522xi front end loader build.

[Snowmobileaddict 403]

What color are you going to paint it?  WH Red?  Black?  Other?

[WNYPCRepair 1,921]

13 minutes ago, Snowmobileaddict said:

What color are you going to paint it?  WH Red?  Black?  Other?

 

 

I'm thinking black, but it will probably get nothing, or maybe primer, until late summer. I have too much work for it that needs to get done with it. I'm pretty sure it has enough hydraulic fluid on it to prevent rust. 

[doc724 925]

I just saw the you tube video.  Nice job.  I have not mounted mine yet for the season but the sub frame is on.  I probably need some attention to the control valve on mine.  Screams like a banshee on bucket roll but not at all on the lift cylinders.

 

BTW, after 4 on-off cycles (seasons), I finally figured out how to get the sub frame on without lifting the tractor.  It is so easy you will laugh

1.  Position the sub frame so that each side of the rear of the frame is on either side of the right rear tire (left is ok also)

2.  Slide the frame forward enough so that the uprights clear the mid tach a matic (the uprights are now under the steering mechanism which has more clearance)

3.  Push the frame to the opposite side of the tractor to the upright is where it belongs

4.  Align the rear of the frame with the rear hard points and put the pins in.

5.  Lift the front of the subframe into the tach a matic and lock it in place.  This is the hardest step for me because I am too dumb to use a lever to lift it up.  I bet a long handled shovel will be the perfect lever-have to try that next spring

[Snowmobileaddict 403]

15 hours ago, doc724 said:

I just saw the you tube video.  Nice job.  I have not mounted mine yet for the season but the sub frame is on.  I probably need some attention to the control valve on mine.  Screams like a banshee on bucket roll but not at all on the lift cylinders.

 

BTW, after 4 on-off cycles (seasons), I finally figured out how to get the sub frame on without lifting the tractor.  It is so easy you will laugh

1.  Position the sub frame so that each side of the rear of the frame is on either side of the right rear tire (left is ok also)

2.  Slide the frame forward enough so that the uprights clear the mid tach a matic (the uprights are now under the steering mechanism which has more clearance)

3.  Push the frame to the opposite side of the tractor to the upright is where it belongs

4.  Align the rear of the frame with the rear hard points and put the pins in.

5.  Lift the front of the subframe into the tach a matic and lock it in place.  This is the hardest step for me because I am too dumb to use a lever to lift it up.  I bet a long handled shovel will be the perfect lever-have to try that next spring

 

My control valve screamed too like you describe.  I found it was the relief valve setting (set too low).  I adjusted mine tighter maybe an 1/8th turn, just enough to make it stop.  I have read that KW shipped theirs with a very conservative relief valve setting.  I've seen several message board posts across many tractor boards describing this.

 

[WNYPCRepair 1,921]

My pump seems to make noise on lowering the bucket. Almost like it is building up pressure and making it harder to turn.

[doc724 925]

Thanks Andy, I will give a look when I mount the loader next week.  I also appreciate the "precision" of your advice:  "1/8 turn" v.just "turn"

[Snowmobileaddict 403]

21 hours ago, doc724 said:

Thanks Andy, I will give a look when I mount the loader next week.  I also appreciate the "precision" of your advice:  "1/8 turn" v.just "turn"

 

 

I think I've read that the newer Kwik-way loader valves have a more tamper-proof relief valve employing a plastic cap or cover.  You might have to get medieval on it (like Marsellus Wallace) with a channel locks pliers to get at the adjustment screw.  I think I recall reading a post from Forest Road on this message board saying his kwik-way loader on his 5xi had a protective cap on the relief valve that had to be removed that way.

 

Mine is the older style valve and the relief adjustment is a snap.  There is a jam nut and a long socket head setscrew.  I just backed off the jam nut and tightened the setscrew which presses against a spring an ball in the relief valve port.  I think Brian's valve is similar to mine in that its easy to adjust.  However, the valve Brian has may not be adjustable to as low a PSI setting as the stock Kwik-Way valves.  I think I read that in the valve specs on surplus centers literature.

 

The Kwik-way relief valves are dialed down to like 5-6 hundred PSI so I'm told.  I think the surplus center valves can only be dialed down to like 2,000 PSI.  If that's the case, that means that a user with a surplus center valve would need to exercise more caution when considering load limits. 

