off manufacturing problem, but I doubt it

 My idler seems to be fine. What type of weld was the problem?Was the idler not moving back-and-forth properly or was the actual pulley the issue?

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gwest_ca

https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro/mowers-lawn-garden-tractor/81-16b801-c-161-toro-c-161-twin-8-speed-tractor-1978/clutch-brake-and-speed-control-linkage_2/

 

The spring pulls on 18 so the roll pin #17 and #16 where the lever is welded to the round bar is suspect.

 

Garry

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roadapples
1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro/mowers-lawn-garden-tractor/81-16b801-c-161-toro-c-161-twin-8-speed-tractor-1978/clutch-brake-and-speed-control-linkage_2/

 

The spring pulls on 18 so the roll pin #17 and #16 where the lever is welded to the round bar is suspect.

 

Garry

#17 is what I was referring to....

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doc724
6 hours ago, cschannuth said:

I will check. I just assumed that would not be the case since it is supposed to be the correct OEM belt.

 My idler seems to be fine. What type of weld was the problem?Was the idler not moving back-and-forth properly or was the actual pulley the issue?

 

The weld broke on part #16 where the flat bar was welded to the round rod.  The weld was pretty poor, not much penetration and not full 360 degrees

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cschannuth

Thanks!

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Lagersolut

Let me be the first to say , nice :wh:  .......nice diggers too .

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