Kenneth 1 #1 Posted July 5, 2016 having an issue with sons project, transaxle shifts fine while not running...however when we start it, it wants to grind into gear? any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,913 #2 Posted July 5, 2016 Do you have the belt guard installed??? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,762 #3 Posted July 5, 2016 May be the wrong belt. Part # is 7473 and it is 82" x 5/8". Don't use aftermarket belts....not geometrically the same and will not perform correctly. With engine running, the belt is 'released' from the engine pulley and does not turn the trans input shaft. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,884 #4 Posted July 5, 2016 (edited) That is what it is...no belt guard. The guard acts like a clutch and funnels the slack in the drive belt toward the engine pulley so the transmission input pulley stops and then you can shift into gears. BTW...Welcome to Red Square. Edited July 5, 2016 by stevasaurus 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenneth 1 #5 Posted July 5, 2016 guard? the one that covers the belt and pulleys? not sure if it is the right belt either...but have the right one coming. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,884 #6 Posted July 5, 2016 (edited) Yes the guard that covers the drive belt and pulleys. That is your clutch. Edited July 5, 2016 by stevasaurus Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenneth 1 #7 Posted July 5, 2016 ok.....and if it was installed and it still does it, more likely the belt? is there a wrong and right way the belt guard should be installed on the foot rest? thanks, for your reply and help!!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,913 #8 Posted July 5, 2016 Belt Guard should be on the outside of the vertical flange of the foot rest. With the guard in place and the correct belt the belt should stop moving when you step on the clutch pedal, allowing you to shift. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenneth 1 #9 Posted July 5, 2016 Great thanks to you all for the info. will try all of this as soon as new belt gets here and will let you know how it goes.... thanks again! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,260 #10 Posted July 5, 2016 There's a tab on the front of the guard. It needs to be close to the belt just under the motor pulley. Something under 1/8". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,433 #11 Posted July 6, 2016 Hi all, I understand the replies in that the belt is trapped and stopped quickly on a full pedal push providing slack at the engine but the trans pulley won't truly stop and the trans not grind only if the machine itself is fully stopped. Non-syncro. The poster isn't trying to shift while moving, I'm hoping. Proper method is fully stopped and brake and clutch depressed - smooth shift. Anyway, that's my experience with the C-125. I originally tried to shift on the fly thinking it was like my old childhood Simplicity 707 until I read this list more carefully. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenneth 1 #12 Posted July 7, 2016 ok her is the update.....put new belt on # 7375 bought from toro dealer put foot rest and belt guard on machine, however making it tremendously better (not like a piece of metal in the grinder) it will go in gear but not with some rumble and jumping into gear, with brake on .?? could something else be wrong?when it goes in gear pulley stops and slack on belt with clutch pushed in, but in nueutral pulley is spinning? any further ideas/help would be greatly appreciated....Son is getting frustrated!!! wants to drive it badly!!!! LOL 1 ooops sorry original post had wrong part number i installed , the correct one is 7473.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,884 #13 Posted July 7, 2016 (edited) I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. Just to verify...the early round hoods have the clutch pedal and brake together on the left side. You would depress the clutch pedal down a certain amount for the tension pulley to put slack in the drive belt, and by pressing it down all the way, you would engage the brake itself. I think your 314-8 has the clutch pedal on the left and the brake pedal on the right. Forget about the brake for a moment. The tractor should be at a complete stop...push in the clutch pedal (does not matter if you are in gear or in neutral)...the slack in the drive belt should funnel towards the engine pulley and the belt should stop rotating. If the tractor is not moving and the drive belt is not rotating then the input pulley on the transmission has stopped turning and you should be able to move the shifter into any gear with out grinding. One thing, you have a new belt...could be a little sticky. Your engine, tension and input pulleys may also be a little sticky with old grime. Use mineral spirits to clean the pulleys and maybe wipe the new belt. Maybe you are trying to shift into gear to quick...before belt has a chance to stop. Maybe idle the engine down before shifting into gear. Do the springs look good and in the right place?? I am trying to get you to try a few things that might help. The brake pedal just pulls the brake band tight against the brake drum...that is all. It has no effect on the input pulley if you are in neutral...only if in gear. The brake will not let the differential turn while in neutral or in gear though. A few pictures of the guard mounted, unmounted and the belt routing might better help us to see if something stands out. Don't get frustrated. It is hard to picture if there is a problem just by reading. Edited July 7, 2016 by stevasaurus 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spike957 0 #14 Posted July 19, 2016 I have a 314. If you look in from rear of the tractor, you can see the idler pulley (that moves when you push the clutch pedal causing the tension/release of the clutch belt). There should be a guide tab that crosses over the top of the pulley that could be bent out of position. (Or missing?) It should be 5/16" to 3/8" at the very most clearance over the belt on the pulley when it is at rest. This is important because when you depress the clutch pedal, the idler pulley swings forward and the belt becomes pinched by the tab, thus immobilizing the belt and the transmission, and allowing easy shifting. There is also an adjustment on the clutch pedal linkage that can be used to shorten the pedal travel for a quicker response of the clutch release. Note-If the clutch pedal is depressed with your full leg force to its full travel limit, the pinched belt will actually act as a break because it will lock the large pulley on the input of the transmission, until you release the pressure from the pedal. Let me know if this helps Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
