Real tail lights

[Retired Sparky 526]

I've got a thirty year old 310.  Is there any chance of finding real working tail lights for the old girl, not the red reflectors that are mounted there now?

[WVHillbilly520H 10,376]

The ones on the 520 are real working marker lights...same fender pan...don't see why these couldn't be bolted on and wired up.

[KC9KAS 4,743]

Yep, the "real" lights are the same footprint/size as the reflectors.

I have been using LED's...less amp draw and much brighter, and they are COOL!

Cool as in not hot, AND cool as in "bling"!

[squonk 42,522]

All the lights I find don't line up with the existing mounting holes. The DOT in their brilliance decided to make the specs for reflectors 1 size and lights another size. You have to drill an extra hole and the light won't quite cover up the unused hole.

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

Try taking a look here: https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/marker-clearance/

 

 

[doc724 925]

I bought the oval side marker LED lights (P/N M9-x4) suggested as per the above post.  $4.95 ea  plus shipping.  They are great!.  They are a perfect drop in for older bulb style WH lights.  Yo do have to drill one hole to get the pigtail out as it does not align with the original WH lights.  Some have noted in the past that the lights do not cover completely the holes in the fender...but neither do the original WH lights.  Just remember, LED's are polarity sensitive when you hook them up.  If you get the polarity wrong they will not work, but they do not get damaged either.  I did hear that if your 12V is not regulated well, you may get some flickering, but for $5 it is worth the risk

I bought the oval side marker LED lights (P/N M9-x4) suggested as per the above post.  $4.95 ea  plus shipping.  They are great!.  They are a perfect drop in for older bulb style WH lights.  Yo do have to drill one hole to get the pigtail out as it does not align with the original WH lights.  Some have noted in the past that the lights do not cover completely the holes in the fender...but neither do the original WH lights.  Just remember, LED's are polarity sensitive when you hook them up.  If you get the polarity wrong they will not work, but they do not get damaged either.  I did hear that if your 12V is not regulated well, you may get some flickering, but for $5 it is worth the risk

[pfrederi 18,328]

What kind of charging system do you have.  On many 310 WH went cheap and used a 3 amp unregulated system.  Do your headlights work when the engine isn't running?  If not that is what you have and the head lights are running on AC (may cause problems with some LEDS)  directly from the stator.  Never checked the voltage on mine but it does vary with engine speed.

 

the 3 amp system should support LEDs if you run them off teh battery, I would defer to a smarter electrician but I wouldn't wire them with the headlights.

Edited January 29, 2016 by pfrederi

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

I would wire them directly to the battery with a switch. The M9-x4 listed above has a 40mA current draw per unit which is hardly anything. I replaced my Raider's headlights with LED headlights and wired them to the battery with a switch. I like the ability to use them when the tractor is not necessarily powered on. Just need to remember to shut them off.

[Terry M-(Moderator) 2,204]

1 hour ago, mmmmmdonuts said:

I would wire them directly to the battery with a switch. The M9-x4 listed above has a 40mA current draw per unit which is hardly anything. I replaced my Raider's headlights with LED headlights and wired them to the battery with a switch. I like the ability to use them when the tractor is not necessarily powered on. Just need to remember to shut them off.

Good Idea to add a inline fuse to the circuit also..

[Retired Sparky 526]

15 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

The ones on the 520 are real working marker lights...same fender pan...don't see why these couldn't be bolted on and wired up.

I like it, thanks.

3 hours ago, Terry M said:

Good Idea to add a inline fuse to the circuit also..

That's a good idea. 

[Retired Sparky 526]

8 hours ago, pfrederi said:

What kind of charging system do you have.  On many 310 WH went cheap and used a 3 amp unregulated system.  Do your headlights work when the engine isn't running?  If not that is what you have and the head lights are running on AC (may cause problems with some LEDS)  directly from the stator.  Never checked the voltage on mine but it does vary with engine speed.

 

the 3 amp system should support LEDs if you run them off teh battery, I would defer to a smarter electrician but I wouldn't wire them with the headlights.

I don't think I've got the cheap sys. I've got a 5 & 10 amp. fuse on the fire wall.  The head lights only work when the engine is running. I only want to show some visibility  when I'm clearing the driveway. 

12 hours ago, KC9KAS said:

Yep, the "real" lights are the same footprint/size as the reflectors.

I have been using LED's...less amp draw and much brighter, and they are COOL!

Cool as in not hot, AND cool as in "bling"!

I like the double meaning.  As I said, the old girl is almost 30 yr. no need to over work the Elect. Sys.  I'm just trying to keep from getting clipped  when I'm snowblowing the end of the driveway.  They really haul ASH by my house.

[Retired Sparky 526]

9 hours ago, doc724 said:

I bought the oval side marker LED lights (P/N M9-x4) suggested as per the above post.  $4.95 ea  plus shipping.  They are great!.  They are a perfect drop in for older bulb style WH lights.  Yo do have to drill one hole to get the pigtail out as it does not align with the original WH lights.  Some have noted in the past that the lights do not cover completely the holes in the fender...but neither do the original WH lights.  Just remember, LED's are polarity sensitive when you hook them up.  If you get the polarity wrong they will not work, but they do not get damaged either.  I did hear that if your 12V is not regulated well, you may get some flickering, but for $5 it is worth the risk

I bought the oval side marker LED lights (P/N M9-x4) suggested as per the above post.  $4.95 ea  plus shipping.  They are great!.  They are a perfect drop in for older bulb style WH lights.  Yo do have to drill one hole to get the pigtail out as it does not align with the original WH lights.  Some have noted in the past that the lights do not cover completely the holes in the fender...but neither do the original WH lights.  Just remember, LED's are polarity sensitive when you hook them up.  If you get the polarity wrong they will not work, but they do not get damaged either.  I did hear that if your 12V is not regulated well, you may get some flickering, but for $5 it is worth the risk

Thanks, looks like I'm making a trip to the RV/ Off road truck store.

[KC9KAS 4,743]

Check this out...

[Retired Sparky 526]

3 hours ago, KC9KAS said:

Check this out...

Man that's sharp.  Where did you pick those lights. Was it costly?

[DennisThornton 4,771]

13 hours ago, doc724 said:

I bought the oval side marker LED lights (P/N M9-x4) suggested as per the above post.  $4.95 ea  plus shipping.  They are great!.  They are a perfect drop in for older bulb style WH lights.  Yo do have to drill one hole to get the pigtail out as it does not align with the original WH lights.  Some have noted in the past that the lights do not cover completely the holes in the fender...but neither do the original WH lights.  Just remember, LED's are polarity sensitive when you hook them up.  If you get the polarity wrong they will not work, but they do not get damaged either.  I did hear that if your 12V is not regulated well, you may get some flickering, but for $5 it is worth the risk

I bought the oval side marker LED lights (P/N M9-x4) suggested as per the above post.  $4.95 ea  plus shipping.  They are great!.  They are a perfect drop in for older bulb style WH lights.  Yo do have to drill one hole to get the pigtail out as it does not align with the original WH lights.  Some have noted in the past that the lights do not cover completely the holes in the fender...but neither do the original WH lights.  Just remember, LED's are polarity sensitive when you hook them up.  If you get the polarity wrong they will not work, but they do not get damaged either.  I did hear that if your 12V is not regulated well, you may get some flickering, but for $5 it is worth the risk

I just ordered a couple.

Thanks!

[KC9KAS 4,743]

10 hours ago, Retired Sparky said:

Man that's sharp.  Where did you pick those lights. Was it costly?

Just regular LED lights. The electronic flasher with 2 modes is what was costly....$25!

[pfrederi 18,328]

15 hours ago, Retired Sparky said:

I don't think I've got the cheap sys. I've got a 5 & 10 amp. fuse on the fire wall.  The head lights only work when the engine is running. I only want to show some visibility  when I'm clearing the driveway. 

I like the double meaning.  As I said, the old girl is almost 30 yr. no need to over work the Elect. Sys.  I'm just trying to keep from getting clipped  when I'm snowblowing the end of the driveway.  They really haul ASH by my house.

 

 

I think the unregulated is what you have.  The 5 amp fuse protects the 3 amp DC charging system, the 15 amp protects the starting circuit (solenoid).  interestingly there are no fuses on the head lights

[Retired Sparky 526]

9 hours ago, KC9KAS said:

Just regular LED lights. The electronic flasher with 2 modes is what was costly....$25!

COOL.  I can't wait to go shopping.

8 hours ago, pfrederi said:

 

 

I think the unregulated is what you have.  The 5 amp fuse protects the 3 amp DC charging system, the 15 amp protects the starting circuit (solenoid).  interestingly there are no fuses on the head lights

Excellent.  Thanks for your help.

[Pullstart 64,523]

Not knowing how much of the hole is showing, could one use the classic builder's trick and put some black silicone around the ring of the light?

[Retired Sparky 526]

4 hours ago, pullstart said:

Not knowing how much of the hole is showing, could one use the classic builder's trick and put some black silicone around the ring of the light?

Good idea.  Or maybe an over sized mounting gasket.