What to check before buying??

[Rustyred 63]

Hi everyone,

 

I'm going to be checking out 3 used Wheel Horses in the next days and deciding which to buy. All are around $300 and are 1979 - 1985 tractors. All three are with different owners and the owners have not seen these machines run. Interestingly each person says: "the guy I got it from says it runs."

 

I am wanting a tractor to work on, and fix up - so I'm not scared of that - but I'm sure there are things to look for which would make some of you experienced guys say - no that ones not for me!

 

That said, does someone want to list the most basic things YOU would check on a wheel horse of that era before purchasing?

 

Thought I'd at least ask. Seems to me others who use this forum might benefit as well...

 

THANKS

[TDF5G 2,069]

  I'm the first to reply and probably not the best one to give advice on purchases but I suggest you buy all 3 of them.  An extra tractor or two around is good for reference or parts for fixing up others.  The models from those eras, C series, 300, 400, 500 series have a lot of mechanical parts that interchange, including the attachments.  

 

I've never seen a cracked frame, but some of the guys here say to check it where the transmission mounts for breaks or cracks.  You want to look for obvious things also like smoke from the engine, leaks, or visual damage.  Run the transmission through all the gears on a stick shift.  (I don't have much experience with the hydros) There is going to be some wear on it, most likely the seat, foot rests, tie rods, steering, pto, tach-a-matic mounts, etc., which can all be repaired along with clogged or dirty fuel systems which is a common problem.  If you are looking at mower decks, check for rust through.  

 

And always ask if the seller has the manuals for the tractor.  A lot of people do, but don't think to pass them along to the new owner.  

Edited September 8, 2016 by TDF5G

[CasualObserver 3,408]

Not just manuals... ask about any  attachments that went with it that they may have forgotten about... belt guards, belts, springs, hitches and lift links. Many times these get separated and/or are stored away from the tractor.... out of sight, out of mind.

 

Other than that... It's $300 for a 30-35 year old garden tractor. I'd check mostly for trans issues, welds or bolt-on patches, extra holes or DIY modifications. Parts for the years you're talking about are pretty readily had.

[pfrederi 17,700]

I would heavily discount a non running hydro.  If you can test a hydro ...get it hot put it up against in immovable object and see if it will spin its wheels.that's different.  A worn out hydro can be expensive to fix.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

"Heavy discount" for a non-running hydro!  Heavy!  Especially an XI or D series!  And not just to drive around but to work, like pushing an "immovable object"!  Nice if it starts right up and doesn't smoke when warm and working or revving and down and driving around.  You might offer less and worry less.  A $200 tractor that might work is still more than likely worth $200 in parts, even if it doesn't work.

[953 nut 55,163]

  Since you said they all are non-running  you have to figure there may be a few issues that will need attention. Pull the dipstick out and look at the oil, see that it will turn over and has compression. You will want to have a set of jumper cables with you for this. As stated by others the Hydro Trans. can't be tested without it running so all you can do is smell the oil and see if it smells burnt; if so, turn and run. If it is a stick shift you can run the shifter through the gears and jack up one wheel and see that there is a transfer of motion from the wheel to the input pulley (with someone pushing down on the clutch) in all gears.

 

My number one consideration is the completeness of the tractor, if parts have been removed it could cost more to replace them than the purchase price. A good set of tires is a good sign, general condition can indicate what you are likely to encounter. 

 

One final point,      

[DougC 2,641]

If they don't run and the owner says the guy I bought it from says it runs means they could not get it to run or took it to someone who tried to get it to run.... I would just assume you will need a motor......

Unless you could talk them down to a hundred bucks and the tractor was complete I would keep looking.   

 

[ACman 7,618]

 all that ! For me I'd take a jumpbox with air compressor if you have one . Remember somethings you can't jump a bad battery . Take some tools , flashlight , carb cleaner , and small jack . Like @DougC said why didn't they get them to run , so start with a low bid (like cut them off at the knees bid) . The only tractors I've paid over $250 are my RJ58 with a whole folder full of receipts and the restored 753 . I feel if I can pick up a tractor for $200 or less (running or not but in good shape) I shouldn't loose money if I have to resell or part out . 

 

GOOD LUCK and   of all them if possible 

[kudzu3 323]

"The guy I got it from says it runs"...I'd look somewhere else. Just my opinion

[SylvanLakeWH 25,525]

2 hours ago, kudzu3 said:

"The guy I got it from says it runs"...I'd look somewhere else. Just my opinion

 

That's the Craigslist Two-Step... Usually along with "I'm selling it for my..."

