my 400 suburban rebuild

[psalms83:18 174]

 

well some previous identification led us to this possibly being a early 400 suburban due to the hood and its lack of pluged hole for the 550.

but as I cleaned her up I found this number on the cast....coincidence or does it mean what it says??

 

not sure my brain is confusing me...

one manual sais they used tranny 5010 my tranny doesn't say that...

they made 400 401 502 and 550 but I don't find any tractors that are a 501??

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Not that this is definitive...

but, this is the trans number will help you narrow down when your trans was made.  

Am I seeing a dash nine here?   

[psalms83:18 174]

yes k28-9

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Yep...

so your trans was manufactured in '59 then. 

[psalms83:18 174]

. Awesome thanks...so it most likely is a very early model...

but does that other number 3 501 mean this is a 501?? There issnt any tractor manuals for a 501?

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Where did you get the idea...  

these casting numbers correspond with the model of your ? 

[psalms83:18 174]

that was a thought??

[wallfish 16,994]

That is just a casting number of that particular part by the company that actually cast it. The total assembled transmission is Wheel Horse part #5010.

The other number K28-9 is the date.

K= Oct (no letter I, because it could be confused with number 1)

28 = Oct 28

-9 = 1959

That tractor is a 400

[stevasaurus 22,713]

The 3501 is the WH # for the casting.  If you order a casting for the 5003 or 5010 transmission, it is part # 3501. 

[psalms83:18 174]

thanks guys sorry for the stupidity

[wallfish 16,994]

Certainly not stupidity at all. There's absolutely nothing wrong with being curious and asking questions.

After all, none of us were born with any Wheel Horse knowledge so we all learned it as we went along too!

Besides, if no one ever asked any questions on here, what would we do? Sharing knowledge is what this is all about.

[nhmikel 14]

This was where it sat for a while. 

[wallfish 16,994]

Looks like you picked a "Diamond in the rough"

You should've grabbed those foot rests on that front left tractor or even the whole thing, especially if the hood was there. I see the engine belt cover too. It's a 1961 701.

[psalms83:18 174]

we almost grabbed the front left and front (foreground) right...but he wanted 100$ for the left one and we decided for just the rear end with a shifter rotted completely through we didn't want to pay that. And the right one though had value for its price we left for someone else (catch and release) we didn't want to buy it just for its parts we didn't realm want that year model. I believe it's still there in mass.

[psalms83:18 174]

my progress so far....I got the rear end open and whalla

and thats after soaking it in wd gas and oil...not all at once.

so I sprayed alllll that out and found a peice of the case...the bolts that thread into the case, the thread is on the case, and the threaded part has two that are broke. Wonder if that's why it was put to rest and while resting the bolts couldn't hold the seal tight and whalla again here we are rotten rear end...

 

Anyway

 

I guess I should pull out each peice and clean them up...or unless someone thinks soaking it in acid will clean it all up?

[953 nut 55,155]

That transmission should clean up very well. 

On 5/21/2016 at 7:45 AM, psalms83:18 said:

we almost grabbed the front left and front (foreground) right...but he wanted 100$ for the left one

If it wasn't so geographically undesirable for me I would be all over that 701 for $100. 

[psalms83:18 174]

2 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

That transmission should clean up very well. 

If it wasn't so geographically undesirable for me I would be all over that 701 for $100. 

we were there again..looking at it and others,,,its to far gone and not all there for us...where u at if you pay shipping, and if we go back again we could ship it to you....I'll even disconnect rear end so it would be smaller package...but still looking close to 200 and up shipping I'm sure

[953 nut 55,155]

8 minutes ago, psalms83:18 said:

where u at

I live in North Carolina, that is what qualifies it as geographically undesirable.   Thanks for the offer to ship, but that would be real expensive. 

[psalms83:18 174]

Can anybody find me the manual ....transmission_6-8speedmanual (somethinerother) for this tractor transmission.... Im losing my temper trying to find it again, and someone already posted a link somewhere for it. Stupid internet connection cant even type what i click its so slow on my ipad HULK SMASh!!

[psalms83:18 174]

sorry I get crazy dealing with the internet on the iPad, it took 4 tries just to write that above..

I have the manual on this phone but cant in any way transfer it so I can print it. I hate technology. That's a topic for another forum though...

[wallfish 16,994]

Use the search button upper right and search in the files section for the manual

Email the file to yourself and then print from a computer

[WHX?? 48,813]

That transmission is savable just  ask @stevasaurus he's got a nice thread going in transmissions..yours looks nice compared to one's he's opened up.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,039]

8 hours ago, psalms83:18 said:

Can anybody find me the manual ....transmission_6-8speedmanual (somethinerother) for this tractor transmission.... Im losing my temper trying to find it again, and someone already posted a link somewhere for it. Stupid internet connection cant even type what i click its so slow on my ipad HULK SMASh!!

Garry

[stevasaurus 22,713]

Looking at the pictures of the inside of your transmission, I don't see anything wrong.  It should clean up just fine.  Soak all gears and bearings in diesel, then use a wire brush and scraper to clean.  I don't see any rust, but a wire wheel would take care of that.    I see you have the newer style bolt on bull gear and separate differential housing.    Those bolt holes can be fixed.  Do you have the pieces that broke off??  They can be welded back on and strengthened...or fabricated if need be.  If I had to do this again, I would do it a little different, but this did work.  The welded plate needs to be flush with the gasket edge of the case.  Welding the bottom plate and then one on top, drill and tap.  I used 3/4" x 1/4" bar purchased from TSC.

 

 

 

 

[Racinbob 11,048]

That looks great Steve. I do see the issue why you'd do it different the next time. Maybe building it up with some JB shaping, re-tapping and a good thread sealant would do the trick. You wouldn't have to worry about stressing the JB, just giving the gasket the opportunity to seal. Your fix is going to take all the stress you can throw at it.