Restoring B-100 71-10K801

[obone 142]

Hello,

I have been reading this forum for a year or so. I got a B-100 71-10K801 about 2 years back from my dad. I have been spending nights after work repairing it with my kids. Just a small list of what we've done so far. Please keep in mind this is a long term project. I plan to use this GREAT TRACTOR all year round. So once we finish it I will be adding a few add-ons. IE tiller, snow blower and a blade. It was kept outside for a few years. So I had to remove the fin covers and clean out the fun stuff left behind from our furry friends. (Had the kids do this part). I had to remove the mod job for the lights. I will be replacing the wiring and lights later. I had to replace the stop pin. The threads were smashed. (On order) I replaced the battery added a fuse holder. Replaced the oil in the engine and transmission/trans axial. Greased the four points. Replaced air filter and spark plug. Replaced the gas line and filter. Had to move over a pin the wire that feeds 12V to the ignition coil. For some reason it was hooked to the accessory of the key switch. So it was only getting 12V to the coil when it was in run not start. Now it gets 12V in start and run mode. If this is wrong please let me know. Still need to find a steering wheel and tires or tubes. Not all tires are bad, but they all go flat after a few weeks. (One in a day). I have downloaded a bunch of pdf's from this site and what a great help. This is my first tractor. It did come with a mowing deck. I will post pictures as soon as I can. Next year I would like to rebuild the engine and maybe paint the tractor.

[Racinbob 11,040]

Most definitely...............

[SylvanLakeWH 25,490]

[DougC 2,641]

I like your attitude and your patience and your saving a    so    to        and enjoy the forum and your new family project!!!   

[N3PUY 1,031]

  

" Greased the four points."      Look for 2 more grease fittings......  one at the front axle pivot and one at the bottom of the steering shaft.

Oil holes or grease fittings on clutch and brake pedals.

[rmaynard 15,427]

  I have owned four B-100's since 1993. One is my daily worker, a 1977, one was a 1976 that I restored and sold, one was a 1975 B-100 Automatic that was bought at auction and sold six months later, and my pride and joy is my 71-10K801 pictured in my avatar. This was my first attempt at a build/restoration. It was built from scrap over the winter and spring of 2009/2010. If you search the forum, you will find documentation of the build. So, my knowledge of the B-100's is pretty good, and if you have any questions or problems along your path of restoration, don't hesitate to contact me. I will be more than happy to share that knowledge. 

[obone 142]

Thanks for the welcomes! I found the four. Just not the two for the pedals. When I did the transmission oil change I found the plug that is the fill. I just could not find the one people talk about that take an Allen head on the bottom. So I have not refilled it yet. It's a uni-drive 2988185. I want to make sure I get it all. I will jack it up again if there's another drain plug I missed. There's a hitch add on that may be in the way. I did not want to take it off f I don't have to. Thanks again.

Edited October 5, 2016 by obone
PN change and pictures added

[jay bee 896]

 to

My favorite tractor also is my 1976 B-100 8-speed as seen in my avatar.  I bought this tractor new in '76 and swear that it is one the best buys of my life.  Keep the pictures

coming.

 

Jim

[rmaynard 15,427]

The drain plug with the Allen head is on the bottom of the transmission, just to the left of and in front of the part of the hitch that rests against the bottom of the transmission. It is probably covered in dirt and oil. Once emptied, the new oil should be put in through either the dipstick tube or the shifter hole (with the shifter removed). Two quarts is what it takes to fill it.

[obone 142]

3 more questions:

1st Most of the manuals I downloaded say to gap the plug at 0.025", but one says to gap it at 0.035". Which is correct? 

2nd The engine manual says to oil the air precleaner, but the Kohler_K241_Ser_Man says not to. Which is correct?

3rd In one manual it says to use 140 weight in the transmission, yet in another it says to use 90 weight and in another it says 90-140 weight. At Napa they said "never heard of 90 weight" So I got 85-140 weight. Which is correct? Most threads I read say 90-140 weight. (I will be using 85-140 weight for the first few hours after I finish a proper drain).

Just a side note I only downloaded the manuals that had my model number K241 or 10k801. I know that Toro says there updated info may be different then the manuals, but I have no idea which manual is newer. Model numbers are K241S 46756D and 71-10K801. Again THANKS for the HELP!! 

Edited November 2, 2016 by obone

[obone 142]

Ok got a lot done. Set plug gap to .035". Lightly oiled pre filter. Had to remove both hitches to get to transmission plug. Took my son 45 minutes to fill it. I may have started it, but found out real quick that the tube used to check it's level fills up fast or over fills... Lost about 1\4 of a bottle so I let the kid do it right. Only took him 15 minutes to put both hitches back on. I tried to start, but had gas coming out the bottom of the tank. So I bought some stuff to fix it. But when I went to the dealer to pick up the boot (which you know you've found the right guy when all you do is give him the 4 digit number and he says oh you rebuilding a Wheel Horse). I told him about my possible fix for the tank and he open one of his many drawers and pulled out two parts T0104048 fuel valve and SS125336 rubber fuel tank bushing. Only cost me 21 dollars and was way faster and better then the way I was going to do it. Needless to say after putting all these parts on it fired right up. A week later I was able to drive it outside and went through all the gears. Runs great! Still need to pick up 2 front wheels and a steering wheel.

Edited November 2, 2016 by obone
pics

[jay bee 896]

It sounds like you found a good parts guy and in my opinion, that is usually a lot of free information whenever you go in to get some parts.  Sounds like you are moving right along on your project.  Good luck.

 

Jim

[obone 142]

Small update and 1 question:

Started to remove the muffler and cut myself. So that put things on hold. While I wait I was wonder if someone knows what's a good material and thickness for the fuel pump diaphragm? So any help would be great. I wanted to add that I was able to get the muffler (pepper pot) 5 bucks, air filter 10 bucks, Kohler oil 5 bucks a quart, front tire tubes 10 bucks each and back tubes 16 bucks each. I got this at Rural King. They even carry the tires 34 bucks for each front and about 60ish for the backs each.

Edited November 7, 2016 by obone

[obone 142]

So with the down time. I tried soaking it with pb, heated till it smoked (not red to chicken) and used 2 wrenches. Nothing would work. I ended up cutting it off then cutting slots into it toward the block. I used a pin punch at 45 degrees to smash it into the block. I was able to grab it with pliers and pull it out. I really really hate rusted stuff. Took my son a few hours with a round wire brush and oil to clean out the rust. I had to take a paper towel tube and cut it long ways rolling into and funnel tape it then tape it to the vacuum in order to get inside of the exhaust port. So many hours on just one task.

 

Edited November 13, 2016 by obone
Can not fix last picture.

[rmaynard 15,427]

The fuel pump diaphragm itself is not replaceable. You must get a complete assembly with the metal plates and rod.  Kits cost about $35.00 and may may not fix your problem. If the diaphragm is bad, you will be better off replacing the whole pump since they only cost about $40 from Amazon.com.

[obone 142]

@rmaynard Thanks for the information. Your talking about the ones from Then and Now? I heard they may or may not fit. I was going to try there second, but will go there first now. Since I can not replace the diaphragm material. (Thanks for saving me a lot of trouble) Do you or anyone know how to tell which one you have so I can order the right one? I wanted to try and repair it before I replaced it with an electric one to keep it close to what it was. Not full OEM, but close. I was hoping not to open it until I had the repair part in hand since it works well. Again Thanks!

[rmaynard 15,427]

I have used the Then and Now kits and found them to be "hit or miss". Unless they have retooled their punch, the holes in the diaphragm material don't line up with the holes in the castings. 

[obone 142]

OK so I finally got the tires switched. Only took me about 3 weeks. I almost gave up, but when I asked a tire shop they said 20 bucks each and they would also be using hand tools. So I knew I would have to clean them and that was a lot of money. I used all thread and 2x4 to make a frame and crush the tire. I also had to use a 3 lb sledge and a small bar to beat the bead down. PB blast helped too. I had to use my vibration saw and bolt cutters after I broke the beads. Then me and my son spent an afternoon with the drills and wire wheels cleaning them up. It took 5 days with Rust-Oleum to paint them. And a alot of kerosene. Since the weather is so nice I was also able to put the blade on that I got from a member. I am so happy.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 21, 2017 by obone

[SylvanLakeWH 25,490]

Nice Job! 

 

Wow do they look good!

 

 

Next time may want to try Discount Tire - They did all 4 of mine - removal and replace with new tubes / tires for $12/tire...Worth every penny.

 

[c-series don 8,663]

As far as Then and Now kits go there are 2 different size diaphragms that they offer and they're only about 1/8" difference in size. I bought one a couple of months ago and it works great. 

[obone 142]

That's cool. I am planning on getting one. I just didn't want to take it apart yet. Since it works and I was just able to use it. I have not noticed gas in the oil, but since gas eats the old diaphragms and my dad said if I don't turn off the gas it will all leak out. Plus allot of people on this site seem to have had the same issue. I was just going to do the repair for 30 bucks why not.

[c-series don 8,663]

I wanted to keep my original cast aluminum pump housing so I got the rebuild kit, so far so good!