jgun45879 191 #1 Posted February 20, 2016 I have a 1998 WH 312-8 model tractor with a 12.5hp Kohler Command engine. I need an ignition switch for it. The Wheel Horse part number is: 92-6785. I have found them on E-Bay and at a couple of dealers and the prices are all in the 50.00 range which seems very high for just a simple INDAK switch. Can anyone give me the part number for a cheaper alternative switch? There must be another application where this switch is used. Thank You for any help you can give. Jim. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,171 #2 Posted February 20, 2016 That is the only switch I see that is available. Are you 100% sure the ignition switch has failed? This model does use a complicated wiring system so lots of room for failure. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #3 Posted February 20, 2016 The Indak P/N for this switch is R464A. I did a lot of research on this as my 5xi uses the same switch and I have some funky behavior going on where the fuel solenoid cuts out. Still working on that one. Anyway, Indak did not return my call so I called their distributor who did not have any in stock. However, they did offer that they did have others who bought that switch. MTD P/N is 925-3021 and Briggs P/N is 7019543. I checked those prices and they are $25-30. If it sounds to good to be true...... you know the rest. This particular switch is a 4 position switch (the fourth position being the headlight position). Older WH ignition switches are 3 position (for under $20) and the headlights are controlled by a simple toggle. You could make some simple rewiring changes, buy the three position switch and add a simple toggle for $7 Anyway, I reluctantly bought the "toro" switch. I think it was $47 at Jacks small engine. My reasoning was that in my fuel circuit there are three electrical items which control fuel flow; ignition switch, relay, fuel solenoid. Your machine is likely identical (I have a 1998 314-8 as well). Ignition switch is half the cost of the fuel solenoid so I picked the least costly part to replace first and relays I can swap around. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,171 #4 Posted February 20, 2016 Here is the 92-6785 ignition switch test proceedure Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jgun45879 191 #5 Posted February 21, 2016 Thank You for the information. Jim. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #6 Posted February 21, 2016 Well my $47 ignition switch for my 520xi was delivered yesterday. Put it in today, a 15 minute exercise. Although it is an Indak switch of supposedly the correct P/N, it is a bit different but functionally is the same...with one exception. After I put it in, the battery charge light stays on. It was not that way when I started the tractor 2 weeks ago. I suppose something could have changed with the super cold weather of last weekend, but it does seem coincidental. For now, i am going to leave well enough alone. If the tractor runs without the fuel cutoff losing voltage, I will have solved the problem. If not, it is onto the next item in the electrical chain. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shallowwatersailor 3,214 #7 Posted February 21, 2016 4 minutes ago, doc724 said: Well my $47 ignition switch for my 520xi was delivered yesterday. Put it in today, a 15 minute exercise. Although it is an Indak switch of supposedly the correct P/N, it is a bit different but functionally is the same...with one exception. After I put it in, the battery charge light stays on. It was not that way when I started the tractor 2 weeks ago. I suppose something could have changed with the super cold weather of last weekend, but it does seem coincidental. For now, i am going to leave well enough alone. If the tractor runs without the fuel cutoff losing voltage, I will have solved the problem. If not, it is onto the next item in the electrical chain. Don, did you check the voltage at the battery with it running? If the voltage is good, it sounds like the dreaded electrical module problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #8 Posted February 22, 2016 Not yet. Checked the schematic, there is a voltage comparator that drives the light. Need to poke around a bit more. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shallowwatersailor 3,214 #9 Posted February 22, 2016 43 minutes ago, doc724 said: Not yet. Checked the schematic, there is a voltage comparator that drives the light. Need to poke around a bit more. Just curious, do you have the three wire, or five wire module? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #10 Posted February 22, 2016 I have not even found the module (although I have not looked too hard). Some years ago I did find the voltage regulator which is tucked under the left side of the engine against the frame. You have to pull the engine to get at it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shallowwatersailor 3,214 #11 Posted February 22, 2016 Don, it should be on the firewall. The five wire (1st photo) is about the size of a deck of cards, and the three wire (2nd photo) is a bit smaller. And then there is the diesel! It actually is not as bad as it looks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #12 Posted February 23, 2016 John, thx for the tip. I have the 3 wire version. I will give a more detailed look in a couple of days. I think all that is in this is an OP amp to drive the light and pull up or pull down resistors to set the voltage threshold. Could be as simple as a corroded contact...or not. Took me forever to find the module on the IPL-$80 ouch. Have to go on the hunt for the OEM Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
