Plow question

[grine_22 145]

I have a moldboard plow I acquired and I put it behind the 310-8, it will work fine in tilled ground but trying to use it on unworked soil it does not seem to have down pressure to pull itself in the ground.  If i lean back and push on it it digs great but when i leave off it just pulls out of the ground. What are options to solving this problem? 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,032]

If you want to plow 5" deep put the left front and rear wheels up on 5" blocks. Now adjust the plow to sit flat on the floor like it is now. There should be an adjustable link joining the rear vertical bar to the bracket on the plow frame. What it adjusts is called the suck. It pulls the plow into the ground until the angle iron at the rear called the land slide won't let it go any deeper. This process will get your adjustment real close to what you want. If you want to go deeper tip the point down. To raise it a bit raise the tip a bit.

 

Garry

[953 nut 55,059]

This is the adjustment Garry was talking about.

[squonk 41,019]

Looks like the adjuster link for the plow is missing.

[jdleach 525]

Lets see here... I thought that the 310 and 312 only had four-pinion rears, and thus you were not supposed to use "ground engaging" equipment with them.

[Racinbob 11,039]

Not so. The 4 pinions are one tough cookie and plowed many gardens before the 8 pinions even existed.. 

[jdleach 525]

Was just quoting from the original Wheel Horse material that came with my tractor.

 

Have wondered for some time about Wheel Horse stating that the 300 series were not to be used with furrow plows and the like. Didn't make much sense, being that there were plows and discs made specifically for the smaller tractors of the '60s.

[Shynon 7,459]

When you get an adjustment link, set the tail of the landslide 1" off the floor as the tractor sits. Actually as a look at the picture again, if the mounting bar is welded straight on the plow it may not work at all. If you look at a Brinly plow the front hitch is welded on at an angle so the shear is flat in the bottom of the furrow as the tractor is at an angle.

Edited August 21, 2016 by Shynon

[Racinbob 11,039]

59 minutes ago, jdleach said:

Was just quoting from the original Wheel Horse material that came with my tractor.

 

Have wondered for some time about Wheel Horse stating that the 300 series were not to be used with furrow plows and the like. Didn't make much sense, being that there were plows and discs made specifically for the smaller tractors of the '60s.

 

Exactly. I didn't know they said that about the 300's. All the 60's round hoods were 4 pinion and folks have plowed with them for many years. 

[953 nut 55,059]

My guess is they were talking about the Eaton 700 equipped automatics.

1 hour ago, jdleach said:

300 series were not to be used with furrow plows

 

[jdleach 525]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

My guess is they were talking about the Eaton 700 equipped automatics.

 

Nope, all 300 models.

 

To be more specific, the 1985 sales brochure does not explicitly state to NOT use a plow with them, but it does list in their charts that plows were only available for use with the 400 series tractors, along with the heavy-duty front spindles. In the owners manual under Plows, Discs, and Harrows, it lists the 400 series only.

 

Again, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense given the history of usage for the 4-pinion transaxle. Too, there are a LOT of posts here on the forum from folks who use their 310 and 312 tractors to plow, and with no adverse effects.

Edited August 21, 2016 by jdleach
Additional info.

[PeacemakerJack 10,738]

I'm glad to see you have picked up a plow for your GD WH.  Your plow it missing the above mentioned adjusting link and also a coulter.  The coulter is optional on this size plow although I prefer to run one as often as conditions will allow.  An adjusting link is necessary.  Brinly has a free downloadable manual for their plows on their website.  I suggest downloading and reading it through carefully.  Your plow is of a different manufacturer and therefore all details won't be the same but the concepts of how to properly set up a plow for plowing, how to strike out a plot, how to make adjustments while plowing, dealing with various types of ground conditions, and many more little gems are contained therein!  Some of the points the guys listed above will be found in there with much more.  Plowing is very addictive so be careful

As to durability, my dad beat his 875 hard enough to break a gear or two, but that was a one time event out of literally dozens upon dozens of times playing in the dirt.  Good luck and keep us posted on what you come up with.

[grine_22 145]

I have the adjuster link, and the Coulter, just had them off when I took the picture. 

 

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,496]

How to adjust a single moldboard plow and more plow information:

 

Plow_Operation.pdf

brinly plow.pdf

plow_setup.pdf

[PeacemakerJack 10,738]

Thanks T-Mo!

[grine_22 145]

The plow is at an angle where I welded it to my bracket, like I said I don't understand how it'll work fine in my garden but not in the grass. I don't know if adding some weight will help I just don't want to stress my lift cable