s47nxt 0 #1 Posted June 22, 2016 Purchased new in 1987 my 418A has developed transmission? problems. Late fall of 2014 it started to chatter going up a hill. Like some one was using an impact wrench on the rear end. Spring 2015 took it to my dealer and they replaced the "pump" with a "good" used pump. Got it home $500 later & same thing. Used it thru 2015 now 2016 and it's getting worse. Like an AK47 chatter and the engine is dragging down. Steeper the grade the higher the chatter the slower she goes. Maybe unrelated but it has been back firing at shutoff. Last time it happened 5/6 years ago the head blew between the cylinders & I replaced . I can't give my Wheel Horse up for some stamped piece of junk. So please, any help, direction, advice will be appreciated. Stephen Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thisguyisnew 114 #2 Posted June 22, 2016 (edited) Did they change the pump because of no apparent blockages or dirty screens, or did they just change pump? Original problem sounds like it is still there Has there ever been a non hydraulic filter on there? Edited June 22, 2016 by Thisguyisnew Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
s47nxt 0 #3 Posted June 22, 2016 They thought the pump was whining & also said those pumps seldom go bad?? Maybe an expensive process of elimination that obviously did not work. Are you are referring to the can style screw on filter on the rear end? It has been replaced several times w/ oil changes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thisguyisnew 114 #4 Posted June 23, 2016 Not saying it is the case but sometimes people use regular car filters that have a bypass. A specialized hydraulic filter does not. It's just best to make sure as the bypass filter will keep running oil through the system even if fouled with contaminants Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
s47nxt 0 #5 Posted June 23, 2016 Thank You, Checked & it's a Wheel Horse filter. Also pulled the wheel hubs to see if they were stripped, both ok. Then removed all of the transmixer linkage, cleaned, lubricated & reinstalled. Next belts and pulleys. After that, not a clue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thisguyisnew 114 #6 Posted June 23, 2016 (edited) There is a strainer but you will have to pull transmission housing apart(it is not really that bad of a job to do) to get to it. And In doing so if you don't find anything visibly wrong might just be wear on valves, valve plate etc... But if this only makes noise on an incline it might still be a simple fix, also you mentioned an engine symptom make sure your getting the maximum rpms to pump Edited June 23, 2016 by Thisguyisnew Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
s47nxt 0 #7 Posted June 24, 2016 Pulled the right side cover to check the drive belt. Took the fan off and found the with the belt tensioner engaged & engine off. By hand I can still pull the belt around the the motor & pump pulleys. There also seems to be a lot of slack in the belt. Is this correct/normal? The belt I'm using is a Tractor Supply HD Kevlar 5/8" x 82". Some sites say the WH 108501 drive belt is 5/8" x 82" others 5/8" x 81.5". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thisguyisnew 114 #8 Posted June 24, 2016 (edited) No there should not be slack when engaged. Not sure on belt size but don't mess around with replacements and use OEM I learned the hard way. And with slack there is no way to get good rpms for proper suction. Might be your problem Edited June 24, 2016 by Thisguyisnew Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
