my 400 suburban rebuild

[psalms83:18 174]

wow that tranny looks ruff!

his tranny looked like a one price also, but I saw one of his pics had a two piece with bolts.. Are the bolts just for support of the weld?? Was mine originally a one peice or was it welded as a repair or manufactured that way?? I will plan to put in bolts that don't stick out past the bolts either way...but just curious on the function or capabilities of the issue.

[stevasaurus 22,713]

Psalms...with those welds in there, you are not the first one to be inside this transmission.  It does not come like that from the factory.    I would put bolts back in there and grind them down to the top of the nuts.  Half of those welds are to cast iron. 

[psalms83:18 174]

ok...will do

now that I have the details all worked out, and I'm fairly sure I got what it takes to put this tranny back together I'm going to phos dip and strip...then to keep the gears from flash rusting before I have a chance to put them back in the case with oil..im going to keep what's not getting painted submerged in diesel.

 

as for the case itself i have the forks moving forward and back (rotating on their shaft) but they don't move left and right...correct me if im wrong but are they supposed to ?? And if so I figured I would just get them moving and not remove them...they seem fairly clean and I would hate to get them mixed up or put in wrong.

 

 

order the bearings and seals...weld the bearings back against the side plates assemble and o yeah the broken bolt receivers on the case,...a well placed piece of angle iron I will show I feel is going to hold very well even without welding it cause of the way it will grab under the lip ..though I will weld also..

 

 

[Racinbob 11,048]

Yes, the forks move side to side too. I would take them out. They can't be clean if they won't move. Just remember there's two 1/4" balls, a spring and a pin held captive between them that like to get lost. It's not hard to reassemble them. Just follow the steps in the manual and watch Steves video.

The problem with putting a backer in there for the missing holes is that you need to be careful because some of the holes don't have sufficient clearance. For the ones that do it's still a problem because it needs to be flush with the side plate all the way around the bolt in order for the gasket to seal. Otherwise it's leak city. You could put a gasket on the bolt and it may work but I'd rather see the repair build up flush to the side plate.

[stevasaurus 22,713]

Are you saying that you intend to weld the bearings to the side plate?? 

[nhmikel 14]

Are you supposed to tack weld bearings

[WHX?? 48,813]

Noooo they should not be welded at all... just a good snug friction fit on both the shafts and the receivers in the side plates. Once you get things cleaned up and the new bearings in hand. Check  for that fit. 

[Racinbob 11,048]

 

[psalms83:18 174]

ooooo....these are not the bearings welded but a sleeve or race for the bearings???

[Racinbob 11,048]

Yes, that's correct. Pop those bearings out of there and you'll see. 

There may be a thin washer thingy under one or more of them. Make note of where it was. 

[WHX?? 48,813]

Steve's got a video of out to get the bearings out it you don't have a blind hole bearing puller.

 

LOL Bob that washer "thingy" is called a spacer or shim....you been  hanging  out with Steve too long!

[Racinbob 11,048]

Sorry if I was getting too technical for you Jim.

[psalms83:18 174]

thingy"" and "ish" and "whachyamacolits"" are the only language I understands..

[Racinbob 11,048]

Here's a good shot of what is holding the bearings in place as well as the...................thingy...............I'm talking about.

 

[stevasaurus 22,713]

1.  Do not weld anything in the transmission!!

2.  Bearings need to be flush with the top of the ring they sit in.  Pinching the shafts may occur if they are not right.

3.  Your shift fork shafts should be free to move in all directions...and the shafts should shift with ease (but feeling the detente balls do their thing).

      If they work freely, you may be OK not taking them out.  If you do take the shafts apart, I have a few tricks for taking apart and putting back together. 

Psalms, do you think you could post some pictures of all the parts after you get them cleaned up and before you put it back together??  Thanks  I just would like to see how it all cleaned up with that acid bath. 

