953 nut 55,934 #26 Posted August 25, 2016 Any good auto parts or hardware ( perhaps even HD or Lowe's ) should carry the brass or stainless steel internal hex plug like the original or an external low profile one. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harvest2112 9 #27 Posted August 28, 2016 Hi again, guys. Well, out of the frying pan and into the fire, so to speak. - I tried to use a pipe wrench but I could not get a good grip on it. - I purchased an easy out set and I could not get it to bite into the bolt. I kept drilling it deeper to try and get the easy out to bite but ended up drilling through the plug. - After it drained, I drilled it out with a 3/8" bit and tried to punch the sides of the bolt so it would collapse. I am guessing that I didn't drill it thin enough and when I tried to punch it out on the side, it just sheared off most of the remaining bolt metal from the outside of the trans case, not much metal to work with now Should I drill the entire hole out with a larger size and try to retap to a bigger bolt? That's the only option I can think of now because I am sure there are some metal shavings left in the trans (the remains of the bolt are higher than the case so I don't think I could flush the metal out). Can I even drill out and tap the bottom of the trans or is it cast iron and super hard to do by hand (and upside down)? If that route does work, what size should I go with and what kind of plug/bolt could I use? I was thinking also of just JB Welding it closed for now but the possible metal shavings worry me, I'm pretty bummed about this whole thing. Turned out that the fluid wasn't terrible anyway. I appreciate any advice you guys may have. Thanks Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,085 #28 Posted August 28, 2016 Yes, you can drill and tap to a larger size if necessary. Just research NPT pipe threads to know exactly what size drill bit to use for each size NPT tap. Once you determine the correct size, you can buy a drill bit, NPT tap and the plug to match. You could drill progressively larger, checking the hole each time to be sure you're not drilling out the threads and pick out the thin pieces if you can. Or, possibly use a Bi-metal jig saw blade to fit in the hole and cut the side. They only cut in the pull direction so the chips will fall to the ground as you cut and you can do it by hand if you don't have the saw. Don't waste your time using JB Weld. IMO Welding a nut to it was the best option. I've wasted a bunch of time with those so called "easyouts" too. 1 out of 50 may have come out and none easy! They have worked once in a while but usually just end up drilling it completely out anyway and taping it. Maybe I just don't know what I'm doing with them since so many others recommend them. . 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harvest2112 9 #29 Posted August 28, 2016 OK, good advice. I have nothing to lose by trying a jigsaw and also trying to further drill it out. I'm going to try a 7/16" bit unless you think that's too close to the threads. Thank you for the reply, I'll look up those NPT numbers if boring is necessary Chris 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,085 #30 Posted August 28, 2016 EXACTLY! nothing to loose now. Bit size may be determined by how centered the hole is now. If the hole is off center, that may actually help as one side of the new hole will be closer to the threads when drilled which may allow it to be removed easier without damaging the threads. Probably not that big of a deal if they do get damaged a little bit. If necessary, they make a pipe dope that's oil resistant and doesn't really cure all the way and stays flexible. That will seal it and allow removal of the plug but you might have to re-apply it each time. Might be a good idea to attach a small magnet to a piece of wire or something to put up through the hole and collect any metal chips when your done. Of coarse that's the backyard mechanic way since splitting the case and cleaning it would be the correct and proper way to do it. Same goes for fixing the hole I guess too. BUT, give the laziest man the toughest job and he'll find the easiest way to do it! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DougC 2,641 #31 Posted August 28, 2016 1 hour ago, wallfish said: give the laziest man the toughest job and he'll find the easiest way to do it! That would be a great signature for a member who does not yet have one! wallfish!!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,410 #32 Posted August 28, 2016 Assuming that is a 1/4" NPT hole and you are drilled center then just open the hole to 7/16" then run a 1/4" NPT tap up into the hole. First run it around 1/2 way in then screw in the new pipe plug. You should get around 3 turns by hand until it stops. If you get less that that then tap the hole a little deeper. Repeat until you get the 3 turns. After that then clean out the hole and the case the best you can. Apply pipe dope to the new drain plug and tighten securely. Fill axle with oil and check for leaks. If no leaks then you are done. Pat yourself on the back. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harvest2112 9 #33 Posted August 29, 2016 I cut 2 slots in the bolt with a jigsaw and I was then able to crimp it a bit and then unthread it. The one slot cut into the threads by a small amount but when I ran some diesel through it to wash it out, the plug held the diesel so I'm thinking it's OK. Thanks to all of you for the various tips and tricks. I definitely learned something from all of this and I'll be happy to have my horse back in the field. -Chris 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,085 #34 Posted August 29, 2016 WOOOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOOO! Since this is now your specialty, I'll send you a couple to do for me! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Detector 72 #35 Posted August 29, 2016 A bit late to comment but I have run into this before over the years on various stuff, I use a small propane torch to heat/cool a few times and lightly drive in a good quality torx "star" bit to grab what material is left from the hex pattern 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Short Circuit 27 #36 Posted September 6, 2016 On August 24, 2016 at 4:54 PM, wallfish said: Weld a nut to it and take it right out with socket. The heat will also break loose the bond it has to the case. Good reason to buy a welder if you don't have one! Then you'll be amazed how many things you'll find that need welding (or even things you make up that need welding) I did the same thing on my transmission. I used a 7/16 or 1/2" nut and welded it to the plug on the inside of the nut so I wouldn't weld it to the trans housing. the plug came right out with a socket wrench! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #37 Posted September 7, 2016 I just went through the same thing tonight. I used a #5 xtractor and it just got the job done. It was 50/50 either way. Coming out or stripping worse. It was stuck good. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites