Another 520H Electrical Post...

[palmerdad 0]

I'll first start out by saying that I might be going outside my skill set to even think of tackling this but I've had some recent success with other issues so here goes...  The electrical system on my 520H.  

 

Issue #1   This winter I attempted to hook up some LED's to my cab.  The LEDs along with my headlights started to blink on and off with every bump and then finally went out.  The taillights come on fine, but the headlights are still out.

 

Issue #2  The seat safety switch.  Sometimes doesn't register that I'm on it and won't start.  I've been sticking a long nose screw driver down to push in the switch under the fuse box and it will start and run fine but as soon as I climb off (while in neutral and PTO disengaged) it shuts the tractor off.

 

Issue #3  This is the big one that I really need to figure out... I can't get it to start without jumping the battery.  Once jumped and started it will run fine until I shut it off.  Then it just gives me some clicks and nothing.  The auto parts guy tested the battery and said it was fine, (it's only a year old) I cleaned the battery terminals, it has new plugs, the fuses appear to be fine although I have been reading about the need to replace the box with individual weather-tight fuses.  (The 9 pin connector is also starting to crumble and is now on my to-do list)  What or where should I be looking?   

[19richie66 17,508]

First thing,  to Red Square. I would check all the ground wires and clean the metal they make contact with. Bad grounds will drive you crazy. Where all your wires plug together at the connecters, make sure there is no corrosion on the terminals between the connections. Also you can clean them and put some dielectric grease on them to keep the moisture out. The battery could have a bad cell and still show 12 volts but not have enough power to start it. That happened with an old truck I had. Tested fine but couldn't start a fight. Make sure your battery post bolts are making good contact too. Im sure someone will chime in with some other things as well. I don't even know why I am here at 3:30 am........

[KC9KAS 4,741]

 and

[cleat 6,071]

The 9 pin could be a lot of your issues. The headlights go through it as well as the solenoid.

 

Clean or replace that and a lot of your issues may well go away.

 

None of mine have a seat switch but I cannot tell others to do that.

[palmerdad 0]

I've gone through and checked as many of the connectors and grounds as I can find.  Shined them up with some steel wool.  Connections all seem solid.  I will be looking into the 9 pin next.  I think it's going to just fall apart when I get at it.

[Ed Kennell 38,231]

Have you pulled all the fuses including the one at the front bottom right of the engine.  

  Pull and reconnect every  connection at least 3X. This cleans the female half that you can't get to clean .

If the Molex 12 pin is bad, replace it.

 

[WHX?? 48,833]

I'm with Cleat on the seat switch... 1st thing that got jumpered out when I got mine but you didn't hear that from me.

 

There was a thread from a member on your issues ( the 9 pin) and how to fix them ....will go see if I can find it for you.  Other wise do a search here on 9 pin and see what shakes loose.

Here we go ...see if this helps you

 

There probaly a few more here like this...

 

 

BTW

Edited April 26, 2016 by WHX61/3
spell

[mikekot3 92]

Is the seat operator presence switch Normally open or normally closed?

[cleat 6,071]

Well, kind of both.

 

Normally closed just feeds the indicator light but normally open is from the PTO switch to the coil.

 

Wheel horse 520H wire diagram.pdf

 

Edited April 27, 2016 by cleat

[WHX?? 48,833]

What year is that from Cleat?  I coulda swore that mine was a only two wire switch & don't remember how I jumpered it out....will have to look. I prefer to start my tractors to warm up without being in the seat.

In studying that diagram more I noticed a test switch, whats it's purpose and where is it located?

[Ed Kennell 38,231]

The test switch on my '89 is on the panel with the warning lights, I assumed it's function was to test the bulbs, but they don't light when I push the test switch so ????????????

[cleat 6,071]

Here is the later model wire diagram.

 

I have switched mine all to the older style to get rid of all the safety relays but keep most of the safety switches.

 

Later model 520 wire diagram.pdf

 

 

2 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

The test switch on my '89 is on the panel with the warning lights, I assumed it's function was to test the bulbs, but they don't light when I push the test switch so ????????????

They should. The switch may be bad.

 

Later model ones simply turn all the lights on for a few seconds when you turn on the key much like your car.

[WHX?? 48,833]

I don't think mine even has that switch guys.... I must have the later style, I see that the later year diagram shows just two wires to the seat switch and no test switch.  What year goes from early to late style?

 

23 minutes ago, cleat said:

 

I have switched mine all to the older style to get rid of all the safety relays but keep most of the safety switches.

 What doe that involve to do that Cleat? My other late models have all those relays including reverse while mowing lockouts and they can be problems. I might just do that when I start havin 9 pin problems. I have not owned a 520 for very long so not versed in alot of things in it but plan to educate myself this spring when I take her apart to get rid of all the crap under the fenders and install Matt's pedal. I have got some  issues with the motion lever/brake pedal return to neutral and hopefully they will go away with install of the pedal kit.

[mikekot3 92]

If I were to order a KM UNIPRO 123 seat from www.turfseats.com It asks for which operator present operator you want. I believe I need a Normally closed one according to the Toro dymistification guide for a 1993 WH416-8 with a manual transmission.

Correct me if I am incorrect.

[cleat 6,071]

I purchased an early model wire harness (others were early style already) and installed it.

 

Basically plug and play.

 

There is one for sale here. I was interested in it myself but was able to fix mine up.

I think only 1988 and 1989 maroon coloured 520's without the Toro name on them will have the old style wire harness without the relays.

4 minutes ago, mikekot3 said:

If I were to order a KM UNIPRO 123 seat from www.turfseats.com It asks for which operator present operator you want. I believe I need a Normally closed one according to the Toro dymistification guide for a 1993 WH416-8 with a manual transmission.

Correct me if I am incorrect.

Well, according to the wire diagram you want normally open.

It will be closed when you sit on it.

 

What you could do is simply unplug the seat switch and see what it does then jumper the wires together and see what it does then you will have an idea.