my 400 suburban rebuild

[nhmikel 14]

I printed out the tranny document last week for you

[psalms83:18 174]

10 hours ago, stevasaurus said:

.  I used 3/4" x 1/4" bar purchased from TSC.

 

 

thanks steveasaurus..

I have found that some of the smaller salvage yards or metal recycling places will let you go through there piles and pick out whatever you want....and you only pay by the pound!!!!!! I have come out with truckloads of angle iron, rods, beams, all kinds of thicknesses for like 10-20$!!!!!

 

my tranny is still frozen.... Even though the acid cleaned it up alittle, I cant remove one side of the covers and I cant spin or pull out any of the gears....

[nhmikel 14]

Let's make a kerosene tub for it and let it soak

[stevasaurus 22,713]

What kind of acid did you use and why would you??...you should not have used any.

[WHX?? 48,813]

I agree with Steve.. I would have tried soaking it in a tub of  the old homemade liquid wrench...kerosene & the tranmision fluid? Would have it helped to try and e-tank the whole thing??

[stevasaurus 22,713]

No E-Tank until you get all the oil and crud out.  Electrolysis only works on the rust...it will not do old oil and dirt.

You should be able to pry or pull out the pinion on the spline shaft 1st.  Then the reduction gear on the top of the cluster gear shaft.  Then the cluster gear and shaft.  Then the spline shaft.  Then the fork gears.  Then you have to separate the casting from the right side plate.  Then navigate the casting up and around the differential...carefully.  Then the differential will come out.  The mushroom gear will come out next.  The input shaft would be last. 

[psalms83:18 174]

the acid was for the sludge and it loosens off the rust... Many fabricators know the importance of acid in proper conditions..

the rear end was all rusted and gunked together I did soak it for a week in wd and gas and then in oil and when I took it apart after that it was still as though none of the rusted gunk had moved....i was hoping just soaking would have done it but nope!

so I will try to take it apart again but nothing was budging last time.

[psalms83:18 174]

yeah no etank yet.

and yeah I will try to check the manual listed above for which is the pinion on the spline shaft...i did try that one but its not pretty I did break one bearing already just trying to make things wiggle.

so if someone has the bearings for this rear end I would like to get them ordered so I have them ready.

[dells68 7,498]

Contact Jake Kuhn on here.  He has all of the parts you need - gaskets, bearings, and bushings - all super quality!!

[psalms83:18 174]

thanks dells I will.

 

and me and the old man are gonna make a soaking tub..but I don't want to just soak something in oil or gas that's just going to make the parts greasy and still need to be blasted or scrubbed. I'm more interested in something that when I pull the part out in a day or two its going to come out shiny new and spotless.....any suggestions?

[psalms83:18 174]

I don't have the $$ for an e-tank but wouldn't mind being educated about them either?

[Racinbob 11,048]

E-tanks are cheap, easy and effective. Here's a link to some good info on them: http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

 

As Steve said, you will need to get the oil and crud out first. I like ZEP Industrial Purple cleaner and degreaser. I've got some parts soaking right now. Not only does it work well on grease it is pretty tough on the paint.

[stevasaurus 22,713]

4 hours ago, psalms83:18 said:

thanks dells I will.

 

and me and the old man are gonna make a soaking tub..but I don't want to just soak something in oil or gas that's just going to make the parts greasy and still need to be blasted or scrubbed. I'm more interested in something that when I pull the part out in a day or two its going to come out shiny new and spotless.....any suggestions?

Good luck with that...if you think you can just add stuff and not do any elbow grease...not in this world and not on this planet.  I'm concerned that the acid you did may have fused the gears together.  Maybe not, but you still have not come clean with what you did.  I, and a few others are trying to help you, and it seems like it is falling on deaf ears.  I am not giving up trying to help you...but I am wearing thin. 

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Hold up now. Remember, there's more than one way to skin a cat. 

If you've never tried it...I highly recommend this stuff.  

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-rust-dissolver.html

 

Edited May 29, 2016 by AMC RULES

[Racinbob 11,048]

I have to agree with Steve. You've got a mess there and there's no one step fix. Soak it in diesel fuel or kerosene. Then you could go to a water soluble cleaner like the ZEP I mentioned. You're still gonna have to put in some elbow grease. I'm curious to see if it's been damaged from the acid. My friend, please listen to us. There's a boatload of experience trying to help you and sometimes we get it right.  

Edited May 29, 2016 by Racinbob

[psalms83:18 174]

50 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

Hold up now. Remember, there's more than one way to skin a cat. 

If you've never tried it...I highly recommend this stuff.  

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-rust-dissolver.html

 

I do like Eastwood products and checked up on this product. It seems like a good one to keep on hand.

 

 

and sorry I cant keep up with everyone's comments. I do take everyone's comments seriously.

1 hour ago, stevasaurus said:

Good luck with that...if you think you can just add stuff and not do any elbow grease...not in this world and not on this planet.  I'm concerned that the acid you did may have fused the gears together.  Maybe not, but you still have not come clean with what you did.  I, and a few others are trying to help you, and it seems like it is falling on deaf ears.  I am not giving up trying to help you...but I am wearing thin. 

I mentioned above what I did to the tranny so far and It did nothing. I soaked it in oil and cleaners with no benefit .

 

I have worked on WHOLE vehicles (36 Chevy) completely dipped in acid and seen it come out B e a u t I f u l.... I work in the pool industry and I can get ANY any nearly ANY stripper or acid or akaline(better than acid) by the truck load for pennies dry acids or wet. Alkalines like sodium hydroxide with some surfactants will strip metal of any paint oil or residues and even some rust leaving no elbow grease required no residue ready to paint surfaces.

acids usually better on rust but not on oils and paints. And can require ph adjusting and a second rinsing. All with no elbow grease.

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Maybe you just...  

gotta school 'em on a new way. 

[psalms83:18 174]

4 hours ago, Racinbob said:

E-tanks are cheap, easy and effective. Here's a link to some good info on them: http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

 

As Steve said, you will need to get the oil and crud out first. I like ZEP Industrial Purple cleaner and degreaser. I've got some parts soaking right now. Not only does it work well on grease it is pretty tough on the paint.

THATS awesome!

I could make a 3000 gallon one with this fiberglass tank I got outside!!! But I like my tank so ill probably not go that big....but I bet I could get my dad to let us use the 50gallon plastic barrels we got.

I remember seeing something of there was a way to use this setup and transfer or coat the parts in the tank with whatever the rods were made of. Like zinc coating your own parts or copper coating...electrolysis it may require different chems or setup but was somethin close.

 

thanks I will probably try this along with a soaking tank.

4 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

Maybe you just...  

gotta school 'em on a new way. 

thanks school is in session...im sure I will learn many lessons!! And we can all learn from my mistakes!

[AMC RULES 37,130]

 

[Racinbob 11,048]

3000 gallons  That would take some 375 cups of washing soda! 

Oops! 1/2 that. 16 tablespoons per cup.....not 8. No wonder I screw up so many recipes. 

[psalms83:18 174]

yeah I like that... I definetly got one of those coming soon!

hey pops you want to use my new e-tank for your truck parts??

On ‎5‎/‎28‎/‎2016 at 8:58 AM, dells68 said:

Contact Jake Kuhn on here.  He has all of the parts you need - gaskets, bearings, and bushings - all super quality!!

yeah good man Jake has what i need

 

 

hows the e-tank gonna react to the brass in the tranny?

 

 

Edited May 30, 2016 by psalms83:18
typos

[stevasaurus 22,713]

No brass...it's bronze, and I have always taken the bronze out first.  Nothing but ferrous metals in the E-tank.  Anything else in there, and you risk making the solution toxic.  If you just use ferrous metals, you can dump the solution around your shrubs and not hurt them. 

BTW...WD-40 is not a penetrating oil and it was a waste of time trying to use it as such.  Diesel fuel is the way to go...it will thin out the 90 wt and gunk in the transmission and you can dump it out.  It might even loosen some of those gears. 

[ericj 1,578]

i had a Chrysler small bock 340 one time that had gotten water in the cylinders, I pulled the heads and fill the cylinders with diesel fuel and let it sit and forgot about it more or less. when I sold the car the guy wanted the original motor for the car, so I gave him the motor and he took it home and said it cleaned up real nice and not sure he even had to bore it. so it apparently was't as bad as I thought when i 1st found it, but it was tight and when I gave him it it was loose again. long story short diesel does do wonders loosing things up. good luck.

 

 

 

 

eric j    

[psalms83:18 174]

so after chemistry lessons from yahoo searching in going to do a three stage dip..

first tank diesel (or some petroleum or surfactant type product)

second tank phosphoric tank for individual peices

third will be a rinse or e-tank.

and flash rust will be an issue so the third tank might need to be next to the spray rig or have a treatment in it for such an issue. I'll keep everyone notified how it turns out and post the pics probably within a couple weeks

[stevasaurus 22,713]

Now you are talking cent, scents, since.  I would sure like to see before, during and after pictures of your Phosphoric process.    Thanks