stevasaurus 22,884 #26 Posted March 25, 2016 That is your reverse idler...racinfool40 should have one of those if you want to replace it. Those detente balls are a riot, aren't they? I'm thinking I would replace it, as long as you have it open. That gear never stops turning as long as your input shaft is turning. It is always 1/2 engaged with the cluster gear and the other half with the fork gear when you shift into reverse. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #27 Posted March 25, 2016 OK I'll think it over and figure out what I feel like doing with the gear. Them things are a real , i had them apart, tried getting it back together and plink, the ball dropped all the way through. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,331 #28 Posted March 26, 2016 Don't feel alone with the detent ball problem. While working on my 5060 I spent 1/2 hour looking for one only to find it on the pen magnet I was using! Grrrrrrr! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,474 #29 Posted March 26, 2016 (edited) 57 minutes ago, MalMac said: Don't feel alone with the detent ball problem. While working on my 5060 I spent 1/2 hour looking for one only to find it on the pen magnet I was using! Grrrrrrr! We had a guy at work on 2nd shift working on a bed. He dropped a screw and was using our battery powered work light to find it. Only problem was the light had a magnet on it. The screw was special with a shoulder and a beveled head. Next day when he came in he was ranting about losing this screw. I went over to where the light was hanging and sure enough, the screw was stuck on the magnet! Edited March 26, 2016 by squonk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,966 #30 Posted March 26, 2016 1 hour ago, MalMac said: I spent 1/2 hour looking for one Had the same problem, found an old bearing with the same size balls, opened it up and dropped two or three more before finishing. Fished them all out with a magnet once I was done. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,884 #31 Posted March 26, 2016 I've got 5 transmissions open in the garage now. Tools and parts all over the place. I'll have them back together as much as possible in a couple of weeks. Then I can start to look for a 1/2" drive socket and one of my Allen wrenches that escaped a few weeks ago. It is quite the mess out there now, but I'll get there. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #32 Posted March 26, 2016 It seems like no matter how often I organize the garage is still a mess. But a question for the more knowledgeable, what threaded plug does it take for the hole in the detent passage, mine never had a plug and I want to fix it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,884 #33 Posted March 26, 2016 It is a 1/4" hole. It is not threaded. Just take a finger of grease or silicone calk and put in the hole...it will not leak. It is tight up against the mounting plate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #34 Posted March 26, 2016 Does it work as vent or weep hole, I was thinking about tapping it and putting a small plug in it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,260 #35 Posted March 26, 2016 No, it doesn't act as a vent but I don't see a need to tap and plug it. As Steve said, it's completely covered when the transmission is mounted. You might end up with a plug that won't come out if you ever have to service it again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,884 #36 Posted March 26, 2016 That hole's soul purpose in life is just to be able to put the detente balls, spring and stop in the transmission. If you put something in there that is not flush with the outside, your trans will not mount right against the frame plate. I have a 702 transmission that I did nothing with that hole and it does not leak. Either grease or calk or nothing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #37 Posted March 26, 2016 Roger that, I'll just grease it up. the hole where the shift rail slides in that you need to drop the detent ball in, I thought of putting grease in it to help hold the ball in place until I can get the rail in, might try that out next time I go to work on it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #38 Posted March 29, 2016 Got my detent ball back in finally, but I'll probably pull it all back part and clen it 1 more time, the reverse idler gear, does the beveled side go up or down when putting it back together? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,884 #39 Posted March 29, 2016 The flanged end of the idler gear goes down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #40 Posted March 31, 2016 So I've got it all apart for the 2nd time, I don't like the way my hi/low rail looks being run a lil rough. Any ideas or am I gonna need to just find a new one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,884 #41 Posted March 31, 2016 It is hard to tell from the picture how bad it is. If you want to change it...PM Racinfool40. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #42 Posted March 31, 2016 On the top rail of the fork its starting to get worn thin on each edge, I've found it online and beins I needed a gasket I ordered the fork assembly as well. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shanedean2525@gmail.com 1 #43 Posted March 31, 2016 On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 2:58 PM, stevasaurus said: All of the bearings and seals are available for the #5060 transmission. The bearing that the differential rides in WH #1533 is NLA, but you can obtain good used ones from one of the members here if you need it. If you find that you need one, send a PM to Racinfool40 (Mike)...he has those bearings and replacement gears if you need anything. Thank you. I really appreciate the help! I just need 2 of the 1533 bearings to put back my 1963 - 753s' transmission. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
