wallfish 17,492 #26 Posted September 13, 2016 2 hours ago, gwest_ca said: I only looked at one of the wiring diagrams for a 2002 model 268-H that also uses the 92-6785 switch and it has magneto ignition as stated by Wallfish. But it also has a kill relay powered by the "I" terminal of the battery ignition switch which opens the relay contacts so the motor will run. Ignition turned OFF and the contacts close on a ground contact. Ah Ha. So even though it is marked with the "M" it is still providing power like the switches with the "I" terminal? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,243 #27 Posted September 13, 2016 26 minutes ago, wallfish said: Ah Ha. So even though it is marked with the "M" it is still providing power like the switches with the "I" terminal? There should not be a M terminal on the 92-6785 switch. To be honest I've never seen the terminals stamped with the ID letters. They have always been on the insulated backing cover. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,553 #28 Posted September 13, 2016 Garry, Ive got a box full of the stamped terminal type. They get very hard to read after some age. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,492 #29 Posted September 13, 2016 24 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: There should not be a M terminal on the 92-6785 switch. To be honest I've never seen the terminals stamped with the ID letters. They have always been on the insulated backing cover. But his pic of his new 92-6785 shows a M marked on it, so I assume it is also marked M on the terminal. Now wonder if that switch is truly a 92-6785 Newer switches are now marked right on the terminals, at least the ones I have seen are like that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Woodsman 3 #30 Posted September 13, 2016 Well, I have some preliminary results to share. Everyone turn to his right and pat the back of the fella' next to you because it's been a group effort, for sure. Lots of good information from all of you and I've learned far more about this ignition than I thought I'd ever have to. I've got it connected and points are not grounding out. To top it off, I have a nice spark and there's been no fire yet. The trick was all in the connections and de-mystifying the terminals. The extra terminals on the PTO & light switch made it a little difficult but poke enough with a test light and it seems to make sense. For future reference, here they are on this tractor. The letters in parenthesis are from the drawing Uncle Gary provided. B (large pole unmarked on this switch) - Battery (ammeter) G(L) - Lights/PTO M (I)- Rectifier A (R)- ignition(coil) S(S)- Start I've yet to button it up and more adventure may yet lay ahead. For now, this mystery is solved and you all deserve a cold beverage of choice. I'm choosing a cold bottle of Busch light and toasting the great group that makes up RedSquare. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,492 #31 Posted September 13, 2016 So it is running now? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,243 #32 Posted September 13, 2016 You have this B (large pole unmarked on this switch) - Battery (ammeter) G (L) - Lights/PTO M (I)- Rectifier A (R)- ignition(coil) S (S)- Start This way you should not have any power to the coil when cranking the starter but will have the regulator output connected to the Battery + which is not needed when cranking. Shouldn't it be ? B (large pole unmarked on this switch) - Battery (ammeter) G (L) - Lights/PTO A (R)- Rectifier M (I)- ignition(coil) S (S)- Start Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,492 #33 Posted September 13, 2016 My next question was going to be if it is charging the battery? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Woodsman 3 #34 Posted September 14, 2016 Gary and wallfish are both a step ahead of me. First of all, it does start and runs with the configuration I provided. Unfortunately, the ammeter doesn't move and the lights flicker. Battery is 12V both with the machine running and off, so it is not charging. Apparently I spoke too soon and there's still some tinkering to do. I was just happy to finally get spark. I shouldn't have jumped the gun. Ugh. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Woodsman 3 #35 Posted September 15, 2016 After I read Gary's last note, things made more sense. The tractor was starting, but only as I let off the key, then it slowly lumbered to life - as it wasn't getting spark during the crank. Today I printed off his instructions, pulled all connections and started over. It fired up nicely and everything works and battery seems to holding a charge. (My ammeter is dead and time will tell unless you can suggest a test for it). I would swear this is the configuration I started with before points were grounding out. I did replace two more wires during my panic and perhaps that was my issue all along. It seems like a lot of babble on my part for such a simple issue as following instructions. I did contact the Toro dealer I got the switch from and he told me the old switches were marked with an I on the ignition terminal, but that the new style is marked with an M, yet work with battery ignition. At least that point has been made. I still have an issue with starting the motor close to TDC despite valve adjustment but I'll thoroughly check out the engine forum before going arm-waving-wild on that topic. Thanks again to all of you for all the help! -Woodsman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,243 #36 Posted September 15, 2016 9 hours ago, Woodsman said: I did contact the Toro dealer I got the switch from and he told me the old switches were marked with an I on the ignition terminal, but that the new style is marked with an M, yet work with battery ignition. At least that point has been made. That is a very dangerous situation. One picks that switch up thinking it will work for their magneto ignition and once it is used poof - the magic smoke is released from the magneto ignition coil. The only difference between an I terminal and a M terminal is the letter stamped into it and the wrong one was installed at assembly time. A similar situation occurred with the 3-position switch and it generated a service bulletin Now you have it figured out you may want to add the 105302 plastic connector that holds the wires at the ignition switch. https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro/parts/105302/ It is also available from Napa and others with wires and terminals. https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/viewproduct.asp?i=&p=1326 If the ammeter requires replacement you may want to replace with a less expensive and more common voltmeter. They are wired differently but easily explained and tell you a lot more about the condition of the charging system. Good work you've done here.. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
