Lane Huls 146 #1 Posted June 2, 2016 Needing an appropriate steering wheel for my 877, I decided to commission the 656 parts tractor. How in the heck do you get a roll pin out when you have hit it as many times as you could plus 1 with no movement? Drill? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimD 3,345 #2 Posted June 2, 2016 (edited) You can try a drill but it will be difficult because the pin is hardened. The last one I removed I used a four fluted 1/4 inch end mill in a cordless drill. I started with slow speed trying to get it flat on the end and slightly recessed in the hole then increased the speed some. It just chopped the pin into bits as it worked its way through. Used a new pin when I installed it on another Horse. You will have to work at it but it's easier than beating your brains out on a rusted in pin. And even after the pin is gone there's the sometimes delightful task of removing the wheel from the steering shaft. I hope this is helpful to you. Edited June 2, 2016 by JimD 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Huls 146 #3 Posted June 2, 2016 Thanks, ill grab that exact bit from work and see where that takes me. I was going to try my 1/4 hi moly bit and see where that went. Any tips on pulling it from the shaft? Ive never had luck there either. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,035 #4 Posted June 2, 2016 Soak it good with your favorite juice. A press should do the if you can get it rigged up and have access to the end of the shaft. I'm fighting one now that has been soaking for several weeks. I'm going to have to try drilling it. Hopefully the soaking will let me get the shaft off. I don't have access to the end of the shaft to use a press. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,421 #5 Posted June 2, 2016 (edited) First of all, be sure you are using the correct tools. A pin punch of the right diameter with a (for the lack of a better word) t i t on the end, is needed to keep the punch centered. Then you need to keep the hub of the steering wheel solidly secured against something on the opposite side so there is no movement (however slight) when hitting the punch. Worse case scenario, cut the steering shaft off between the dash and the wheel. Then take the whole thing somewhere that has a press. Press the shaft out and the pin will snap. Then you should be able to drive the remaining bits of pin out easily with a punch. Edited June 2, 2016 by rmaynard 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,035 #6 Posted June 2, 2016 HEAT! (You will want to do this outdoors) If you heat the steering shaft just below the steering wheel to the point of being red and let it cool down. as it cools spray PB Blaster. or your favorite penetrating oil, into the roll pin and on the steering shaft (top and bottom of steering wheel). The heat will break the rust bond and help the penetrating oil travel. Let it cool completely before you drive the pin out or pull the wheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,421 #7 Posted June 2, 2016 Use heat with caution. Hub is steel. Steering wheel is plastic. Steering wheel will melt if too much heat is applied 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,035 #8 Posted June 2, 2016 32 minutes ago, rmaynard said: Steering wheel will melt if too much heat is applied Point well taken, just heat the shaft and let the heat migrate up to the inside of the steering wheel hub. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #9 Posted June 2, 2016 Park the tractor near a really big tree. Cut a 2 x 4 just a little longer that the distance from the tree to the steering wheel (where the roll pin is) and "wedge" it in. Drive the pin from the opposite side. The roll pin will drive into the 2 x 4 end. If you move the tree, try a bigger one! 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,035 #10 Posted June 2, 2016 (edited) 18 minutes ago, KC9KAS said: really big tree. Now that is quite literally shade tree engineering, good idea! Edited June 2, 2016 by 953 nut 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Huls 146 #11 Posted June 3, 2016 You guys are great. Genuine advice AND comic relief wowee! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,440 #12 Posted June 3, 2016 Lane Huls I at times just switch the hole console out if it looks good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Huls 146 #13 Posted June 3, 2016 I think that would most likely be the route to go on this one, but the horse the wheel would be going on has a loose fit go kart wheel on it, so I am leaning towards just buying one outright and saving hassle altogether. Nonetheless the information I got here will certainly help when it comes time to do my lawn ranger wheel removal, and my good 656's restoration! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites