RJ-58 Restoration

[Johndeereelfman 309]

42 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

Very nice restoration   That K91 sure looked clean inside. Was the bottom of the oil pan that clean??  

See Glenn Pettis Restoraton parts in the fender section for the lift arm black grip and knobs for the throttle and choke levers

 

 

Thanks guys! As for the oil pan, yes, it was just as clean. I sifted the oil as it was being drained through a screen like used for windows and didn't find any fragments or for that matter, any major sludge. 

 

I'm currently working with Glen now on some other parts, so I'll have to check out his inventory again. I must have missed the other items my first time through. 

[Wildhorse 298]

Tractor is coming out really nice, great job!

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Red, antique white, black are the colors most commonly seen on the throttle knobs...

so, if your restoring your original...just choose the one that works best for you. 

Then, on the other hand...        

if you know where to look, there's always this option.  

 

[Johndeereelfman 309]

Wow, Thanks Craig! That appears to be an exact match to what mine looks like. Have you bought that recently and are they still available? One thing though, is the cable the right length or will I have to cut it down some? 

 

Thanks for sharing my Friend!! 

[ACman 7,618]

It's a direct bolt on , and yes there still available . I pull the wire out , cut outer shield with cut off wheel to desired  length . Feed wire back through and cut off the extra . Easy peasy  .

[LarryM 29]

Wow, nice project you have there. That looks like a really nice old tractor to start with, I don't think it has been stored outside much and the inside of your transmission looked awesome.

If you go look at the project I did, you can see how bad a transmission can be! You are doing a great job.

[Lane Ranger 10,968]

Looking great JohnDeereelfman!

 

I am redoing an RJ 58 also.

 

I bought the same  throttle cable Craig posted  pics of from NAPA  !   It will do a great job.

 

Also don't forget the small rubber grommet that goes in that throttle cable hole in the top of the hood.    I bought mine at the hardware store yesterday.   but they are  like the originals.

 

 

 

[953 nut 55,165]

On 8/13/2016 at 2:55 PM, Johndeereelfman said:

What color is the throttle knob supposed to be?

Go to Tractor Supply and buy the Universal throttle control and use the plain one.

On 8/12/2016 at 8:11 PM, Johndeereelfman said:

My son is getting very excited now and can't wait until it's finished.

Your son has excellent judgement when it comes to Garden Tractors.            

[953 nut 55,165]

This is the correct type for the 1958 or 1959, I don't think the plastic knobs were used prior to '60. Both of my RJ barn finds had the plain type like this.

[AMC RULES 37,130]

 You'll see more than a few of 'em used here. 

 

[Lane Ranger 10,968]

Two of my three RJ's have  plastic knobs and my  third one I am redoing  will have the NAPA throttle with the platic knob.   I have  seen several with the metal handle knob  953 Nut posted also!

 

[ACman 7,618]

My 58  has the style that 953 showed , and the 59 had the plastic knob , but that tractor also has a solid seat pan .  maybe because it was a later 59 ?  I've seen the all steel version on   checking out Bolens parts .

[stevasaurus 22,713]

Great job on that RJ Troy.  I'll bet your glad you decided to rebuild that trans...that oil really did look pretty nasty.  The paint looks fantastic!! 

[Johndeereelfman 309]

Thanks Steve. Work has been so busy lately, I just can't find the time to get back to working on it. Plus working 12 hour days in this heat is taking the energy out me! 

[Johndeereelfman 309]

Tonight I started getting the carb all cleaned up. I have most of the brass adjustment screws all polished up and ready to go, and the adjustment screw springs are ready for paint. I'm going to add a custom touch to the carb, although I'm not sure how well it will look until it's done. Can always change it back if it looks real bad I guess. 

 

I also received the engine gasket set kit today in the mail, so a big THANK YOU goes out to Jake Kuhn for all of his help again. Glen Pettit tells me my parts from him should arrive on Monday, so I'm looking forward to getting them as well. A big Thanks to Glen as well for all of his expertise and guidance for keeping me informed on what parts are correct for the RJ.

 

I'm also in contact with Ron Greco in getting the mower deck drive and main engine drive belts, and possibly the mower deck drive belt guard. Hopefully through all of his searching, we'll be able to work together and I'll get those pieces that will bring me closer to getting everything I need yet.

 

After doing some inventory or updating tonight, I'm down to getting the motor stripped and repainted, assembling the transmission back together, remounting the rear tires so that the white lettering will be facing out, ordering the decal set, and doing some body work and painting to the hood. Still holding out for a "Wheel Horse" logo'd front tire and a down draft oil air cleaner yet. Hopefully those items will be found soon. Once all of the parts have their first or second coats on, I'll go back over all of them again, wet sanding each of them with 800 grit paper, and applying another coat to each. I repeat the progress again but wet sanding each additional time with 1500 and then 2000 grit. My goal is to start assembling the tractor back together by the end of September. 

Edited August 20, 2016 by Johndeereelfman

[Skeeters65 45]

Beautiful build!!

 

couple questions. 

 

What aluminum cleaner are you using?

 

How many cans of red, white and primer you think you will use all said and done?

What color white are you using?

Where you buying the paint from?

 

Thanks

 

 

Edited August 20, 2016 by Skeeters65

[Johndeereelfman 309]

Thanks for the compliment Skeeter!