[slammer302 2,155]

Sense you are are buying a fixer upper i would mainly look for a complete tractor not missing any parts at least you will have something to work with if its all their.

[ohiofarmer 3,265]

 Take your own battery and battery bolts and just take the crap battery that is already in there and set it aside. Now remove the air cleaner and use a lacquer thinner based carb cleaner and give it a squirt. Crank it to see if it fires. You need to at least hear some fire in the hole as the motor hits a few licks. By the way, the carb cleaner is much easier on the tractor than starting ether is...

 

 These guys selling these mowers told the guys they bought them from that they would give them a cheap price for a non-running machine, yet they expect you to give them prices for a runner. I bought a cast iron Kohler 10 for three bllls and it ran as demonstrated by the owner. Replaced the belts and it is now my favorite mower. Patience is the key. Sooner or later some older guy who stepped up to a big zero turn will want to sell a decent tractor and this tractor will be one he knows personally.

[Ed Kennell 38,114]

You have been given a lot of good info on what to look for so I won't add to that list.

I agree with AC Man,    For a non runner, I  would not  pay over $100 unless it is a rare tractor or there are parts on the tractor that add value.  ie  sleeve and clevis hitches, axle brackets,  hydro lifts, electric PTO clutches. etc.   Then if it ends up not being restorable, you could part it out and possibly make some money or keep it as a parts tractor for you next project.  

 

                                                                                                

  

[Tonyp 284]

ok , my take along with whats been mentioned. A $300 tractor sounds like a good deal, you  know, too good to pass on until you get it home.Then you learn in a NY minute why it is $300.  Also  remember you are not the only one looking at  these $300 tractors, You did not discover gold, odds are someone else has already passed.  

 

I realize this is a $300 tractor, but these things still apply because a $300 tractor can turn into a $1000 tractor in a hurry. 

 

I use a checklist when buying  cars, it's the same checklist  for a $2500  VW or a $25,000  Corvette.

 

1- if it doesn't run  assume it doesn't run or serious motor issues and thats why it's advertised as non running, make an attempt to get it running

2- check the tires for dry rot and excessive wear

3-pull the dip stick on both the motor and transaxle , you will learn a lot right there

4- rust, outdoor wear from sitting under a half of a cover for the last 15 years

5-belts ? Frayed , missing ? Wrong ? 

6-torn or missing seat 

7- front end steering play ? 

8-attachments ? deck etc..rust ?  extreme rust ? Wheels ? Blades ? Spindles ? 

9 -pulleys?  do they  spin or are they frozen or real gritty

10- frame built or chassis built ? 

 

Each of these items, while alone may not appear to be much, but add them all up and you are getting into a wallet full of cash. 

 

for me personally I walk from any project tractor that does not run or the seller can't  get started. I wanna see it run. 

 

All this being said, with all the negative items on the check list ,  if you can grab a worthy project  for $300 go for it. Use the list like a grocery list, pick and choose whats important  and whats not. 

 

Restoring an old Wheel Horse can be  both fun and satisfying but knowing what your getting is fundamental or there will be no fun.  

 

I will say this though, over the years I have probably dragged home a dozen old Wheel Horses in project shape, each one did run though. I sold each one and with each sale the buyer wanted to see them run. A running tractor eliminates the biggest concern. Most folks looking at projects are looking for specific  parts, OR, a motor !  

 

For comparison only, I very recently picked up a 2004 315-8 ( Toro label on the 300 Series Wheel Horse) paid $950 for a complete and excellent running machine with 400 hours. I did tear it all down  for cleaning, lube and ALL fluid changes. About $50 in cash for maintenance materials and 10 or 15 hours of SLOW labor.  A few years back I restored my 1987 /310-8, same thing,  maintenance ,  fluids , belts, PAINT and about 30 hours of slow labor. That machine is still in full service  although the deck has some rust holes. Motor wise , over 1700 hours, Kohler Mag 10, it runs strong, burns no oil but does have a finicky fuel pump which I will replace. 

 

The older models are indeed great fun , just know what you are buying and whats ahead of you before you pull the trigger .

 

Good luck, best to you on your journey.

Edited September 10, 2016 by Tonyp

[Howie 886]

I am probably a little different on this but I would check engine over and piston still moves up and down I would not have to much of an issue with the non

running engine. I do all of my engine work internal and all so fixing one is not a huge issue for me. If a person has to have the work done, look for one that

runs. But I also would not want to pay a lot for one that does not run. Around here about 45 miles from where they were built I have not found a lot of cheap

tractors.