Indiana_Steve 124 #1 Posted September 4, 2016 I would like to use my blade as a dozer but when I try and push dirt the blade folds over (as its supposed to do). I there something I can do to stop this short of welding the blade up right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #2 Posted September 4, 2016 its the springs doing that you can weld it and it will stop. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #3 Posted September 4, 2016 Hook a piece of chain from the plow frame to the top hole that the spring hooks into- then just remove it when you want to plow snow again- Good Luck!- Al 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,745 #4 Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) Easiest thing to do... take off both springs. Find a piece of 1/4" FLAT STEEL the same length as the spring...1 1/4" wide or so. Use the spring as a template to DRILL 1/2" holes in each end of the flat stock steel. Note that the holes will need to be close to the edge ...about 1/4"... and close to the end of the flat stock too, by about 1/4" When the flat stock is drilled at ends, use them in place of the springs. You will have to use a few spacer nuts on each of the spring rods, but the blade will NOT EVER fold down or back again. I've had this on my C-160 for a decade or more. Edited September 4, 2016 by daveoman1966 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,040 #5 Posted September 4, 2016 I've pushed many, many yards of dirt just about 30 miles from you Steve and never had a problem. You shouldn't need to 'override' the springs and I wouldn't suggest it. Can you post a picture of how yours is set up? Just maybe there's something out of wack. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,548 #6 Posted September 4, 2016 One thing to keep in mind if overriding the springs, the blade frame mounts to the transaxle. Pushing too much with the blade can crack the transmission to frame mount. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slammer302 2,155 #7 Posted September 4, 2016 I agree with Racinbob I have never really had any problems the only time my springs trip is when I hit something solid. These blades are made for moving loose dirt and gravel they are not made to break ground. But I have broke packed dirt up just had to be patient and start in one spot and keep working it over with the edge of the blade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Indiana_Steve 124 #8 Posted September 4, 2016 Thanks for the ideas and suggestions. Racinbob my blade is set up to the vertical position. I just didn't know if my 50+ year old springs were maybe weak. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,706 #9 Posted September 4, 2016 I've broken up dirt, etc with a mold board plow or a cultivator 1st and then attacked with the blade. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,020 #10 Posted September 6, 2016 You need one of these! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prondzy 3,881 #11 Posted September 6, 2016 If you hard mount the blade you are increasing the chance to brake hard parts, i.e. frame, transmission gears, etc. Post pics of what you have going on, the only other suggestion would be adding a second set of plow springs to decrease the likelihood of it folding over, but still will if you hit something hard enough. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Indiana_Steve 124 #12 Posted September 6, 2016 I should elaborate, I'm not trying to move hard dirt but debris like grass clippings and plant debris that I have piled up and want to push into a field. I like the chain idea to stabilize the blade, simple yet effective and not permanent. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shallowwatersailor 3,213 #13 Posted September 7, 2016 Are the trip springs in the top hole? Try taking less of a bite with the blade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uncle Buck 246 #14 Posted September 11, 2016 I think you are begging for trouble if you hard mount your blade. If you have the blade set up as firmly as it can be set up and it still will not do the job then you need a heavier machine than what you have. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #15 Posted September 12, 2016 Do not override what the springs are trying to protect! Your gonads! Your frame mount to the trans! Your trans! Do not expect Cat Dozer performace from your WH "dozer" blade! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Xearl 131 #16 Posted September 17, 2016 There are 3 ? Mount holes for the springs . Try moving to a different hole. Flops over take another shot at it with less of a bite. I have,used the blade,to do truck loads of stone dust . Back blading. It does,a,great job. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Indiana_Steve 124 #17 Posted September 17, 2016 I have tried them all. Someone in the past had replaced the wear strip with a heavy duty one so am wondering if that is part of the problem with the extra weight. It is one hunk of steel. Unfortunately I don't have a picture. It's almost 3/4" thick and of course 54" long. Heavy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry77 1,218 #18 Posted October 16, 2016 Don't override the built in protection....you just: https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=jaws you're going to need a bigger boat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #19 Posted October 17, 2016 A mid-mount grader blade is an excellent working implement. I don't have one for a Horse but do have one for my Allis-Chalmers. Added a 16 hp engine and ag's on all fours. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #20 Posted October 18, 2016 That a one of those high tech alien "Predator" engines? I think I saw it move! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
