RJ-58 Restoration

[Abe01 61]

I would say it loOKs like the clear wasn't fully cured but it's been what a week since you cleared? That finish just looks like it was worked on soft paint......not second guessing or anything it just blows my mind all that beautiful wor for this. If it were me and I didn't get a good answer from the company, I would probably work the fenders overy with 800 wet for a bit and try to get back down to the color and then respray with 2 coats of color finishing the same way you have been and forgo the clear 

[Johndeereelfman 309]

1 hour ago, ACman said:

Try contacting Troy at Tallmans , maybe he'll have a suggestion  . You never know what will happen till you ask  . He does know your painting capabilities .

 

I have an email sent to him ACman, but I won't hear anything back from him until tomorrow. I sent him the same pictures as I have shown above, so we'll see what he says or thinks of the results.

35 minutes ago, Abe01 said:

I would say it loOKs like the clear wasn't fully cured but it's been what a week since you cleared? That finish just looks like it was worked on soft paint......not second guessing or anything it just blows my mind all that beautiful wor for this. If it were me and I didn't get a good answer from the company, I would probably work the fenders overy with 800 wet for a bit and try to get back down to the color and then respray with 2 coats of color finishing the same way you have been and forgo the clear 

 

Abe, you could have just hit the nail on the head. I may not have waited enough time for the paint to cure properly. In fact, I'm sure I didn't. The parts were only painted Saturday morning, and this fender was wet sanded and polished tonight. Huge mistake on my part!!! Can you tell this is the first time at clear coating? This is what happens when you see a finish line and start getting excited to get things done. Doesn't pay to push for time. 

 

Fortunately, this fender was the only part that I did or tried wet sanding, so all of the other parts will now hang for this week before I do anymore. I'll give your idea a try Abe, who knows, maybe I'll be able to save it after all. 

Edited September 19, 2016 by Johndeereelfman

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

I have had incredible luck using a harbor freight D/A polisher and some meguiars professional products on existing paint, I have not yet painted any body parts on my own.

 

I am restoring the shine to a 522xi with the Meguiars 105 Ultra Cut Compound (to remove the sun fade), and will be working my way up to the polishes to the 205 Ultra Finishing Polish. I have heard you cant REALLY get clear coat to shine with just sanding, you really need to get into the super fine polishes to make clear coat shine. (again, no painting experience of my own here, just what I hear from pros I talk to)

 

I used to do this by hand and had OK results with rubbing ad polishing compound and the like, but once I got the DA it was incredible what a difference it made. And you will not likely burn or swirl the paint with a D/A unit. (Assuming its dry and cured!)

 

I wouldn't give up on the clear until its fully cured and you have had a chance to work it over really well into the super fine polishes. But either way this thing is looking great!

Edited September 19, 2016 by bmsgaffer

[stevasaurus 22,739]

Something about a nice shiny, new transmission that gives you goose bumps. 

[Johndeereelfman 309]

Well, it's been five days since I clear coated everything, so tonight I got out the second test piece (Kohler Recoil) to see how things are going to go now that the clear had a little more time to cure.  I wet sanded it lightly with 2000 grit paper, then went over it once with rubbing compound. Didn't really rub it, just more or less smeared it. Then I started on the polishing compound. Went over the recoil three times, using a little more aggressive effort each coat. After wiping it a few times with one of my old cotton undershirts, here are the results that I ended up with. Still not what I wanted, however Ryan is happy with the finish, so I guess I'll continue on.

 

Before Clear Coat: (Actually after the first coat of red was applied)

 

 

After 3 coats of Clear Coat:

 

 

Final Results:

 

**The reflection in the left picture is that of my night/day exterior light, and the reflection in the right picture is that of the basketball net. Both objects were about 6 feet away from the recoil when I snapped the pictures. 

 

 

Personally, I'm still disappointed in the results and know what I'll be changing some techniques on the next restoration. When I do this again, I'm going to use the polishing compound to make the last coat of finish smooth, then go right to wax. No more clear coat or having to wet sand the last coat to bring back a shine. It's just not worth the risk of having to start all over again. I lost the shine that I worked my butt off to achieve, but if Ryan is happy, then that is all that matters!   

 

 

 

 

Edited September 22, 2016 by Johndeereelfman

[953 nut 55,228]

While I was finishing Street Rods as a side line I only shot lacquer;   Primer, color and clear. One reason was the fact that it is harder than canalized enamel and the other is that it is workable within a couple of hours. Many times I wet sanded and polished parts within a couple of hours. Also, I used a low speed buffer with a liberal application of polishing compound being sure to keep the pad moving to prevent burning. The swirl marks seen on the recoil tell me you need to spend more time with polishing compound, hard to get a real good shine without a polisher. Be sure to attach your part to something solid so the polisher won;t send it into orbit! 

             Calendar shot!           

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

   i know I said this before but you will need a tool. I prefer a D/A polisher because its hard to screw up and i wont burn the paint, but you can use a regular polisher like 953 mentioned if you wish. 

 

I too saw the swirl marks and I know that there is a DEEP shine hiding there waiting to come out and surprise you. Go pick up a polisher

[Chris G 3,296]

I wouldn't beet yourself up to bad. Me personally I still am impressed with all the work that you have put in to your horse and in all honesty the outcome is looking really nice. So I would still say great job and it's looking great, can't wait to see the final!

[Johndeereelfman 309]

After long debate between myself and my son, we all have come to the agreement that these tractor parts will be re-stripped and I will be starting all over again. There will not be any clear coat used this time, nor will there be any rubbing or polishing compound applied. I have been trying to get my nice finish back but to no prevail. Highly disappointed with the results, but I want it right, so the hard work will restart and continue on. Since I'm currently swamped at work and due to the temperatures starting to fall, I have made the decision to just put the RJ project on hold until next Spring. Sorry guys, but there won't be any new updates until then.

 

Just for the record, I'm still very pleased with the Tallmans Ag paint that I'm using, and won't be changing brands. I'm just not happy with the results of the clear coat and won't be using it again. Some of you guys might have better luck or results with the clear coat, but I'm electing not to use it again. Lesson well learned. 

 

I hope you guys that have been following this post will still stay with me and continue to follow any updates next year. I really appreciate all of your encouragement and kind words, and I'm very Thankful for all of the help that you have given me along the way.  

[Skeeters65 45]

Aww man that tough to hear. But you might as well get the results you want after all that hard work. I have enjoyed watching your progress and has got me going on my own restoration. Can't wait for some updates. 

Good luck!

[ACman 7,618]

Just a thought , if Tallmans likes your work , they should at least offered to buy back your clear or have your parts stripped for free , after all your hard work . If they want to showcase your rattle can capabilities that's the least they could do .  looking forward to for future updates .

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

As someone who used to paint for a living, I would not strip them down. Just leave them till spring and block them out and put more paint over the clear. You would want to try a small part first to make sure it not going to lift or anything, but I see no reason to strip your parts back down. 

 

 

 

 

Randy

[dells68 7,498]

I agree with Randy, I wouldn't strip it down.  There are varying grits of compound and polish.  I've had great luck on cars using swirl mark remover to get rid of those swirls and light haze you're seeing.  I'd check into getting a variable speed rotary polisher and using a white waffle pad for cutting and a black foam pad and the mildest polish you can use to see what results you get.  Keep the speed down as it will burn the paint easily if you're not careful.  Just looks too nice to strip down!

[953 nut 55,228]

On 9/22/2016 at 9:06 PM, 953 nut said:

I used a low speed buffer with a liberal application of polishing compound being sure to keep the pad moving to prevent burning. The swirl marks seen on the recoil tell me you need to spend more time with polishing compound, hard to get a real good shine without a polisher. Be sure to attach your part to something solid so the polisher won;t send it into orbit! 

 

18 minutes ago, dells68 said:

There are varying grits of compound and polish.  I've had great luck on cars using swirl mark remover to get rid of those swirls and light haze you're seeing.  I'd check into getting a variable speed rotary polisher and using a white waffle pad for cutting and a black foam pad and the mildest polish you can use to see what results you get.  Keep the speed down as it will burn the paint easily if you're not careful.  Just looks too nice to strip down!

                    Patience and elbow grease are a must for a good finish; you have been doing a great job, don't give up now.

[Theroundhousernr 589]

Personally... i dont see anything wrong with the clear or the way you painted it....This all seems to be in your finish work... The recoil in the one photo is loaded with sanding marks... The idea of polishing is to start with a heavy cut polish and work your way to a finish type polish. Basically as you polish you cut into the clear and almost melt the clear into a mirror type finish. But this really cant be done by hand and must be done with da or similar tool. They even make small little one inch polishing wheels for small parts. You start with a heavy cut polish and continue down till sanding marks are all gone. Even different pads make a difference from wool to microfiber to foam. Good luck.. just hate to see you give up on an awesome job for something that can be fixed easily ( from the photos anyway). Remember , a factory clear is very thin.. with the amount of clear you got on there.. you can work that for a while before you burn through... Id say research how to wet sand and polish out clear before you throw in the towel.

