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wildbill59

97-40FL01 front end loader

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wildbill59

My new-to-me C-161 with a great working FEL, model # 97-40FL01. I'll admit it - I don't know a lot about hydraulic implements, so any advice would be appreciated. I just picked this up the other day, and it's been so busy at my shop, I haven't had a chance to play with it, much less learn much about it. Can't even locate the reservoir, if it has one, to check the fluid. I'd love to find an owners or service manual for this loader - if anyone can help me out, it would be greatly appreciated! 

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Thisguyisnew

By no means do I say I would know for sure and others here will likely be along shortly to correct me if I'm wrong. But I believe your transmission shares same reservoir.  And at least in my c-160 manual 350 lbs is the maximum load 

Edited by Thisguyisnew
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AMC RULES

This upright...

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is your FEL's hydrolic reservoir tank. 

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rmaynard

Just put the word ARK in the search box, then select "files". You will get links to all the info here on the ARK loaders.

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oliver2-44

Most WH loaders have an external pump. In the 2nd picture there looks to be a engine PTO driven pump on the right front of the tractor.

About 1/2 of your hydraulic fluid is in the reservoir and the other half in the cylinders at any time. So when you change the hydraulic fluid your actually only changing 1/2 of it.

Clean, clean, clean  hydraulic oil is the life of the pump, valves and cylinders.  Run the loader, cycling the cylinders several times then check the oil in the reservoir.  If it looks fairly clean maybe just a little dark change the oil & filter.

If the oil looks very dark or milky, you have 2 choices (this what we did on big tractors at the tractor shop years ago)

1. Disconnect all the holes and cylinders and stroke them by hand to get all the old oil out of everything. then you have to refill the system and bleed it to get the air out  (not recommended unless your going to disassemble and refurbish the loader.   

2. (Recommended) change the oil (in the reservoir) not the filter. run the loader cycling the cylinders a bunch (10 times) change the oil in the reservoir again, (not the dilter) run the loader again the do a final oil change and change the filter.

While this sounds excessive, what your doing is getting as much of the dirty and especially watery oil out of the system by diluting it each time.  When the tractor is setting unused, the the dirt and water will settle out in the cylinder and then the dirt will scratch the internal seals and the water will pit them.  

 

P. if you have a cylinder rod that it pitted it probable is seeping some oil at the front seal, replacing the rod or complete cylinder is the only real fix.  But here a patch you can try If there are just a couple of pits --clean the pits with a Dremel using a grind bit (roughens the metal ) and then clean with a good cleaner (lacquer thinner)  Mask the area around the pit with strong clear packing tape, then fill the pit with JB Weld..  Leave the tape in place and file/sand the JB weld to match the rod (the tape protects the surrounding rod area from sanding scratches)  If the rods have many pits here another trick...the front (rod end) of most cylinders have a round gland nut that is tightened or removed using a spanner rench or it may have slots to drive with a punch.  This tightens the front seals which are getting nicked up by the pitted rods.  get some Oakum string packing (like used on old wind mills, etc) Remove the gland nut and wrap a couple of turn of the packing string around the rod on top of the existing seals. reinstall the gland nut and tighten snug, stroke cylinder, tighen a little more stroke cylinder, repeat until leak stops (but don't pound it super tight)

 

There little tricks have kept my worn out 1960's Oliver 2-44 backhoe/loader (my profile namesake) at the farm going for years,        

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MalMac

The Ark loader manual says to use 10-30 or 10-40 motor oil.

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rmaynard

I just picked up an ARK 508-QM from Denny Clarke at the big show. It's in great shape, but I want to refresh it a bit before installing it on one of my horses. What I haven't found, is a good manual. I have searched the internet only to be referred back here to RedSquare. The only manuals here are really very vague.

 

So the question for me, @wildbill59, and anyone else looking, does anyone have a good set of manuals, (owners, parts, and service) for the ARK 500 series?

 

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MalMac

I am not 100% on this but I think Simplicity used some 500's on some of thier tractors. Maybe try some Simplicity sites. Except being a size down from the 550 I would think some of the same maintenance specs would be the same.

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wildbill59

Fantastic - thanks for the advice, guys. Learned lots today, looked up manuals, got some great tips about changing out the fluid. Like rmaynard said - the manuals are a little vague, would love to find a nice set of operator and service manuals, please keep us in mind if anyone has those in their collection. Thanks again for the great advice!

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roadapples

You`ll love the loader and   :WRS:

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rexman72

welcome to the group

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MalMac

I have got a operating, maintenance with parts list manual. As soon as my Tech person ( my kid ) comes home for a visit I'll try and uplaod the manual. Tech world is starting to leave my setting on the side lines.

Edited by MalMac
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rmaynard
2 minutes ago, MalMac said:

I have got a operating, maintenance with parts list manual. As soon as my Tech person comes home for a visit I'll try and uplaod the manual. Tech world is starting to leave my setting on the side lines.

If your tech person :techie-typing: doesn't come home soon, could you put the manuals in a big envelope and mail them to me? I will scan them, post them, and mail the originals back to you.

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MalMac

rmaynard, ok the manual as best as I can do it is in the Manual section.

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rmaynard
59 minutes ago, MalMac said:

rmaynard, ok the manual as best as I can do it is in the Manual section.

Thanks :handgestures-thumbupright:

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rmaynard

Just what I was looking for. Though mine is slightly different, the basics are the same. Thanks again.

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