grine_22 145 #1 Posted February 13, 2016 I have a raider 12 with the 5060 trans. On the right side there is the input shaft, an open bearing and the axle. Is the middle bearing supposed to be a capped bearing or is there a plug on the end of it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,885 #2 Posted February 13, 2016 It is supposed to be a capped bearing...Wheel Horse #1532 which crosses to KOYO M-16121. If you go to MotionIndustries.com and type in 00090903 in their search box, you will get a picture and dimensions of the bearing. You will have to open the transmission to replace it...not a hard job to do. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #3 Posted February 13, 2016 Thanks. I plan on opening it up eventually, just waiting. Ordered double seals for axles and shafts that way if I mess one up I've got a spare. Next thing, I've read the axle bearings are NLA, correct? No replacent bearings have been found for these? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,885 #4 Posted February 13, 2016 All of the bearings and seals are available for the #5060 transmission. The bearing that the differential rides in WH #1533 is NLA, but you can obtain good used ones from one of the members here if you need it. If you find that you need one, send a PM to Racinfool40 (Mike)...he has those bearings and replacement gears if you need anything. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #5 Posted February 13, 2016 Alright. Appreciate the help. When I get to going on it I'll hafta watch your instructional threads! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #6 Posted February 14, 2016 I pulled the brake band off and this is what I find, the bearing is flush and seal is not even pressed into the housing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry M-(Moderator) 2,176 #7 Posted February 14, 2016 28 minutes ago, grine_22 said: I pulled the brake band off and this is what I find, the bearing is flush and seal is not even pressed into the housing. Hmmm, do you think it's possible that some excess axiel, end to end movement of the" internals" caused not only the seal to push out, but also the cap of the bearing to also push off? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #8 Posted February 14, 2016 I believe the problem was caused 2 years ago. I had the tractor in an unheated shed at my old house, the shifter would not move over winter. Once it thawed out I drained the crankcase and water/brown sludge came out. Im thinking when the water froze it caused the damage that I'm seeing now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,885 #9 Posted February 14, 2016 What is the history of this horse?? How long have you had it? It looks like all of the seals are leaking a little. I find it hard to believe that a cap bearing would loose it's cap and look like it was never there. That hole is where your 11/44 toothed gear is (you can see the bottom of the gear), and the brake shaft is the other end. Those bearings are not going to slide out flush with the casting, unless (maybe, and I say maybe) frozen. That mushroom gear is not able to slide back and forth enough to cause what you have there. Regardless, I think someone has been in there and did not know what they were doing. when they put it back together. No way that brake shaft bearing is going to push out a seal against a brake drum that has a "C" clip holding it. Your thoughts please? BTW...there is absolutely no way that the mushroom gear could move far enough to the right in the transmission housing to even think about touching the bottom end of that "cap" bearing...and your transmission still works. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,331 #10 Posted February 14, 2016 I am leaning to the fact that some one had been in there and had no clue what they were doing. There have been a lot of frozen transmissions and I have seen none do that. Seen them actually bust the case and split but not push out bearings. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #11 Posted February 14, 2016 I don't know the history of it. I own a scrap yard and the PO brought it in saying the carb or fuel pump was bad. Tore into it and the rod was snapped. New rod and it purred like a kitten. Mowed the grass with it for a month this last year until the rod journal got too warm. It still ran and drove fine in all gears hi and low. It may be someone was in there, when I replaced the one axle seal on the same side of the brake band the seal was on backwards, as was the seal behind the brake when I popped the pulley off. Regardless it'll get split at some point this year, but before I do I'd rather have all bearings and seals on hand for the project. I've got axle seals, as well as seals for break and drive shafts, and I ordered a new cap bearing for the old open one. What other bearings am I in need of? If I'm gonna do it itll be done right the first time. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,885 #12 Posted February 14, 2016 Like I said above...all seals and bearings are readily available from like NAPA, Motion Industries the next day. If you might need a #1533 differential carriage bearing...Mike has good used ones. He is in central, west end of Ohio. Might not be far from you. He also has all the gears for the #5060 10 pinion, limited slip differential and transmission. At this point, I doubt you will need a lot of that...but some one (and I'm being kind here) was in there. I would open it as soon as the weather gets nice, if you like that horse...got to be hard to keep oil in the trans with no cap on that bearing. In the 1st post of this link, you want the 3rd PDF for your #5060 tranny...uni-drive trans 3 All the bearing and seal numbers. The video thread is in the Reference Section under Transmissions on the main page. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,331 #13 Posted February 14, 2016 Hi jacking the thread here a moment. Steve do you know offhand who makes the bearings for NAPA or Motion Industries? It's time for me to start buying bearings and Seals. I really favor the National Seals. They still use metal in there small seals. So many are starting to use all rubber/hard plastic. Ok hi jacking done I'll return you to your regularly scheduled program. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #14 Posted February 14, 2016 2 minutes ago, MalMac said: Hi jacking the thread here a moment. Steve do you know offhand who makes the bearings for NAPA or Motion Industries? It's time for me to start buying bearings and Seals. I really favor the National Seals. They still use metal in there small seals. So many are starting to use all rubber/hard plastic. Ok hi jacking done I'll return you to your regularly scheduled program. No worries! I sure appreciate all the input from the ones who have more knowledge. Its enjoyable working on these older machines. I'm younger but I know they sure don't make things like they used too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,885 #15 Posted February 15, 2016 I'm not sure who NAPA uses. Motion Industries uses KOYO and Torrington bearings and SKF,( old Chicago Rawhide name) for their seals. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,992 #16 Posted February 15, 2016 NAPA uses SKF in most cases I have seen ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,474 #17 Posted February 16, 2016 Napa SKF bearings and Chicago Rawhide seals. Advance Auto Timken and National Seals 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #18 Posted February 18, 2016 Question for Steve, I have looked at the PDF for my trans, it calls for a brake shaft seal of skf 7410, but my brake shaft is 1 inch and I am not seeing the bearings or seals for it on the 3rd PDF, can you point me in the right direction please 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,260 #19 Posted February 18, 2016 (edited) The 1" seal is a WH 1232 crossing to a CR 9815. The bearing is a WH 1530 crossing to a B 1612 Edited February 18, 2016 by Racinbob 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #20 Posted February 18, 2016 Thanks Bob!! I think I've got everything here or ordered for the trans, 2 axle bearings and seals, brake shaft seal/ bearing, input seal/bearing and mushroom gear capped bearing. Is that everything or am I missing something? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,885 #21 Posted February 18, 2016 You might have more then you need, but, if you are going to replace all the bearings (except the #1533) you also have the bearing on the other end of the cluster gear shaft, a bearing on the other end of the spline shaft, and another cap bearing for the other end of the mushroom gear. I would wait until you open it first. You can get any of those bearings in a day. Just for reference...the PDFs are accurate for the transmissions...but they do not cover all of them. The thing is...measure the shaft, look at the manual and get the WH #...then look through the PDFs and find the WH # and the cross reference will be there.. If it says use a WH #1528...look through the PDFs and find that WH # in the listings...it is a B-1616 no mater where they use it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #22 Posted February 18, 2016 Thanks fellas! I'll hafta print out the first 2 PDFs so I have them for reference as well. I get this machine done then I can pick up the other 2 machines I acquired at start on those 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #23 Posted March 24, 2016 Question for the experienced minds, on the 1533 bearing should the casting be visible inside the center of the bearing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,885 #24 Posted March 25, 2016 The answer to your question is "yes"...and that bearing appears to be OK. That is why everyone has a problem trying to get them out...you can't just tap them out from the back. If they are both good...leave them in place. Your transmission looks real nice and clean. I had to check the manual to verify that the bolts in the differential are in the correct way (with the nuts toward the right hand side of the case)...your is correct for your transmission. It would seem that you only have to replace some bearings and seals and seat the bearings in enough to accept the seals. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #25 Posted March 25, 2016 Everything looks to be in good shape for its age, I'll just replace the bearings and put it back together. Getting the spring and detent balls in seem to be a challenge, struggled with that last night, I've had the gears in and out 3 times now. Only thing that is not right is the small chip in this gear 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites