WNYPCRepair 1,923 #1 Posted September 22, 2016 So, I am finally putting the NOS engine in my 520-H But when I started to connect the regulator, I had these two wires connected together On my other 520-H, the red wire is on the center terminal, and the gray and black are connected together and then connected to an outside terminal, and black to the other outside terminal. This engine is actually a Linamar, the company that bought Onan, but otherwise it is the exact engine. Can anyone clarify the connections to the regulator? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,923 #2 Posted September 22, 2016 Hmm... Looking at the wiring diagram, it shows the double wires on the center terminal, but my other two 520 engines have it on the outside terminal Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt-NEPA 755 #3 Posted September 22, 2016 Brian, There is an error in the wiring manual. It should look like this. My 1995 520H has a red wire from B+ to the fuse. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,923 #4 Posted September 22, 2016 3 minutes ago, Kurt-NEPA said: Brian, There is an error in the wiring manual. It should look like this. My 1995 520H has a red wire from B+ to the fuse. I was just discussing it with a friend, and we decided no way it would work as the diagram shows. Thanks for confirming Tomorrow, I hook up the wires and put the fuel tank on and see how it runs. Break in procedure, anyone? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt-NEPA 755 #5 Posted September 22, 2016 Here is a picture of my 1995 520H wiring at the regulator/rectifier - BTW. that is one fantastic looking Onan 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,923 #6 Posted September 22, 2016 5 minutes ago, Kurt-NEPA said: Here is a picture of my 1995 520H wiring at the regulator/rectifier - BTW. that is one fantastic looking Onan That is exactly what both of mine look like. Thanks, I paid top dollar for it. I'll never be able to sell my 520-H, with all the money I have in it now, LOL Didn't I buy a 520-H off of you? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt-NEPA 755 #7 Posted September 22, 2016 I know the feeling about too much money into a tractor. I have 4 of them. Oh well, its cheaper than a psychiatrist. The good thing is that each tractor is earning its keep. And yes you did buy a 1993 from me. Hope it works for you. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,923 #8 Posted September 22, 2016 6 minutes ago, Kurt-NEPA said: I know the feeling about too much money into a tractor. I have 4 of them. Oh well, its cheaper than a psychiatrist. The good thing is that each tractor is earning its keep. And yes you did buy a 1993 from me. Hope it works for you. Yeah, I bought mine as a worker, so I guess as long as it lasts, it will be worth it. I thought so. I'm pulling the exhaust and PTO off it to use on the engine I took out of mine, which I will put in the 93 you sold me. Then I will probably sell the 93 engine for parts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt-NEPA 755 #9 Posted September 22, 2016 That is what a parts tractor is for. Take what you need and sell the rest. Keep us posted on that new Onan. I would love to have one. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,923 #10 Posted September 24, 2016 Got the regulator wiring straightened out, and now it charges, and the tach works, but the tack needle starts at 1,000 RPM, and goes up from there. It starts at 1,000 regardless of ignition switch position. Has anyone seen this before? Also, any tips on engine break in, and /or removing the drive pulley? I was going to use a gear puller, just want to be sure I'm not missing anything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt-NEPA 755 #11 Posted September 24, 2016 On removing the pulley. Assuming its the drive pulley on the donor engine. Remove the hoop and brake and the pulley should pull off the shaft (#40). That sleeve is held in place by the parts #42, just remove 4 bolts, pull off parts #42 and the sleeve (#40) will pull off. Often it takes a bit of persuasion to get it out of #43. If its coming off the 520H I sold you, it should come apart easily as I had it off to replace the crank seal. I also replaced bearing #36, bearing #38 was in good condition Hope that helps. Kurt 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,923 #12 Posted September 24, 2016 1 hour ago, Kurt-NEPA said: On removing the pulley. Assuming its the drive pulley on the donor engine. Remove the hoop and brake and the pulley should pull off the shaft (#40). That sleeve is held in place by the parts #42, just remove 4 bolts, pull off parts #42 and the sleeve (#40) will pull off. Often it takes a bit of persuasion to get it out of #43. If its coming off the 520H I sold you, it should come apart easily as I had it off to replace the crank seal. I also replaced bearing #36, bearing #38 was in good condition Hope that helps. Kurt I'm down to part #43, and it does not want to give, despite a week of soaking with Kroil every few hours. And of course, I can't find my gear puller. Guess I'll have to go buy one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,923 #13 Posted September 24, 2016 OK, bought a hydraulic gear puller, made short work of the drive pulley. Got it all back together. Next year is paint all the tins. New motor starts immediately, and purrs like a kitten. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt-NEPA 755 #14 Posted September 24, 2016 Sounds fantastic! Well done. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,498 #15 Posted September 24, 2016 Job well done Brian. Yo Kurt, see what I did to myself? The 520-8 killer project. And now I want another one, like you said, cheaper than a shrink. Why do I keep going to the Shrink? Lol Hey, I bought a 2 stage to, I think it's out by you, Dallas, Pa. Glenn 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt-NEPA 755 #16 Posted September 25, 2016 43 minutes ago, JERSEYHAWG / Glenn said: Yo Kurt, see what I did to myself? The 520-8 killer project. And now I want another one, like you said, cheaper than a shrink. Why do I keep going to the Shrink? Lol Hey, I bought a 2 stage to, I think it's out by you, Dallas, Pa. Glenn Hey there Glenn. I saw you bought that 520-8. Sounds like a great project. Keep us posted. But another one too, you have the disease my friend. I saw that two-stage on CL. Looked like it was brand new. You are right about the location - about 15 miles from me. Kurt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,923 #17 Posted September 25, 2016 I looked at that 2 stage at one point. The tach was bad, by the way. Taped my old one back together with electrical tape, hooked it up and it works perfectly. I'll have to keep my eyes open for a new tach. Thanks, guys. If it weren't so hot this summer, I would have had this done, but it was too hot to be outside for long periods. This was one hot summer for us. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt-NEPA 755 #18 Posted September 25, 2016 43 minutes ago, WNYPCRepair said: I looked at that 2 stage at one point. The tach was bad, by the way. Taped my old one back together with electrical tape, hooked it up and it works perfectly. I'll have to keep my eyes open for a new tach. Thanks, guys. If it weren't so hot this summer, I would have had this done, but it was too hot to be outside for long periods. This was one hot summer for us. The tach on my 1988 520H is bad just like yours. Minor issue for a worker, but I keep looking for one at a reasonable price. I hear you the heat this summer, I been putting off projects waiting for something cooler. Today was much better and I started on a trailer hitch - going to mount a rear weight platform to counter balance my two-stage. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,923 #19 Posted September 25, 2016 29 minutes ago, Kurt-NEPA said: The tach on my 1988 520H is bad just like yours. Minor issue for a worker, but I keep looking for one at a reasonable price. I hear you the heat this summer, I been putting off projects waiting for something cooler. Today was much better and I started on a trailer hitch - going to mount a rear weight platform to counter balance my two-stage. I thought about doing that, but my two stage is on the GT22 and between the tractor's weight, wheel weights, and my fat butt, it did OK last winter. But I don't have any hills. Last winter was mild though, so I still may make a hitch I can use with the blower, and use my FEL ballast for traction in winter, just in case. I do need to do something to be able to add weight to the front of the 520 though, I use it for plowing, and steering is pretty much non-existant. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt-NEPA 755 #20 Posted September 25, 2016 10 hours ago, WNYPCRepair said: I thought about doing that, but my two stage is on the GT22 and between the tractor's weight, wheel weights, and my fat butt, it did OK last winter. But I don't have any hills. Last winter was mild though, so I still may make a hitch I can use with the blower, and use my FEL ballast for traction in winter, just in case. I do need to do something to be able to add weight to the front of the 520 though, I use it for plowing, and steering is pretty much non-existant. My driveway goes down hill from the house. Going down is fine until I have to back up. When I lift the blower (single or double) it takes weight off the rear axle and the tires spin - even with chains on. My fat butt in the seat and 70 lb. wheel weights help a bit. I'm hoping some ballast out back will do the trick. I've had front wheel problems with plowing too. That's why I went with blowers. Even my bigger tractors had the problem. I thought about adding chains and filling the tires. Of course if this winter is like last year, it won't matter. We average about 50" here, but last year got about 6" most of it in 1" increments. Hard to justify my investment in blowers and plows that way. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ACman 7,624 #21 Posted September 27, 2016 On September 22, 2016 at 5:39 PM, WNYPCRepair said: This engine is actually a Linamar, the company that bought Onan, but otherwise it is the exact engine. Linamar of Canada bought the performer line of Onan but couldn't meet emissions and are no longer produced . Onan is owned by Cummings and has been since 1992 . I was reading your thread and have a friend who worked for Cummings/Onan building gen.sets and testing prototype engines and turbos . At one point there were testing a small single cylinder two stroke turbocharged diesel engine spinning up to 20,000 rpms . Let's just say the oversea company that produces these prototype engines for Cummings didn't hold there tolerances and liked to grenade on the dyno . I know of one that made it out of the building . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites