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ACman

RJ/ Suburban side plate ?

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ACman

Ok , just an idea that came to me when I woke up this morning . With today's technology ( water jets , scanners , 3/D printers , ect ) would it be  feasible to make side plates with a larger axle tube that would except a Standard 1" bearings and seals . You could run a bearing on both ends of the tubes ( diff end , hub end ) for more support and while your at it if some of those other bearings and seals are obsolete on the plates fix those issues too . Maybe even run some gussets on the tubes to make them even stronger .  Bring on those duals and big fat tires you won't bend me now . Heck it would be a great project for a  local trade school . We could truly make these transmissions indestructible . Now if we could have someone cast us some new centers we'd be set . :handgestures-thumbupleft: like I said , just an idea . 

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953 nut

A good machine shop could mill a larger opening in a pair of side plates and weld in new mechanical tubing of the correct size to accept bearings, but the cost may be prohibitive compared to bushings. I see no reason a couple of gussets couldn't be added to existing side plates. 3 piece trans.JPG 

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Racinbob

I like your way of thinking but there would be another problem. The axle tube extends into the transmission and the differential housing slips over it with the 1.375" ID bronze bushing. I'm sure there's a way around that issue but I'm not sure the benefits would be worth it. Few of these old girls get a lot of work anymore. :)

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ACman

I just have a lot of time on my hands , and my mind wanders . :think: Sometimes to much , I just miss the days of going to work and problem solving . Coming from my background it's easy for me to over think things . I'd love to see one of these old girls go to a pull with a  souped up engine heck maybe even a turbo and see what these things to do. 

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953 nut
37 minutes ago, ACman said:

I'd love to see one of these old girls go to a pull with a  souped up engine heck maybe even a turbo and see what these things to do.

Any amateur drag racer will tell you, add power until you find the weakest link; you reinforce the weak link and increase power even more only to discover the next weakest link; strengthen it then you increase power more and more and on and on until you run out of money!

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DougC

Yep. You can have all the power you want if you can afford it. Can't have enough sponsors though........  :lol:

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stevasaurus

AC, don't stop coming up with ideas...and this one is a good one and is possible.  :handgestures-thumbupright:  What do you think about welding a plate across the back of the frame and using a 2 piece transmission like a #5007 or a #5025??  This would eliminate all the bronze bearings in the axles and differential and parts are easier to find.  :)  It would also solve the TORO axle seal issue.

    It would not be hard to build or fabricate a plate...it is just 1/4" steel with a few tubes and pieces of tube welded in the right places for the bearings.  Like Bob said, the inside where the differential carriage rides presents another few nights of sleep.  :)  The outer end has quite a few possibilities...ie...sleeving the existing axle to build out the diameter to accept a needle bearing...and other options.

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ACman

I see what your saying, find a larger tube that slips over the axle large enough to bore out the end for needle bearing and seal . Cut the inner axel to proper length for the bearing and seal .Slide tube over old axle .Weld new tube to plate = big beefe axle tube with upgraded outer end .

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stevasaurus

AC...you nailed it!!  :handgestures-thumbupright:  That is the way I was thinking after I read you 1st post.  This would leave the inside carriage differential stuff alone.  I took some measurements...not with a micrometer.  :)  Just the ruff stuff.

1. axle diameter...1"

2. the needle bearing to try to fit (or replace the bronze axle bearing)  would be the WH# 1528 or KOYO B-1616...this measures 1" ID  x  ! 1/4" OD   x  1" length or depth.

3. the axle tube is 1 1/8" OD...to accept the bronze bearing.

Here is what I see as the issue...the bronze bearing is only 1/16" thick...the needle bearing is 1/8" thick.  This means that you have an axle tube that is 1 1/8" ID (twice the thickness of the bronze bearing)...and you need 1 1/4" ID.

    You could drill that out for the 1" depth bearing plus the width of the seal and sleeve the axle housing from the plate to the hub.  You need to reinforce the axle because drilling out for the bearing would only leave not much metal to support the axle.  I hope this makes sense.  :)  AC...what do you think??

 

BTW...that B-1616 bearing is what is used in the 2 piece transmissions.:think:

 

 

 

 

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ACman

Make tube with a 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" od and that would leave you with plenty of meat on the end to bore out . Your cut off axle acts as your shoulder. With that big tube slid all the way down to the plate and welded, that would make one stout axle tube .

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Racinbob

I don't want to be a party pooper here but for my nickel I'm thinking a frame mod and a 5007 or later transmission would be a lot easier. What the heck, go with an eight speed if you want. Doesn't solve the 1533 bearing issue though. I do like the creative thinking and it's getting  a few of my rusty gears spinning. :)

Bad pun.....:unsure:

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