Snowblower Bearings

[arminer8 4]

I have a snowblower that has a bad bearing inside the auger on the chain side. Took it apart, and now I can't find a bearing like the one I need! One thing I need to know is if these parts are metric or American? If it is American, it is a 3/4" inside diameter, 1 5/8" outside diameter, 7/16" width. Anybody have a place they get them? Near Rochester, MN. It is a model 53321 snowblower I think as the model # plate is really scratched up. 

Edited February 1, 2016 by arminer8

[doc724 927]

The old bearing should have a mfg part number on it.  Find it and then take it to NAPA.  I am sure there is an SKF equivalent.

[Ed Kennell 47,043]

If you can't find a number, NAPA should also be able to measure it and find a duplicate.

[N3PUY 1,031]

R12-2RS     Sealed Bearing 3/4 x 1 5/8 x 7/16 inch Ball Bearings

 

Look for this size.

[roadapples 6,987]

There ya` go, and welcome to Red Square..

[arminer8 4]

8 hours ago, roadapples said:

There ya` go, and welcome to Red Square..

I can't find a part number, but I plan on taking it to NAPA after school and see if they have one in the shop. If they don't have one, I'm going to take it to a welding shop nearby because I heard they have a great selection of bearings like that. I'd like to get it today, because we're supposed to get 8-12 inches of snow tomorrow! 

[Kurt-NEPA 756]

My 79360 single stage had 1630-2RS bearings on the inside of the auger shaft.  I'm not sure which model you have of if they are the same bearings..  You could try a local bearing house or NAPA or just order online at USA Bearings and Belts.  1630-2RS bearing are common inexpensive bearings.

 

http://www.usabearingsandbelts.com/18.html?m7:search[keyword]=1630-2RS;search[keywordSearchType]=phrase;search[matchWholeWords]=0;search[keywordFields]=text0:text2:text3:string0:code:text1;search[nested]=1;search[group]=735037;search[fuzzy_sku]=1

 

Kurt

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,471]

I believe this is correct

 

Wheel Horse #1545 and 8649 replaced by Toro 101411 - 3/4" x 1-5/8" x 7/16" - Generic # R12-2RS

Wheel Horse #1515 replaced by Toro 101480 - 3/4" x 1-5/8" x 1/2" - Generic # 1630-2RS

 

Garry

[arminer8 4]

I found two of them at a local bearing and welding shop. Fit perfectly and blowing snow today!

[Lane Ranger 12,094]

This posting by Bob Maynard is a very good read on buying replacement bearings and bushings that will work on the old snowblowers   with the #5269 bearing in them.   Also works for sickle bar mowers that had the same insert bearing set up.

 

 

[Lane Ranger 12,094]

On 10/5/2016 at 9:08 AM, Lane Ranger said:

This posting by Bob Maynard is a very good read on buying replacement bearings and bushings that will work on the old snowblowers   with the #5269 bearing in them.   Also works for sickle bar mowers that had the same insert bearing set up.

 

 

 

 

This Posting from 2012 by Bob Maynard is a good reference for finding replacement bearings  for your Old Snowblower or Sickle Bar Mower that used the Wheel Horse  #5269  Bearings.

 

[vanillaman 11]

I found them at a local Toro dealer at $25.00 each. Napa didn't have them in stock but could get for me at $50.00 each.                                                                                                          Dick 

[Pat058 2]

Wanted to say Thank You to Bob for posting how he repaired the drive bearings on the snow blower.  I followed all your part numbers and had my thrower working in 3 days.  Called Toro dealer near me for the correct bearings, and they wanted 130 dollars for each one.  No way was I paying 260 bucks for a couple of Chinese bearings.  What a great site. I found so much info from everyone’s old posts helping me keep my old 520H and 416-8 running.  Thank you to everyone.  What an awesome idea.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,471]

On 1/31/2016 at 2:16 PM, arminer8 said:

I have a snowblower that has a bad bearing inside the auger on the chain side. Took it apart, and now I can't find a bearing like the one I need! One thing I need to know is if these parts are metric or American? If it is American, it is a 3/4" inside diameter, 1 5/8" outside diameter, 7/16" width. Anybody have a place they get them? Near Rochester, MN. It is a model 53321 snowblower I think as the model # plate is really scratched up. 

This is a snowthrower with a mower deck ID plate - model 5-3321 - 32" RD deck for a 1968 Lawn Ranger.

The snowthrower for the 1968 Lawn Ranger was model 6-3211.

Wonder how that happened?

Here is another 1968

[Pat058 2]

According to Bob Maynard, the drive shaft bearings were the same for 7 different model numbers with the 1968 included. I wonder if the auger bearings are the same too.  I’m going to see if I can get mine to last through this winter, then I might call Toro one day or look on their web site and see if there is a cross reference for the new bearing numbers vs. the old number.  I had to do that to get brake parts for my old 325D when I had it 3-4 years ago.  Might have to retro fit a different size ID type and use a bearing sleeve since wheelhorse used these “insert bearings”.  Bob’s post with details saved my ass. Maybe he left more words of wisdom on here regarding the auger and chain drive.  Seems like the design didn’t change for 30 years so we got that going for us.  That UC205-14 bearing he suggested is everywhere, bearingson.com, grainger, I got all mine and the sleeves on Amazon.  Somebody suggested using 3/4 copper for a sleeve. I’m a plumber and I know there is 3 different copper tube side wall dimensions, M, L and K type copper.  Each one is a little thicker so you would have to mic it to be sure.  I wouldn’t try copper since it’s easy to deform, especially if you try to tap or press it in the bearing, I would stick with a 7 dollar set of actual brass bearing sleeves.  Also someone posted the drive train belt for me at 5/8 x 69”, perfect match, dead nuts.  Thank you to whoever posted that info.   One thing I would suggest that I wished I did was take before pics so I put the pulley and the sprocket on the correct direction.  These is no room for error when you put it all back together.  Don’t tighten your set screws until the end, when everything is lined up.  Wish I had more to tell you, but I’m flat heading into it myself, and I don’t know.