Jump to content
Short Circuit

1973 14 AUTO PARKING BRAKE LINKAGE PHOTO?

Recommended Posts

Short Circuit

Does anyone have PHOTOS of the parking brake external linkage on a 1973 or earlier WH Auto trans tractor, with the internal brake pawl mechanism.

I am trying to determine if my linkage is installed wrong.

The brake pawl was chewed up, and reinstalling the linkage after repairing it does not release the brake pawl when put into "drive" position.

There's nothing in the manuals about adjusting it.

Thanks.

Edited by Short Circuit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

Is this what you need??? it is from an Electro 12  She is open right now so if you need additional views just ask.

IMG_0126.JPG

Edited by pfrederi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Short Circuit

Thank you pfrederi! Do you also have a photo of the handle that engages the brake? Perhaps on the other side?

On my tractor, the brake handle is an extension of the silver arm on the left of the spring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

It is sort of out the top of the picture but the silver rod that seems to stick straight out of the top of the idler pulley is the brake/hydro engagement handle.

 

The red lever that starts just forward of the filter and has a spring on the front end is attached to and move the parking pawl in the transmission.

 

I will take some more pics later today.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

Picture in first post is Brake engaged hydro unit disengaged.

 

This picture is opposite Brake off hydro on.

IMG_0127.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Short Circuit

THANK YOU pfrederi!

 

    I have been studying this mechanism from your photos, and my arrangement which are very similar. It looks like Wheel Horse did a poor design job.

 

For example:

     When you put the parking brake on (pull up on the handle) two things must happen: the drive belt is disengaged, and the brake pawl arm should be allowed to raise with the spring pressure, which makes the internal pawl drop into the internal gear to lock the transmission.

      When you release the parking brake (push down on the handle) to run the tractor, the drive belt is engaged, and the brake pawl arm should be pushed down to raise the internal brake pawl off the internal gear. In the pictures and on my tractor, if the handle is pulled up, the pawl arm goes down, just the opposite of what should happen.

    It doesn't look like the mechanical arrangement works like it should in looking at the pictures and my tractor. It doesn't look like the brake pawl arm is ever high enough to make the internal pawl raise above the gear to clear it when in run mode. Every brake pawl that I have seen that has been damaged, has the same amount of metal shaved off (about half of the face of the pawl). This seems to me likely that all the designs are not fully releasing the brake pawl in "park" position.

    Anyone want to chime in on this with your thoughts?

 

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

First keep in mind there is no belt on here.  If you look at the first picture (brake on) you can see the tip of the brake pawl arm is above the main frame rail.  In the second (somewhat different perspective I know) but the tip of the brake pawl arm is just below the main frame rail.  If the belt was on it would be pushed down a bit further.  I will put a belt on later today and snap another picture. 

 

The brake pawl wear is from, I believe, pulling up on the handle while gears were still moving....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • Porkskin
      By Porkskin
      Working on:  1986 Wheel Horse 312-A, Model 21-12KE02, 42" Deck Model 05-42MR04
       
      Hello All, 
       
      Well, the parking brake on this one stopped working, and after removing the shift plate it was clear that the pawl was no longer reaching any of the teeth on the bell crank. So I figured I needed to adjust the travel on the rod that accentuates the squeeze on the brake lining. It's not perfectly clear to me where the adjust point is, but I think it is the bolt-nut-spring assembly as shown on the pictures attached. Now, if that is the bolt I need to put some clockwise turns on to get this done, the question becomes how can I get a pair of 9/16" wrenches or sockets in there to make the turns. I pretzeled myself in several ways to get tools on both ends many ways with no luck. All comments very much appreciated.
       
      I'm using these diagrams:
      www.partstree.com/models/21-12ke01-312-a-toro-garden-tractor-1986/index.html
       
      The first picture is taken from the right side inward toward the assembly. The second is taken with me on my back looking up.


    • Shea Worden
      By Shea Worden
      Hey guys, my wheelhorse c81 got a new transmission last year and now it’s grinding when I drive. First thing the brake pulley is on a higher shaft and doesn’t work with the c81 brake rod and hardware. Second the bearing behind the intake pulleyhas fallen out, which I assume is the grinding sound. Is there a way I can fix it without taking the whole transmission apart? I don’t have enough knowledge to do that kind of repair. Thanks so much -Shea 
    • Horse Digger
      By Horse Digger
      Ok, so I've found out just where the oil is leaving the transmission on my C120 8 speed from around 1974.
      Removed the brake "drum" and discovered a thin ring around the axle, is this part of the seal and can this be replaced without tearing the whole transmission?
      I found several posts & youtube videos about replacing axle seals, but none about the brake axle seal...
      Since this is the lowest axle, the oil-level is to low to determine if axle seals are bad too...
       
       
      I'm uncertain of what transmission I've got so trying to find the manual for it has been hard, someone who can help?
       
       

      Yanking the axel I can just about feel a play, is this OK, or should I replace the bearing too?
×
×
  • Create New...