 

If the relief valve doesn't open till that high of a pressure, you could be lifting something that may be so heavy as it may bend or break something on the loader frame or tractor.  You'd also need to review counterweight specs for a valve with a significantly higher relief valve setting over stock.      

Edited April 21, 2016 by Snowmobileaddict

[doc724 925]

Yes, I have the tamper proof cover.  Back when I was a young engineer, a much older engineer once told me that someone had to put it together, therefore you should be able to take it apart.  That was obviously before today's high tech adhesives and ultrasonic welding were developed.

[Snowmobileaddict 403]

1 hour ago, doc724 said:

Yes, I have the tamper proof cover.  Back when I was a young engineer, a much older engineer once told me that someone had to put it together, therefore you should be able to take it apart.  That was obviously before today's high tech adhesives and ultrasonic welding were developed.

 

Found the post I was thinking of....

 

Some recommended reading is here when considering diddling with loader relief valves:

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/42132-loader-hydraulic-issues/#comment-383122

 

http://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/22744/299627.html?1444703160

(the pic at the bottom of the second linked thread shows what I believe to be the exact sauer danfoss valve that KW shipped.

And a pic of the tamper proof cap on the newer valves shipped on KW units

 

For comparison, here is an old school relief valve begging to be tampered  with:

Edited April 22, 2016 by Snowmobileaddict

[WNYPCRepair 1,921]

Welded in the front cross brace, mounted the hoses to it, and straightened them up a bit. Much cleaner looking.

 

 

 

Then I ran another test
 

 

 

 

Now I need to finish the rear hitch and put the weight box on, and order some dirt and mulch.

The weight box is removable, I caught the HF cargo carrier that Andy used on sale so cheap I couldn't build anything for less, but once the weight box is on it won't fit in my garage any more. I'll have to figure out what to do about that, I don't want to have to put it outside. I guess for now, I'll have to load the box every time, or park it in the tent, I can always put my brother in law's piece of crap Deere outside.  

[WNYPCRepair 1,921]

 

 

 

 

 

 

Seems to operate a bit smoother with 300 pounds of block, plus wheel weights, plus my 240 pounds.

 

 

[312Hydro 474]

Good looking setup! 

[WNYPCRepair 1,921]

1 hour ago, 312Hydro said:

Good looking setup! 

 

 

It made short work of that pile of shredded tree branches. Can't exactly call it mulch, as nasty as it is.

Topsoil (12 yards) and real mulch (6 yards) coming Tuesday.

[WNYPCRepair 1,921]

I'll be giving the loader a workout

 

 

Edited June 28, 2016 by WNYPCRepair

[Forest Road 594]

Job well done! My relief valve was a screamer as well. I had to hack saw the tamper proof cap off. It's a differ t machine toady! I found some photo of her performing some work around the place. 

 

It's brush cleanup time upstate. Just threw the saws up there to get my wife asking questions. It worked! A 5 X 10 trailer makes for a much better yard cart. The hitch was built by Scotty Moreaus friend Tom. 

 

 

Edited June 30, 2016 by Forest Road

[WheelHorseNut 222]

On June 28, 2016 at 1:24 PM, WNYPCRepair said:

I'll be giving the loader a workout

 

 

I have to say, this was an amazing build!  Very well done.  I'm extremely impressed.

[WNYPCRepair 1,921]

Thanks, guys. So far, all the welds have held, too.

That is 12 yards of topsoil, and 6 yards of mulch to move.  I started yesterday afternoon, but I barely put a dent in the piles.

 

[WNYPCRepair 1,921]

There were two of those bushes when I started, now they are both gone. 

 

 

The he dirt is like concrete, I was standing  on the shovel, but could only get it in about a half inch. I tried lifting them out with the bucket, which just resulted in lifting the rear of the tractor and straightening the hooks on a cargo strap. 

 

Finally put put it in reverse, hi range, and floored it. Popped it right out. I was left with about 3 inches of roots. My wife wanted to try to save them, but I doubt they will survive. 

 

 

[steveman14 0]

I found some double ferrule compression tube fittings like the ones WNYPCRepair linked to.  You can find them here, same pressure ratings, not sure about price difference.

 

http://www.titanfittings.com/Dual-Ferrule-Tube-fittings-s/1843.htm