TIGman 2,006 #1 Posted June 19, 2016 Well I'm trying to get the Kohler K181 to fire up on the 875 and having no luck. I replaced both battery cables,spark plug, plug wire, points, condenser and also the coil which looked questionable. Points set at .020, spark plug at .025. All connections have been cleaned or replaced. Roll it over and NO spark. Where should I be looking next to correct this problem??? Thank you!! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scotty 252 #2 Posted June 19, 2016 On the post of my coil when i put a new one on i put a washer between the points and condenser wires and i lost spark. I took the washer out and it started to get spark. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,577 #3 Posted June 19, 2016 Have you got 12 volts at the + terminal of the coil and ground on the - post when points are closed? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TIGman 2,006 #4 Posted June 19, 2016 20 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Have you got 12 volts at the + terminal of the coil and ground on the - post when points are closed? Yes I do have 12 volts at the + side of the coil. Will check - in a few minutes, just got I house to cool off..... Hot! out there. 29 minutes ago, scotty said: On the post of my coil when i put a new one on i put a washer between the points and condenser wires and i lost spark. I took the washer out and it started to get spark. Thanks for the info. No washer between points/condenser connection on mine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TIGman 2,006 #5 Posted June 19, 2016 1 hour ago, 953 nut said: Have you got 12 volts at the + terminal of the coil and ground on the - post when points are closed? Just checked, have ground on - side of coil with points open or closed.... Now really baffled.... Recently picked up a 3 position ignition switch to replace the 4 position switch the guy had on there. It is a basic OFF, ON ,START switch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,103 #6 Posted June 19, 2016 disconnect the condenser and try ( I know its new but they can be bad out of the box) 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TIGman 2,006 #7 Posted June 19, 2016 51 minutes ago, pfrederi said: disconnect the condenser and try ( I know its new but they can be bad out of the box) Will give that a try. I know I checked out the"Brand New" AC spark plug the guy gave me at the parts store and that was bad..... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,795 #8 Posted June 19, 2016 (edited) With ground on the wire going to the points open or closed you won't have any spark no matter what. You need the primary circuit to stop flowing to induce the voltage in the secondary windings. Look for a pinched wire to the points broken insulator on the points ect. Do you have and analog volt meter? You can check continuity of that wire to ground. then try and open the points and see if the ground goes away. Edited June 19, 2016 by squonk 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TIGman 2,006 #9 Posted June 19, 2016 1 hour ago, squonk said: With ground on the wire going to the points open or closed you won't have any spark no matter what. You need the primary circuit to stop flowing to induce the voltage in the secondary windings. Look for a pinched wire to the points broken insulator on the points ect. Do you have and analog volt meter? You can check continuity of that wire to ground. then try and open the points and see if the ground goes away. I do have a volt meter and I will do some checking tomorrow, just got all my tools (toys) picked up. lol Even with the switch taken off and condenser unhooked,points open or closed, + and - side of coil show continuity to ground.... Even my oldest son said the "new" points might be suspicious. I Thank you!! for your input guys. Here's the ignition switch I'm using I picked up from Advance Auto. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,168 #10 Posted June 20, 2016 The M on the switch is for magneto ignition. As a rule the switches for battery ignition use the letter I (eye) for the ignition. Garry 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,795 #11 Posted June 20, 2016 Yup, that's the wrong switch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TIGman 2,006 #12 Posted June 20, 2016 Well guess I'll be looking for another switch, an actual replacement for the original WC switch. The guy that had this 875 had a 4 post ?switch installed, must be the original had gone bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,149 #13 Posted June 20, 2016 Battery ignition switch 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 28,106 #14 Posted June 20, 2016 26 minutes ago, TIGman said: Well guess I'll be looking for another switch, an actual replacement for the original WC switch Some one please correct me if I'm wrong but shouldn't an 875 have a Cole Hersey switch with the Dog ear key. I know 1966 & 67 had this switch but I'm not sure about 1965 models. If I am correct check this sight www.partdeal.com .They offer a 4 prong switch but you don't need to use all 4. I believe one prong is for a ground which would only be used with a magneto ignition. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,168 #15 Posted June 20, 2016 Original ignition switch 4988 (5/8"-32 threads) replaced by 7263 (9/16"-24 threads) If you add a starter solenoid you can use a more economical switch like Wallfish posted but only use the B, I and S terminals. There is also a plastic 5-wire connector available that fits this style of switch. A solenoid used with the original style of switch will greatly increase the life of the switch. Garry 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TIGman 2,006 #16 Posted June 20, 2016 I really appreciate all the input and help. You guys are Awesome!! Never owned anything with a Kohler engine on it, always Briggs Statton or Tecumseh so this is all new ground for me. Again, Thank you!! Red Square members. l 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,577 #17 Posted June 20, 2016 If you want to use a solenoid rather than a high amperage start/ignition switch this diagram may help. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TIGman 2,006 #18 Posted June 20, 2016 1 hour ago, 953 nut said: If you want to use a solenoid rather than a high amperage start/ignition switch this diagram may help. Thanks! 953 nut Might just give that a try. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites