Wheel Hub Puller

[kingnothing71us 108]

Hi guys! I just thought I'd share with everyone the hub puller I made. I tried different store bought pullers and none of them worked. Since I work in a fab shop I decided to make my own. I had 2 pieces of half inch plate burned out to 5.75" and welded them together, I then used a transfer punch and the hole pattern on a rear rim for my hole layout. I drilled the holes out big enough for the 7/16-20 bolts to go through. I drilled and tapped a 3/4-10 hole in the center, used allthread with a nut welded to one end and threaded it through. I bolted the puller to the hub with all 5 bolts and used my impact gun to drive the allthread through. It took a little bit but the hub broke free and came off with no damage what-so-ever. I also had a 3 bolt hub on the other axle and that came off even easier. The puller is real easy to make if you have the tools. Here is a picture. The pipe wrench was used to keep the axle still. 

[squonk 41,639]

If you used fine thread for the center screw you would develop more pulling power. Also if you used longer bolts for the hub, you can use nuts on the back side of the hub to spread the load more. Nice puller though! 

[Ed Kennell 39,148]

Nice Mike.  Two things I miss after retiring.....my coworkers and access to a well equipped fab and machine shop.

[Retired Sparky 526]

Brother you hit a nerve there.     The old crew the old gang. 

And when you retire, nobody stops by to see who the old man is doing.    What ever.

Edited March 1, 2016 by Retired Sparky

[WHX?? 49,483]

Well both you guys could go back to work!!!

[kingnothing71us 108]

Squonk, I know about the fine thread but I was running out of time and needed it done before the end of the work day so I used what I had on hand without having to dig for it...LOL. I could always drill out the center hole and rethread it with something a little bigger. Although, it worked great the way it is. If I make another one, it will be better.

[daveoman1966 3,762]

to reduce friction, try taping a 3/8 or 1/2" (or larger)  ball bearing to the approx. center of the axle before mounting the hub puller.  The 3/4 center bolt will contact  only the face of this ball bearing instead of the full face of the axle shaft....thereby reducing the friction / resistance .... Just a thought. 

[Ed Kennell 39,148]

                                                                                        

 

        And center drill the threaded rod to keep the ball in place...then use a good high pressure grease on the ball and the threads.

[Retired Sparky 526]

6 hours ago, WHX6 said:

Well both you guys could go back to work!!!

I put in 40yrs in industrial construction.  Nobody has a job for a plus 65 yr. guy with two new hips.   I've got 6 acres to take care of here.   Thanks anyway.

18 hours ago, kingnothing71us said:

Hi guys! I just thought I'd share with everyone the hub puller I made. I tried different store bought pullers and none of them worked. Since I work in a fab shop I decided to make my own. I had 2 pieces of half inch plate burned out to 5.75" and welded them together, I then used a transfer punch and the hole pattern on a rear rim for my hole layout. I drilled the holes out big enough for the 7/16-20 bolts to go through. I drilled and tapped a 3/4-10 hole in the center, used allthread with a nut welded to one end and threaded it through. I bolted the puller to the hub with all 5 bolts and used my impact gun to drive the allthread through. It took a little bit but the hub broke free and came off with no damage what-so-ever. I also had a 3 bolt hub on the other axle and that came off even easier. The puller is real easy to make if you have the tools. Here is a picture. The pipe wrench was used to keep the axle still. 

   On that puller you built.  I don't have the means to tap a 3/4'' hole in a 1'' plate. (I'm retired)  Do you think welding a 3/4'' nut on the plate would work??

Edited February 29, 2016 by Retired Sparky

[Ed Kennell 39,148]

6 hours ago, WHX6 said:

Well both you guys could go back to work!!!

Whaaattt you talkin bout Jimmy ??

[doc724 925]

Friction is not a function of area.  F=uN where u (pronounced mew) is the coefficient of friction and N is the normal force.  If you want to reduce frictional forces, change u by using any type of lubricant. One can put forth an argument that the surface of a ball bearing is smoother than the face of an axle and that is a true statement and yes the frictional force will be reduced, but not nearly as much as by using a lubricant.  In pulling a hub, the frictional force on the thread and between the puller bolt and the axle face is peanuts when compared to the stiction (sliding friction) between the hub and axle due to corrosion and galling.

[WHX?? 49,483]

8 hours ago, WHX6 said:

Well both you guys could go back to work!!!

I knew that would get a rise outta ya!!!!

[Retired Sparky 526]

51 minutes ago, doc724 said:

Friction is not a function of area.  F=uN where u (pronounced mew) is the coefficient of friction and N is the normal force.  If you want to reduce frictional forces, change u by using any type of lubricant. One can put forth an argument that the surface of a ball bearing is smoother than the face of an axle and that is a true statement and yes the frictional force will be reduced, but not nearly as much as by using a lubricant.  In pulling a hub, the frictional force on the thread and between the puller bolt and the axle face is peanuts when compared to the stiction (sliding friction) between the hub and axle due to corrosion and galling.

OK Doc, I think you lost me. Are you saying it is more important  to lube up all the threaded parts that are providing  the turning force??  I understand the ball bearing part.  It has a smaller surface area so should reduce friction. Right?? 

[Retired Sparky 526]

13 hours ago, squonk said:

If you used fine thread for the center screw you would develop more pulling power. Also if you used longer bolts for the hub, you can use nuts on the back side of the hub to spread the load more. Nice puller though! 

Question:  Are you saying you'd have nuts between the hub flange and puller plate to add pressure on the hub?  Center force on the axle plus tightened the nuts to add pressure against the hub.  Have I got that right??  

[Ed Kennell 39,148]

Spark, I'm sure Mike was saying to use longer bolts turning them thru the tapped holes in the hub and adding nuts to the back or inside of the hub to spread the pulling force on the cast hub to help keep it from breaking  or the threads from pulling out.

IMO,  the addition of the ball with centering joint will help to reduce friction as It insures the threaded puller rod will remain centered in the axle and will not walk to one side as it is turned therefore adding side load to the threads and increasing  friction.    The ball , being a dissimilar metal from the mild steel axle and threaded rod ,will also insure there is no galling between the stationary and moving parts..

Of course high pressure grease lubrication is a given.

[squonk 41,639]

12 hours ago, Retired Sparky said:

 

   On that puller you built.  I don't have the means to tap a 3/4'' hole in a 1'' plate. (I'm retired)  Do you think welding a 3/4'' nut on the plate would work??

I used 7/8" fine all thread and welded 2 nuts together to make a high surface area for the threads to grab.

 

8 hours ago, ekennell said:

Spark, I'm sure Mike was saying to use longer bolts turning them thru the tapped holes in the hub and adding nuts to the back or inside of the hub to spread the pulling force on the cast hub to help keep it from breaking  or the threads from pulling out.

 

[doc724 925]

12 hours ago, Retired Sparky said:

OK Doc, I think you lost me. Are you saying it is more important  to lube up all the threaded parts that are providing  the turning force??  I understand the ball bearing part.  It has a smaller surface area so should reduce friction. Right?? 

 

Frictional force is only affected by the coefficient of friction and normal (meaning at right angles to the moving parts) force applied.  I would apply lubricant to the threads and to the interface between the bolt and the axle where the bolt contacts it.  The only reason the ball bearing has any affect is not because of its size but because its surface is smoother.  Here is a simple way to prove how friction works.  Take a can of soup, stand it on end on the countertop and push it with your finger.  Now take a piece of sandpaper and tape it to the countertop.  Put the can of soup on it (standing up) and now try to push it with your finger.  It is harder to push with the sandpaper under it-why?  The only thing that was changed was the coefficient of friction.  Hope this helps

[Retired Sparky 526]

11 hours ago, ekennell said:

Spark, I'm sure Mike was saying to use longer bolts turning them thru the tapped holes in the hub and adding nuts to the back or inside of the hub to spread the pulling force on the cast hub to help keep it from breaking  or the threads from pulling out.

IMO,  the addition of the ball with centering joint will help to reduce friction as It insures the threaded puller rod will remain centered in the axle and will not walk to one side as it is turned therefore adding side load to the threads and increasing  friction.    The ball , being a dissimilar metal from the mild steel axle and threaded rod ,will also insure there is no galling between the stationary and moving parts..

Of course high pressure grease lubrication is a given.

   I've been greasing parts for 50 yrs. Define ''high pressure grease''. 

1 hour ago, doc724 said:

 

Frictional force is only affected by the coefficient of friction and normal (meaning at right angles to the moving parts) force applied.  I would apply lubricant to the threads and to the interface between the bolt and the axle where the bolt contacts it.  The only reason the ball bearing has any affect is not because of its size but because its surface is smoother.  Here is a simple way to prove how friction works.  Take a can of soup, stand it on end on the countertop and push it with your finger.  Now take a piece of sandpaper and tape it to the countertop.  Put the can of soup on it (standing up) and now try to push it with your finger.  It is harder to push with the sandpaper under it-why?  The only thing that was changed was the coefficient of friction.  Hope this helps

Brother you know your onions.  I wanted to make sure I understood where the grease was to be applied and to what effect it was to the whole process.

        Thanks.  

[Ed Kennell 39,148]

In general, the Lithium and Zinc-Oxide based greases are usually considered high pressure (high load - low speed) lubricants.

I personally prefer Lubriplate  630-AA  for assembly and water proofing of all threaded fasteners and sliding parts. It has good adhesion and holds up well in a wet environment and is easier to clean up than the Zinc Oxide based products.        I do not recommend it for bearing and gear lubrication.

 

[ztnoo 2,298]

Great puller!

[Retired Sparky 526]

On 3/1/2016 at 10:27 AM, ekennell said:

In general, the Lithium and Zinc-Oxide based greases are usually considered high pressure (high load - low speed) lubricants.

I personally prefer Lubriplate  630-AA  for assembly and water proofing of all threaded fasteners and sliding parts. It has good adhesion and holds up well in a wet environment and is easier to clean up than the Zinc Oxide based products.        I do not recommend it for bearing and gear lubrication.

 

                                      

 

                                        I got it. So quality grease from a can, not grease from a tube.

 

 

[can whlvr 993]

in answer to the question could a nut be welded on instead of threading,sure,why not,thats how I built my puller from angle iron and a large bolt with nut

[pfrederi 17,970]

You want to pull a hub on a D...The flange will not take the stress if it is really stuck you have to pull from behind the hub.  The tubes were thick wall 1-1/4' and that is not an illusion they bent during the pull.  Behind the hub is a 3/4" plus a 1/4" thick pieces of steel 1" total