Servicing the 312 Hydro Transmission/ linkage adjustment

[Detector 72]

You guys have been very helpful, hopefully I'll be able to help some others as I gain some knowledge on my new WH... I'd like to change my transmission fluid although the previous owner said it was changed last year and is current I'd like to change it for a peace of mind. My manual does not show a Toro filter part number, I looked through it several times but  it does state 5 quarts of 10w 30 or 10w 40 motor oil, would regular Havoline in the 5 qt jug be good? As far as the filter it has a John Deere AM39653 filter on it now which interchanges to a 51410 Wix filter. Do I need to drive the tractor around to heat up the oil and let it set or drain it cold, looks like a allen plug on the bottom of the gear case, the manual is not clear on cold/hot, any priming or any other tips for these hydros. I'd like to go back with a Toro filter but I guess it doesn't matter. I read somewhere not to install a filter with a check valve, I also saw where others installed magnets on the filters. I think I found the correct Toro filter number 79-5270.  Also while I'm on the transmission topic, I think I need to adjust my hydro linkage, I notice if returning to neutral by hand the tractor wants to creep ever so slightly into reverse, I also don't think I'm reaching maximum ground speed because full forward the lever is hitting the dash. If I use the brake pedal to stop it will go into neutral perfectly. I see a shift cam under the seat with a adjustable rod under it. I did a search on how to adjust the linkage but could not find anything. I'm guessing I need to disconnect the adjusting rod, jack it up, start the engine & find neutral on the transmission & with the control lever in neutral adjust out the rod? I see no slop in the adjusting rod but with the control lever full forward I can move the cam about 1/4" more for forward speed. The neutral area is quite wide where the switch is, I assume it needs to be center of the neutral area on the plate [-] . Thanks again "I'm learning"

Edited July 25, 2016 by Detector
add info

[953 nut 55,909]

    A NAPA 1410 filter will do the trick if you don't have a Toro Dealer close by. The Havolin oil should be fine for your hydro.     As for the adjustment, if the foot peddle is doing the job correctly I would leave it alone. If the lever is hitting the dash it may be bent slightly, post a picture or two. 

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

The one advantage to the NAPA/Wix filter is that they have flutes on the end which are easier to grip when removing it. I have had to resort to driving a screwdriver through the Toro filter for lack of grip. You might also consider Mobil 1 synthetic which has better cold weather performance.

 

Search the forum for threads on adjusting your linkage. It has addressed many times.

[pfrederi 17,910]

Drain while warm.  No priming needed

[Detector 72]

Thanks for the tips, I'll pick up a new filter/oil and change it this weekend.  I'll recheck the lever, it's possible it is bent from years of use, it bumps my voltage gauge in full forward, even there I can go under the seat and move the cam to the right a bit more for more forward speed. 

[Detector 72]

Ok I'm lacking on forward speed and also it will creep "reverse" at times even after brake is applied to return it to neutral, I think that is due to where the previous owner greased the area and vibration moves the lever, I'm going to degrease this area. This pic is with the motion control fully forward, I'm lacking a bit of forward speed but not much The Eton manual states on neutral adjustment to loosen the lock bolt and turn large eccentric with a wrench.... I'm assuming the lock bolt is the one I have circled. I noticed the motion control rod lock nut has backed off on the threads at the rear, I'm thinking the rod needs adjusted and not the eccentric

[Detector 72]

 I removed the shift plate and the jam nut was a bit loose there to, not sure why they were loose?  I shortened the rod going by feel and it has picked up a extra mph!!  Still having issues with it creeping but not at every press of the brake to return to neutral. I'm going to get the grease off to see if that helps

Edited July 27, 2016 by Detector

[Detector 72]

On the servicing topic, how much fluid will remain in the transmission, I'd like to get as much as possible out

[953 nut 55,909]

On 7/26/2016 at 11:40 PM, Detector said:

I'm going to get the grease off to see if that helps

A good cleaning will go a long way toward solving the creeping problem. When you drain the fluid you may want to jack up the front a bit to help complete draining.

[Detector 72]

I'll give that a try and let it drain as long as it wants, debating on 10w30 or 10w40... I don't think the previous owner did his own servicing so no telling what's in it now? At least I'll know it's changed & what's in it. Thanks again 

[Detector 72]

I saw this  somewhere before but doing some research, crossing some numbers Toro went from a 108335 to a 79-5270 transmission filter, I crossed both on the Wix website and it appears the 79-5270 crosses to a 51521 that looks to have a bypass valve and the old 108335 is a 51410 same as the Napa 1410. Kinda odd Toro would make that change....

Edited August 3, 2016 by Detector

[Detector 72]

Well got a filter and some oil. I run it some prior to draining. I got 3.5 quarts out of it including as much as I could get out the filter so I put that amount back in going by the jug. What come out smelled almost like gear oil but did not have the thick consistency, not sure what it was? How long does it need to set to get a accurate reading on the dipstick? 

[cleat 6,408]

just a few minutes should do it.

 

Cycle the lift up and down a few times and move the tractor ahead and back to bleed out any air then re-check.

 

 

[Detector 72]

I'll give that a try, had a heck of a time trying to get a accurate reading, I loosened the new filter to get it to take the fluid easier so it wouldn't burp out the funneI. I keep getting different readings on the stick after setting for a hour. It checked consistent prior to the change so it may be air. I just cycled the lift and drove it some, I'm going to let it set over night and check it cold. As mentioned the odor of the old fluid smelled like gear oil, can't say for certain it was, just hope no premature damage was done if it was gear oil. The previous owner said he took it to a shop to get it changed and he wasn't sure what fluid was. I may need to change the fluid again seeing 1.5 qts were left I could not get out. Never know what you get when buying used...

Edited August 5, 2016 by Detector

[Detector 72]

Well I'm almost positive what come out the transmission is gear oil, what is the negative effects on the pump/transmission? I may need to change it several times to get it all out. It seems to operate fine with no issues but I have not really put it to any serious work.

[953 nut 55,909]

10 hours ago, Detector said:

what come out the transmission is gear oil, what is the negative effects on the pump/transmission?

Since it is operating properly I don't think any damage has been done if in doubt it would be prudent to change the oil a second time.

[Detector 72]

Thanks 953 nut, BTW beautiful area where you live, we vacation off Hwy 28 S about 15 miles from Franklin, there's a old swing bridge that crosses the river off a dirt road past an old church we'd visit that wasn't far from the cabin

[953 nut 55,909]

1 hour ago, Detector said:

BTW beautiful area where you live,

Thanks, we love it here. We are at the end of a small valley, quite secluded yet we can be in town in less that ten minutes.