tsmall07 49 #1 Posted January 25, 2016 I'm looking for hydraulic lift info mostly. The blade on my 520h only lifts like an inch. The mower deck doesn't get much lift, either. I'm wondering if my lift chain is too long. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,102 #2 Posted January 25, 2016 Using the correct hole? You'll find lots of good snow plow info in this thread... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 37,492 #3 Posted January 25, 2016 Like Craig said, make sure the trunnion is in the correct hole (the bottom or forward hole) for snow blade use. Then if there is slack in the chain when the blade is down, shorten it . It should lift 8". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tsmall07 49 #4 Posted January 25, 2016 Thanks! Is there an easy way to get to the trunnion or just reaching up from the bottom? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 37,492 #5 Posted January 25, 2016 Nope ya gotta crawl under. Make sure the blade is down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,102 #6 Posted January 25, 2016 Not if you get yourself one of these. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dcrage 623 #7 Posted January 25, 2016 5 minutes ago, tsmall07 said: Thanks! Is there an easy way to get to the trunnion or just reaching up from the bottom? Well yes I think there is an easier way, depending on your model of tractor -- On the 300, 400, 500 models you can get to the trunnion by removing the face plate on the dash (four big screws and then unplug you instrument leads) -- The only downsides are you will need to remember what plugs into what AND remember to disconnect your battery ground cable before going in there (you can blow fuses really quickly if you don't) -- I found this a whole lot easier than making all of the twists and turns coming up from the ground 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,706 #8 Posted January 25, 2016 (edited) Actually, the 500 series cover plates come off with little to no wiring attached (early models have parking brake and motion safety switches on the bottom of the lower cover). Other than that, pull 8 little screws and remove both plates and the entire lift mechanism is very much exposed. You can then easily figure out what to do. Just do not tighten the lift chain so much the lift bar hits the steering gear and bends something (been there adjusting it to try and lift the 60" deck higher). This pic shows a bit more room with the rear fender off but you get the idea. Cleat Edited January 25, 2016 by cleat 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #9 Posted January 25, 2016 2 hours ago, AMC RULES said: Not if you get yourself one of these. That isn't the harbor freight lift, did you build that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,102 #10 Posted January 25, 2016 (edited) No, not home made... it's a 1000# Handy lift. http://www.handyindustries.com/products/standard-1000-air-lift Edited January 25, 2016 by AMC RULES 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #11 Posted January 26, 2016 (edited) 6 hours ago, AMC RULES said: No, not home made... it's a 1000# Handy lift. http://www.handyindustries.com/products/standard-1000-air-lift Pricy, but very nice. Too bad they don't sell parts. I would like one of those lift cylinders Edited January 26, 2016 by WNYPCRepair Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,102 #12 Posted January 26, 2016 Craigslist is a wonderful thing. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tsmall07 49 #13 Posted January 26, 2016 On 1/25/2016 at 2:49 PM, dcrage said: Well yes I think there is an easier way, depending on your model of tractor -- On the 300, 400, 500 models you can get to the trunnion by removing the face plate on the dash (four big screws and then unplug you instrument leads) -- The only downsides are you will need to remember what plugs into what AND remember to disconnect your battery ground cable before going in there (you can blow fuses really quickly if you don't) -- I found this a whole lot easier than making all of the twists and turns coming up from the ground I don't know how you would ever do this from the bottom. The only way I could figure to get it moved to another hole is to remove the eye bolt completely. That turned out to be a big pain in the butt. Not sure it's worth it since it still only lifts like 3". I don't know how Ed is getting it to lift 8"... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 37,492 #14 Posted January 26, 2016 On 1/25/2016 at 6:27 AM, AMC RULES said: Using the correct hole? You'll find lots of good snow plow info in this thread... Are you sure you have the trunnion 20 in the front hole of the right lever 19. Then with the blade down and the lift lever forward, attach the chain directly to the plow frame with a bolt. You do not use the deck lift lever 27 at all. I usually take it off if it is a dedicated plow tractor or tie it up out of the way if it is a plow/ deck tractor. I can get you a picture tomorrow of me removing the trunnion from under the tractor. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tsmall07 49 #15 Posted January 27, 2016 57 minutes ago, ekennell said: Are you sure you have the trunnion 20 in the front hole of the right lever 19. Then with the blade down and the lift lever forward, attach the chain directly to the plow frame with a bolt. You do not use the deck lift lever 27 at all. I usually take it off if it is a dedicated plow tractor or tie it up out of the way if it is a plow/ deck tractor. I can get you a picture tomorrow of me removing the trunnion from under the tractor. My plow installation manual shows attaching the plow frame to the deck lever (27) using the "short lift link and then the chain is attached to the deck lift lever. That's how I have it installed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 37,492 #16 Posted January 27, 2016 OK, I don't use the deck lever 27 like the manual shows, but either way should work. If we assume the linkage is correct, then I suspect the lift shaft is not turning enough due to a sheared key or a hyd cylinder that is not extending full stroke. The shaft should rotate about 70 degrees raising the front hole about 3". This should translate to about 8" lift at the plow blade. Can you verify the cylinder piston rod is extending full stroke. And that the rock shaft 19 is rotating through the full piston stroke for about 70 degrees ? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,516 #17 Posted January 27, 2016 A snow/dozer blade will only lift as high as the front axle and blade frame will allow. Not too high. Haven't done so in a long time but, put wood blocks under the plow blade and see how high (ground clearance) you can get. Not too much. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 37,492 #18 Posted January 27, 2016 OK, ts. here are a couple pics of my 312 Hydro plow tractor. You can see I don't use the deck lift item 27, and I have the solid link so I can apply down pressure. The plow lifts 6-7" before it hits the frame and it will go 1" below level with down pressure. You should get a little more height before hitting the axle on a 520 with the bigger front tires. I can reach and remove the top of the link although I agree it would be more difficult with the 27 lever in the way. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #19 Posted January 27, 2016 That is how mine is connected, though my solid link is a piece of flat stock 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tsmall07 49 #20 Posted January 27, 2016 Looks like I need to build a solid link... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,516 #21 Posted January 28, 2016 (edited) On 1/27/2016 at 6:25 PM, tsmall07 said: Looks like I need to build a solid link... I've made a few solid links. 5" x 1-1/2" x 1/4" steel flat bar. Two 3/8" clearance holes 4" OC (on center). Pick up (2) 3/8" clevis pins, hair pin cotter pins, flat washers. Stock at Home "Cheapo" and Lowes. Done. The short link, I've made in various lengths; i.e.: image attached. Edited February 4, 2016 by Tankman 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tsmall07 49 #22 Posted January 28, 2016 10 minutes ago, Tankman said: I've made a few solid links. 5" x 1-1/2" x 1/4" steel flat bar. Two 3/8" clearance holes 4" OC (on center). Pick up (2) 3/8" clevis pins, hair pin cotter pins, flat washers. Stock at Home "Cheapo" and Lowes. Done. I just got a new chain and eye bolt from home cheapo when mine broke when I was trying to change holes with it. I get this sense of rage that comes over me when I go there, but sometimes it's necessary. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,102 #23 Posted January 28, 2016 Road rage in Home Depot... what's that all about? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tsmall07 49 #24 Posted January 28, 2016 Just now, AMC RULES said: Road rage in Home Depot... what's that all about? LOL. Last time I was there, I had to show the guy how to use the bolt cutters so I could get my chain. I was in the store for 30 minutes for 4 links of chain and an eye bolt. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,102 #25 Posted January 28, 2016 I could see where someone trying to match wits with their experts... could definitely leave them a little heated under the collar. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
