project Jr.

[russellmc301 600]

As some know i was asking about a fair price on a 400 suburban and i the doctor gave me my medicine for over the summer. So i picked it up a couple of weeks ago and now is is siting in the garage ready for the pro restoration.  rusty was the first restoration but this one we are going to go show worthy. i have wanted a suburban forever so now is the chance to do it right.

pictures are coming but it we haven't done much yet besides taking the deck off.

[rmaynard 15,730]

Keep us updated on the progress and post lots of pictures. 

[AMC RULES 37,141]

That's fine...all we need to see.   

              

[russellmc301 600]

well i figured i ought to get it so i did 

their she is geting a bath, once we got done we put her in the yard to get some fresh grass and dry some.

Edited June 3, 2016 by russellmc301

[AlwaysLookin80 1,308]

I'll be following this thread. Suburbans are my favorite wheel horse. 

[russellmc301 600]

she is all ready to start geting painted.

how do i roatate it on here to make it be the right way?

what is the best primer to use?

[AMC RULES 37,141]

[953 nut 56,157]

3 hours ago, russellmc301 said:

best primer to use?

After thoroughly cleaning everything you will want to use a good quality primer that will be compatible with your top coat. People make the mistake of thinking primer isn't important and then wonder why the paint job didn't come out well or failed prematurely. I like to use an etching primer and a two part catalyzed enamel top coat. You will need a paint spray gun and compressor for this, since the parts are rather small you can get by with the Harbor Freight type gun.

[russellmc301 600]

i have a hpvl set up that i can spray anything, can you buy the eching paint in cans?

[953 nut 56,157]

26 minutes ago, russellmc301 said:

i have a hpvl set up that i can spray anything, can you buy the eching paint in cans?

You can buy it in the 16 oz aerosol can, but two cans are about the same cost as a quart of the un-thinned primer. The quart will yield about as much as three cans. You will need lacquer thinner for thinning and gun cleanup. It is not a catalyzed product so unused thinned mix can be stored for future painting. If you have a local auto finisher supply they probably can beat the price of Eastwood, I'm in a small mountain town so it works best for me. Take a look at their site, got lots of neat stuff for paint and body work.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-high-build-self-etching-gray-primer.html

[russellmc301 600]

thanks for the help,my dad is one that knows how to use all the stuff and clean everything.how much eching paint would i need to do the whole tractor? how many coats do i put and Is this the best self eching primer? since i see others alot cheaper but this is going to be a top of the line build so i dont want to cut many corners.

Edited June 5, 2016 by russellmc301

[Achto 27,908]

If you have a Dupont dealer near by they make two self etching primers that can be used under most other primers. Dupont Vari prime is one and Nason 491-17 would be the other, both of these are a 50/50 mix with their activators. Nason being the less expensive of the two. One coat of either of these under your primer surfacer or prime filler is all that is needed.

I usually use VanSickle primer and paint but I always use a self etching primer first on bare metal.

[953 nut 56,157]

7 minutes ago, achto said:

50/50 mix with their activators

This is a catalyzed primer, nothing wrong with that, but when you mix it you have to give it a defined amount of "Pot time" before shooting it and if you mix more than you need it is wasted. I prefer using a lacquer based primer, just my . I would think a Quart should do the entire tractor for one coat. If you need to re-coat any pieces you can use regular primer, the self etching is to create the initial bond with the bare metal. If you have sheet metal (hood etc.) that needs a bit of smoothing you can use a catalyzed primer filler and wet sand it to get mirror smooth. 

[russellmc301 600]

alright so what are the things i need to apply to get the mirror finish like show horses

self eching them what? if you gave me a list of things to apply that would be great 

is plan self eching or high build self eching better? does the color matter?

Edited June 6, 2016 by russellmc301

[953 nut 56,157]

Check out "Hanks 854 rebuild", toward the end of the build @JPWH got several opinions on dealing with a less than terrific hood and it came out looking wonderful. To determine what shape your hood is in now I would put some 80 Grit sand paper on a good rubber sanding block and sand the hood in a crosshatch pattern (30 to 45 degrees across from right to left then 30 to 45 degrees across from left to right). this way you are checking the contour and this is good practice for later on when you wet sand. Do this on each separate contoured area (each side, top, nose). Areas where the metal is scratched will need to be worked down and places that the paint hasn't been scratched are low and need to be raised. If you want to do any needed metal straightening I would suggest viewing lots of Youtube videos on the subject. Check out the work Jay did on the 854 and the steps he used.

[953 nut 56,157]

52 minutes ago, russellmc301 said:

plan self eching or high build self eching better? does the color matter?

I tend to use the high build up self etching so I can wet sand the primer. When I apply additional coats I use two different colors. When wet sanding to smooth the primer prior finish coat I can spot any remaining high spots because they sand through faster and if I see the color of the self etching I stop so I don't break through to bare metal.

[russellmc301 600]

alright so what is a good primer to use after the etching? I'm guessing you apply 2 coats of primer after etching. do you sand the etching primer any?

thanks for the help.

the only cracks in the hood is around the gas tank straps and someone welded to hold the one strap and we will tack weld the crack together then fill it with filler and make the crack go away.

Edited June 6, 2016 by russellmc301

[JPWH 6,145]

@russelmc301, As Richard said use 2 different colors of primer before sanding. Be sure to use the same brand of primers as the top coats. When you think you are ready for topcoat apply water and look at the wet surface at an angle to see how smooth it looks. That will be a good reference what your finished coat will look like.

Apply topcoat in light coats and follow instructions for times between coats. This is critical for the finish you are looking for. Eastwood has some good videos for the start to finish process.

[russellmc301 600]

alright thanks so if i use east wood ecthcing primer i should use Eastwood products form there on out.

Edited June 6, 2016 by russellmc301

[Achto 27,908]

11 hours ago, 953 nut said:

12 hours ago, achto said:

50/50 mix with their activators

This is a catalyzed primer, nothing wrong with that, but when you mix it you have to give it a defined amount of "Pot time" before shooting it and if you mix more than you need it is wasted. I prefer using a lacquer based primer, just my . I would think a Quart should do the entire tractor for one coat. If you need to re-coat any pieces you can use regular primer, the self etching is to create the initial bond with the bare metal. If you have sheet metal (hood etc.) that needs a bit of smoothing you can use a catalyzed primer filler and wet sand it to get mirror smooth.

I called for an activator only because it's not really a reducer. The Dupont or Nason self etching has a pot life of about one week after mixed.

[953 nut 56,157]

4 hours ago, achto said:

Dupont or Nason self etching has a pot life of about one week after mixed.

Good to know.   I use the lacquer primer on small projects like a  because lots of times the parts you prep in a day are so small you only need to shoot a half pint, with a pot life of a week that is not bad. Feather Fill is the only catalyzed primer I use and it has to be disposed of and gun cleaned before it kicks.

[Achto 27,908]

I like to follow the self etching with VanSickle primer and paint, on the parts where your not worried about a mirror finish. Like the frame, cast pieces, and smalls. You can top coat their primer with their paint after the primer flashes off (30 min or so). Saves time because you don't have to scuff all those little pieces after the primer dries. All of my sheet metal gets primed with self etching, then a urethane primer.  After that it's 400grit wet sand then paint.. 

[russellmc301 600]

 

thanks for all the help i will keep on researching to keep learning on how to get the paint job perfect.

i'm working on scaping the paint off with a scaper and a wire wheel. going along good i think, look at the boot it is like new.

 

[russellmc301 600]

4 hours ago, achto said:

After that it's 400grit wet sand then paint.. 

what type of paint do you use?

[Achto 27,908]

I will use the Vansickle paint with the hardener. The urethane primer brand does not matter so much because you are letting it dry and then wet sanding. Nice thing with Vansickle is that their primer and paint both use the same reducer. Their International red is a close match to  red. I mix IH off white and bright white together for the rims, but you can get away with just off white if you want.

To recap 1 coat of self etching primer, 2 coats of Vansickle primer, 3 coats of  Vansickle paint with the hardener on the small & rough parts. On the sheet metal 1 coat of self etching primer, 2 - 4 coats (depends on how many imperfections you need to fill) of a urethane primer of your choice, after it cures (usually next day) wet sand with 400grit then finish with 3 coats of Vansickle paint with hardener.

Note this is just my process, every painter will give you a different variation. I used this process on the 1076 in the pics below.

 

Edited June 7, 2016 by achto