Motion Control lever

[plumb-r 34]

I just used my new to me C 145 A for mowing for the first time and it seems that the Motion control lever wants to move back toward the neutral position, of course the bumps in the yard don't help. Is this normal or is there a adjustment to stiffen it up so it doesn't drift back toward neutral.

[doc724 925]

These is an adjustment on the cam (under the seat).   It is a friction washer.  Do no tighten it too tight as you will not be able to move the lever.  The PO may have loosened it because it was too tight.  It gets too tight because the mechanism that moves when you move the motion lever (I call it a teeter totter), under the transmission tunnel (the part between your legs), gets dirt on the axle where the thing pivots.  If you really want to fix it right, take the teeter totter out, clean the axle and the inside of the teeter totter where the axle goes, so it is spotless and reassemble.  BTW, the foot pedal motion control that Matt sells (RS vendor) tells you exactly how to get the teeter totter out.  The advise to clean it comes from Matt.

[doc724 925]

Oh, forgot to add, my earlier post pertains to the Eaton 1100 (which I have in my 1981 C125).  If you have a Sunstrand it may be different

[daveoman1966 3,762]

Here is the Sundstrand version.   Do NOT lube this when assembled.

 

[ztnoo 2,298]

Dave,

You always have outstanding pictures with detailed text notations........great stuff!

[Chuck14025 9]

What happens if the parts are lubricated?

Is there a way to clean the parts?

[EricF 589]

Lubricant, particularly in the cone assembly will probably attract and hold dirt, which will make the mechanism prone to grabbing/rough operation. Some blue Loctite on the friction adjusting nut might be appropriate to keep it in position, but that's probably all.

[daveoman1966 3,762]

Don't lube these parts at all.  They are designed to work on 'friction' and to apply a lube defeats the entire purpose as any lube is a friction reducer.  Just keep the parts clean as possible....that's why there is a cover over them.    

 As EricF noted, the lube is also a dirt magnet, leading to premature failure and/or erratic operation.

 

[Chuck14025 9]

It has started to grab and misbehave. Any suggestion for how to clean the friction parts?

[oldredrider 2,549]

Brake cleaner works very well. Be aware it can also remove paint.

[EricF 589]

If, after you've cleaned the parts up, you're concerned about surface corrosion or oxidation, you can rub a very small amount of 30 weight oil into the metal surfaces of the cone assembly and shaft, and then thoroughly rub any excess away. The object is just to work some protective oil into the metal surface, but not leave any significant film behind to attract dust. A little TLC should have your hydro control working like new!

[daveoman1966 3,762]

IMHO...  Just clean with your choice of solvent...brake cleaner is fine.  DO NOT USE any sort of lubricant...especially on the cone assembly.  Lubricant defeats the purpose of the FRICTION characteristics of the motion control function.  Leave it dry.  Any sort of lube is a dirt magnet, which you don't need.

 

Edited June 16, 2017 by daveoman1966

[Chuck14025 9]

Thanks for the advice on the brake cleaner and the 30 weight oil. I'll use both sparingly.

 

Think I found another or the real problem. The spring that pulls on the triangular "Cam Neutral Plate" is completely gone. Its purpose appears to pull the foot brake lever back to the off position. Could that be causing the rough operation of the system?

[EricF 589]

Without the return spring, the pedal and it's portion of the linkage will be resting its weight against the combined brake and drive control linkages. For either, the system is designed to have the spring pull the pedal and it's linkages away from the rest of the mechanical action so there's no opposing input. Best to put the correct spring tension on it. It'll at least remove one of the variable factors from troubleshooting it. (Operate the motion control while holding the pedal all the way up with your toe, or maybe a bungee cord. Does the motion control behave better?)

[daveoman1966 3,762]

MAYBE....  look at the LOCK DOWN TAB of the motion control apparatus.  If it is broken where it gets bolted to the outside of the hoodstand, that would cause erratic behavior.  Here is a C-160 pic and the tab location is noted.  Your tractor should be similart to this. 

[Chuck14025 9]

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

My C120 is an Automatic and does not appear to have a 'lock down' tab.

 

Holding the brake pedal back does not improve the ERRATIC OPERATION of the system. It is 'jumping' into and out of forward and reverse in other words, very rough automatic shifting. Could it be:

1. Low on hydraulic oil?

2. Something to do with the 'Neutral Adjustment' ?

[pfrederi 17,887]

1 hour ago, Chuck14025 said:

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

My C120 is an Automatic and does not appear to have a 'lock down' tab.

 

Holding the brake pedal back does not improve the ERRATIC OPERATION of the system. It is 'jumping' into and out of forward and reverse in other words, very rough automatic shifting. Could it be:

1. Low on hydraulic oil?

2. Something to do with the 'Neutral Adjustment' ?

If you do not have a lock tab at the end of the shaft going across (circled in red) you have a problem. The tab is on the outside of the hoodstand circled in yellow in the picture the weld that can break is to the right of the bolt. I assume the spring you are missing is the number i circled 6-05.  either fault is going to cause issues.  A neutral adjustment is also a good idea.

Edited June 20, 2017 by pfrederi

[Chuck14025 9]

Anyone know the size and pull of the spring that pulls the brake lever back? Any tthoughts on where to get a replacement?

[Chuck14025 9]

Any thoughts on adjusting the friction collar when it is put back in would be helpful.

[Sarge 3,463]

Friction collar adjustment is found in the manual for your tractor - follow those instructions closely and it will work like it should.

The return spring, I believe is still available from Toro.

 

Sarge

[daveoman1966 3,762]

Here is the adjustment method...

[birt 0]

I have a C120 with the lock tab busted off the shaft.

I cleaned it up and see now that if the shaft were attached on the left hand side I'd be safe again.

It appears to me that the shaft in the breakout diagram there as 6-40 should include the lock tab.

Do you know if I'm correct that this is Toro 741211 TIRE WHEEL AY  [ ex. https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/toro/741211 ]

I can source that part.  Further, any tips on removing that shaft if it's the correct one?  It's somehow attached on the right hand side and I didn't pull that panel to look how bad.

[pfrederi 17,887]

The old part Number was 7604.  That is a ridiculous price for a new one.  If you have teh old tab you could weld it on.  Would not be a big project to make a tab to weld on.  or go to A-Z tractor a vendor here for a used one....http://a-ztractor.com/

[birt 0]

Thanks for the tip on A-Z they are great and I got a new shaft.

How do you get the shaft out, including the woodruff key in it?  I'm considering to just cut it in the middle since I have a 2nd one now....

Does that friction collar have a slot that fits on to the woodruff key?  I tried to pull it out the direction of the tab side but it was pretty set.   Did you compress the spring to get at the key and remove it?