 

  ps i wouldnt even think about trying to buff out clear by hand...

Edited October 8, 2016 by Theroundhousernr

[Johndeereelfman 309]

Well, you guys were right! I bought a small polisher, and WOW! What a difference. Very pleased with the results, and will continue on with each of my pieces. Just glad that I don't have to strip and start all over. Have a look for yourselves. 

 

FENDER BEFORE:

 

 

 

FENDER AFTER:

 

 

 

RECOIL BEFORE:

 

 

 

RECOIL AFTER:

 

 

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you Guys!!! You're the BEST!!

 

 

The only other thing that I was able to accomplish lately was starting on the hood. Will take a little bit of time to get it built up and smoothed out, but hopefully it will be just as nice as the rest of the tractor when I'm done.

 

 

 

 

[Chris G 3,296]

It's looking really good. Glad it's all coming together for you

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

If I could 'like' your post a hundred times I would! I felt actual, physical relief reading that post! 

 

With that clear on it you have an AMAZING shine and should even be a bit more durable. 

[Theroundhousernr 589]

Great success story... I am glad you decided to not give up... expecting factory finish from clear in the outdoor elements and not in a controlled environment is almost impossible and will require as much finish work as prep work. Just judging by pictures and time put into the prep work... I felt pretty confident in just needing the right tool and great advice from red square!! The show must go on!

Also maybe I missed it but what brand clear coat did you use?  Also did you do any sanding before putting down your clear over the base coat?? Just curious... great results...

[Detector 72]

Wow what a gloss! I must say this is going to be a gem when completed! 

[Johndeereelfman 309]

6 hours ago, Theroundhousernr said:

Also maybe I missed it but what brand clear coat did you use?  Also did you do any sanding before putting down your clear over the base coat?? Just curious... great results...

 

The clear coat brand is the same manufacturer as the enamel spray paint, Tallmans Ag Specialty paint. My contact said the acrylic lacquer was specially formulated to be applied over the enamel so I took his word on it being compatible. Didn't think it was going to work, but now that I have the correct tool, I'm very pleased with the results. 

 

As for the sanding, no, I didn't wet sand before applying the clear. However, after applying four coats of the clear (no sanding between coats) I wet sanded with 2000 grit then started with the polish. 

 

We need a emoticon that does cart wheels or back flips, as this would show just how happy I am with the results!! But since we don't, I guess these will have to do for now.........

[Theroundhousernr 589]

I think i am sold on this tallmans paint. I went on there website and didnt see clear coat but then later found it after asking the question to you and figured thats what you used then. I am looking for a decent paint that can accept clear coat for spraying out of a gun. My truck was just recently painted with Dupont.... talk about salty but wouldnt have it any other way.. And the stuff like Krylon , and rustoleum just isnt my thing either. So thanks for the write up on this... You many have just sold a few cases of paint for them!

[Skeeters65 45]

This is great news!!!

Congrats and keep going. We all want to see this thing completed!

[Johndeereelfman 309]

After getting the toolbox and fenders all polished up, I decided to do a little assembly. First though, was to cut the mat for the toolbox. I went to my local hardware store that carries all types of flooring, and bought a piece of rubber stair tread protector. After cutting it down to size, I drilled out the holes for the transmission fill plug and the two seat spring mounting bolts. I also decide to trim out the top of the toolbox edge with John Deere's rubber dash channel. I think it gives a nice touch plus will help protect the top edge. I also purchased some stainless steel hardware to mount the fenders. 

 

 

 

 

 

After the toolbox and fenders were ready to go and complete, I figured I might as well stay on assembly mode, so I mounted the toolbox to the transmission, as well as installing the seat spring, seat, and both rear wheels. I still have to clean up the left rear tire yet along with white lettering the tire, but I got excited and want to see some progress. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After I stood back and took these pictures, I only realized that I never put gear oil in the tranny, so I had to figure out a way to get it in without having to disassemble anything. A small funnel and a Dixie cup came in pretty handy.

 

 

 

 

The only other thing I did today was assemble the front axle and spindles to the frame. 

 

 

 

I think I'll wait and do all of my touch-ups after the tractor is complete. I don't like the unpainted look of the spindle tops, nor do I care for the natural look of the grease zerks. 

 

 

 

[RedRanger 1,468]

You can pull the shifter out and fill the trans through that hole.