 

As for your questions, hopefully I won't miss any:

- I don't know what the name of the aluminum cleaner is. An old co-worker of mine gave me a Gatoraid bottle full of this stuff and told me to try and see if I like it. Never gave me the name of it, however he used it at his part time job on the weekends, washing out the inside of empty tanker trucks that carried anything from chocolate, orange juice, milk, or syrup. If the contents would be spilled down over the side of tanker after being filled, my old co-worker used this stuff to clean off the residue. I'll see if I still have his number so I can hopefully get a name of it. 

 

- So far, I used half a case (six cans per case) of white which gave me two coats on the seat pan, and two coats on each of the rims. Up to this point, I have used two cans of the second case, giving me two coats on each part that will be red, however I only have one coat on the frame and transmission. I still need to paint the motor and hood yet as they are in the process of either being stripped or body puttied. For the primer, I think I'm on the last can of the second case. When all said and done, I will have used two cases of gray sandable primer (12 cans), three cases of IH Red (18 cans), and one case of White (6 cans). 

 

- The white is a bright white and is supposed to be IH White even thought the cans aren't marked as such. I was told these Wheel Horse tractors originally were painted with an off white, however I elected to go with bright white so that it will match the white in the decals. 

 

- I buy my paint from our local hardware store called Paul B. Zimmerman's, or as us local guys call it, Paul B's.  I was told about the Tallman's brand paint by a fellow tractor collector friend of mine when I was restoring one of my '66 John Deere 112's, as after using it, I won't go back to John Deere brand paint again. After checking out the Tallman's website, I found they only have a limited supply of distributors, however I believe you can buy their paint on-line. Paul B's sell this paint for $4.58 a can, or just over $27.00 a case. The paint covers really well, goes on smooth, and is fade resistant, and so far, I haven't had any problems.                                                                    

[Johndeereelfman 309]

Hey guys, just curious to see what the consensus is here.

 

1. Do you guys polish your carbs, heads or other aluminum pieces, or do you keep them natural, or maybe even paint them?

 

2. Do you re-use and paint the original bolts and nuts, or do you replace them all with new? If new, do you go with stainless steel replacements, or do you go with zinc plated. Again, if new, do you paint them or wax them and keep them looking shinny and new? 

 

3. When it comes to the grease zerks, do you paint them, polish them, or replace with new?

 

4. Wheel lug bolts. Natural or painted?

 

5. Gas tank cap. Natural or painted?

[953 nut 55,165]

That depends on what you want! If you are concerned about originality you will want to find out how it looked when the Ponds built it; if you want to personalize it then polishing and new Stainless are a must have. The important thing is that your son will be proud of it and enjoy driving it.

[Johndeereelfman 309]

Thanks Richard. I guess I'm just trying to make sure I do you guys proud, since Wheel Horse's aren't my specialty. I enjoy this site, and would really like to stay around awhile!  I'm sure I'd get rattled pretty good if me being a John Deere guy would paint something on a Wheel Horse the wrong color. 

[Johndeereelfman 309]

Tonight I had a little time to tinker, so I wet sanded some parts with 800 grit and applied a second coat to the muffler shield, the belt guard, and the seat pan. Still not the shine I'm looking for, so these will be wet sanded again at least twice, and re-coated each time with finish:

 

I also didn't like the finish results on the first front rim, so I wet sanded it with 1500 grit, re-taped the tire and valve stem off, and gave it another coat of white. Not quite there yet, but coming along much better!

Before:

 

After:

 

 

I also painted the head, the carb, and carb elbow, however I don't like the aluminum paint finish. I have some left over John Deere Sabre silver that I'll be using to repaint the aluminum parts, as I really don't like the chromish/polished look of the aluminum. I want the aluminum parts to be more of a satin finish:

 

I also installed the knob and boot to the shift lever tonight. I elected to go with the larger knob so that my son can have more to hold onto while shifting gears. I realize this tractor is supposed to have the smaller knob, but I don't feel it will ruin the appearance of the tractor any. With just the boot and knob assembled on the shift lever, my son felt like there was a little more progress being made and knows that we are closer to getting the tractor assembled:

 

[Skeeters65 45]

Troy,

Have you ever tried the IH Off White paint from Tallmans?

 

If so how does it look? Getting ready to order paint this week and can't decide on what white to use. 

 

Thanks

[cschannuth 3,816]

I just freshened up the wheels on my C-161 and used Dupli-Color Ford Wimbeldon White (M, 9A) and then used the same brand clear coat. I've tried several brands/colors and it the closest match I've found. It's available at many Auto Parts stores. 

[Johndeereelfman 309]

5 hours ago, Skeeters65 said:

Troy,

Have you ever tried the IH Off White paint from Tallmans?

 

If so how does it look? Getting ready to order paint this week and can't decide on what white to use. 

 

Thanks

 

I haven't used their IH Off White, however I have used their Allis Chalmers cream. Tallmans paint is supposed to be an exact match in shade for all of the major tractor brands, and so far, I have used their John Deere green and yellow, their Allis Chalmers orange and cream, and of course their IH red and bright white, and I have no complaints whatsoever. I'm very happy with their paint, and will continue to recommend them to everyone. Here is how my oldest son's fenders turned out for his John Deere 70 lawn tractor that we are slowly restoring. And the other picture is of the Allis Chlamers cream that I used on the two tone wheels for the Allis Chalmers barrel train car. All done with spray/rattle cans. 

 

 

Now granted, I didn't spend as much time on the barrel train wheels like I did on the fenders, but I'm positive you would get the same results with a little more effort. 

 

 

 

[Skeeters65 45]

Anyone know how the Allis Chalmers Cream would compare to the off white that is supposed to be on my Suburban?