Stripped Trans Drain Bolt

[Harvest2112 9]

Howdy folks

 

First, let me say that this forum has been indispensable to me since I purchased a 312-8 last summer.  Thank you all for your fantastic community here and your continued support for Wheel Horse owners.

 

I attempted to change my trans oil this past weekend.  I tried a 3/8" Allen wrench but it did not have the torque necessary to free the bolt.  I went to the hardware store and purchased a 3/8" hex bit for my socket wrench and let PB Blaster soak on the bolt for an hour or so.  I tried to crack it loose and ended up stripping the head of the bolt. 

 

What do you guys think I should try to get it out?  I read somewhere that you can hammer a slightly larger star bit into the reamed hole and try to break it loose that way.  I have nothing to lose at this point so I am open to any other suggestions.  I figured that heating the bolt would be a recipe for catching my tractor on fire but maybe it would work if done carefully?  Not sure.

 

Thank you in advance for any advice you can throw my way

 

 

- Chris

[stevasaurus 22,883]

drilling through the plug and using an "easy out" should do the trick with out messing up the threads. 

[Harvest2112 9]

Thanks for the tip.  I've heard the term "easy out" but didn't know what they were for.  I'll pick a set up and give it a go.

 

Thanks again

 

Chris

[oldredrider 2,550]

Get a HIGH QUALITY set. The cheapies will break off and that will compound the problem.

[rmaynard 15,634]

The only thing that bothers me here is that the plug should have been a 1/4" Allen head.

[KC9KAS 4,741]

@Harvest2112  The drain plug should drill fairly easy, but as stated before, get a GOOD set of easy outs!

Edited August 23, 2016 by KC9KAS

[953 nut 55,936]

 The plug was probably cross threaded and is jammed.  You could drill it out with progressively larger drill bits until all that is left is a thin shell and the threads; use a small punch and collapse the threads inward.

[JimD 3,345]

5 hours ago, rmaynard said:

The only thing that bothers me here is that the plug should have been a 1/4" Allen head.

This makes me wonder if he's talking about the fill plug, not the drain plug. Isn't that a 3/8"? He didn't say he got the oil drained.

 

 

Edited August 23, 2016 by JimD

[ACman 7,621]

Try to find a left twisted bit set , as you drill it , heats up and sometimes catches and will come out  .

[Harvest2112 9]

Ah, I was going from memory, it was a 1/4" Allen wrench, sorry about that.  I'm going to give it a shot this evening.  

 

It may be cross threaded - that would make sense as that sucker is really in there.  

 

Thanks for the tips!   I'll let you know how I make out.

 

Chris

[Jake Kuhn 1,556]

If there are still threads sticking out which there normally is,I've gotten lucky sometimes removing them with a pair of vise grips on the thread.Yes,you will damage the threads but it sounds like your plug  needs replaced anyway.

[Harvest2112 9]

There are still a few rows of threads visible, maybe I can get a vice grip on there.  I already own a pair of them so that would be the cheapest option.  Good tip, thanks

 

Do any of you guys happen to know what the part number of the drain bolt is?  I don't have my serial number handy to do a parts lookup to get a replacement but I will get it at home tonight, didn't know if anyone had that number handy though. 

 

 

Thanks again guys. 

[rmaynard 15,634]

Part #285-22

[Harvest2112 9]

Awesome, thank you very much RMaynard!  That will get it in the mail a day earlier. 

 

-CK

[953 nut 55,936]

3 hours ago, Harvest2112 said:

any of you guys happen to know what the part number of the drain bolt is?

It is just a 1/4" pipe thread plug, you can get them at any hardware store.

[Harvest2112 9]

I didn't realize it was a common/multi-use part.  Thank you!  Maybe I can find one that has something different than a hex head to avoid this problem in the future.

[stevasaurus 22,883]

Should be able to find one that has a 1/4" square head sticking out so you can use a small crescent on it.  They also come in brass rather then cast iron. 

[squonk 41,470]

If you don't get it out get one of those oil sucking units and drain it from the fill  hole. Better than nothing.

[cleat 6,412]

If you are going to put a blade or tiller on it make sure you get a plug that sits nearly flush as the original does.

 

A standard pipe plug will hit the bar that latches into the rear hitch (don't ask how I know).

 

If not, a regular pipe plug is the way to go.

[Harvest2112 9]

I put the vice grip to it yesterday afternoon but that sucker wouldn't budge no matter how much force I used.  I ended up ripping up the bolt a bit.  I'm going to get an easy out tomorrow and, failing that, drill it out how 953 Nut said. 

 

Thanks

 

Chris

[DougC 2,641]

Looks like there is enough sticking out to be able to use a pipe wrench on it. The harder you pull the tighter it grips. Even a small pipe wrench with a section of pipe slid over the handle should be plenty of force to move that small plug. I've removed rusted trailer hitch balls that have been on step bumpers for 20 years with a pipe wrench and a 4 foot section of steel pipe slid over its handle as a strong arm.

Use the drill and easy out as a last resort.      

[wallfish 17,085]

Weld a nut to it and take it right out with socket. The heat will also break loose the bond it has to the case.

Good reason to buy a welder if you don't have one! Then you'll be amazed how many things you'll find that need welding (or even things you make up that need welding)

[squonk 41,470]

Don't weld it to the bench! (We did that in college!) 

[lynnmor 7,357]

Is there any "guts" in there that a drill or easy-out might damage? 

 

I looked for a socket type drain plug at local hardware stores with no luck.  Yes, the plug needs to be nearly flush to clear some rear hitching.

[oldredrider 2,550]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Don't weld it to the bench! (We did that in college!) 

What college teaches that?