 

[psalms83:18 174]

definetly lots o pics coming thanks for all the advice and even of the bearings and the balls and detent shafts I wassnt sure of how they went together.

[stevasaurus 22,713]

Any time.    The outer input shaft and brake shaft bearings are in enough to accept the seals and the seals would be flush. 

[psalms83:18 174]

is this gear supposed to be welded ?? It kinda not the best weld I have ever seen? And there was a bearing at the top of this gear , u can see the piece that held the balls at the top of the shaft

i also got the shift forks moving good without taking them out, it i didnt have the right punch for that pin and with the balls stuck i couldnt get that shaft out anyway till i free'd them, but now that they are moving im not gonna bother...may regret it..

 

and these are some pics after 13hr 6/1 phos dip. Blue gray coating is the rust resistant coating left after the dip, and that wipes right off..

shiny metal pics is from running the parts under a brush

[psalms83:18 174]

that cluster gear in the following pics i cant get separated cause the end are flared/mushroomed from trying to knock them out..so im gonna leave this one also...is that center gears supposed to spin on the shaft of end gears? There's a hole like there was supposed to be a pin to keep it from spinning??

now these last two pics above here notice the screw driver pointing to the pin holding the shaft...it keeps the gear from spinning...see it hits those vertical supports and only spins a quarter turn?? Is that right or should it spin all the way??

[Racinbob 11,048]

That's the reverse idler. It should spin freely on the shaft. You're gonna have to get it freed up.

[stevasaurus 22,713]

Psalms...good work for sure.  For sure the pictures show more then the eye can see...I think you can see where you need to clean things up?    The hole in the cluster gear is to lubricate the 2 bronze bearings seated inside.

    Look, we are going to be at the show the rest of this week and will be back next week.  You do what you want, but it appears to me that you have not really done any search for what is going on.  Some of your questions show that...sorry if I am missing something here.  I will help you when we get back, but it is hard to walk backwards on the ideas you are putting forth.  I reserve the right to be wrong about all of this above. 

[psalms83:18 174]

8 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

Palsm...good work for sure.  For sure the pictures show more then the eye can see...I think you can see where you need to clean things up?    The hole in the cluster gear is to lubricate the 2 bronze bearings seated inside.

    Look, we are going to be at the show the rest of this week and will be back next week.  You do what you want, but it appears to me that you have not really done any search for what is going on.  Some of your questions show that...sorry if I am missing something here.  I will help you when we get back, but it is hard to walk backwards on the ideas you are putting forth.  I reserve the right to be wrong about all of this above. 

ahh that was another question I was considering the bushings.. The manual said something of bushings but didnt show it and wassnt sure mine had any, makes sense they are inside that cluster gear...I appreciate that wisdom

 

enjoy the show everyone...and remember to enjoy cause not everyone gets the luxury of attending such prestigious extracurricular activities. One day I will join u...for now I dream of being there.

2 hours ago, Racinbob said:

That's the reverse idler. It should spin freely on the shaft. You're gonna have to get it freed up.

that reverse idler is freely spinning but like it shows in the manual it has the pin but the pin also stops it from spinning? Is it a wrong length pin?

Edited June 20, 2016 by psalms83:18

[psalms83:18 174]

it seems the diagram show the bearing not against the gear at the top like this but maybe at the case cover...so maybe this one sliped down to this point during its previous operation?

 

 

 

good enough...looking at pics from my disassembly that's seems to be just what it is... Notice this plate with no bearing ...that's that...

 

Edited June 21, 2016 by psalms83:18

[Racinbob 11,048]

No, the pins are fine. The shaft is stationary. The gear spins on the shaft. There's a bronze bearing in that gear. 

[psalms83:18 174]

12 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

No, the pins are fine. The shaft is stationary. The gear spins on the shaft. There's a bronze bearing in that gear. 

duuhh u said that in your first post...sorry I didn't catch that the first time u said it ""spins on the "shaft""... Thanks for your patience. my brain is spinning from all the heat and plumbing fumes today