SINGLE STAGE,,REPLACEMENT BEARINGS...THE BEST

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497]

Ok, so after the big snow battle today. And, btw, I have to battle again later cause its still coming down. I start getting a high pitch whine from, probably, the auger bearing on the chain drive side. Ok, my fault, I should have changed out all this stuff before the season, right? But who fixes what ain't broke. Not me. I just hope this thing don't crap out and let me finish this cleanup. 

Anyway, who has figured out what THE BEST replacement bearings are to use? Anything with zerks? Or what's my choices. This will be a total overhaul end of season. The snow thrower has never had anything changed by me other than a new chain. Let's hear it guys,,,who knows what we got to use?  Thanks group. 

 

Glenn,,,,from the blizzardy state of NJ

[squonk 41,018]

Glenn, I would take the chain off and spin everything first. It could be a cross shaft bearing or one of the sprockets The sprockets I would get from Toro. TSC has them but the no. of teeth are different and they are from China. I don't have the bearing numbers in front of me but all the bearing companies use the same numbers for sizing. Once you get the size just shop for Timken or SKF brand

[SPINJIM 1,981]

I just restored a Snow Thrower 6-9112.  I cleaned and lubed the sprocket bearings, oiled the drive shaft bearings, and replaced the chain, but could not figure out how to access the auger bearings.  They seem to be buried inside the auger with no way to remove them.   They do sound a little rough, so I hope they at least get me through these 28 inches of snow.   But how do I get to those bearings if they do give up the fight?

Thanks, Jim

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497]

1 hour ago, SPINJIM said:

I just restored a Snow Thrower 6-9112.  I cleaned and lubed the sprocket bearings, oiled the drive shaft bearings, and replaced the chain, but could not figure out how to access the auger bearings.  They seem to be buried inside the auger with no way to remove them.   They do sound a little rough, so I hope they at least get me through these 28 inches of snow.   But how do I get to those bearings if they do give up the fight?

Thanks, Jim

Jim. is that a single or 2 stage? I am not up on the numbers. 

FWIW....I just got back in from phase 2 of the snow fight. 5 inches..wet..heavy. that bearing is SCREAMIN now. but it still has some fight left.

lets see what the pros say. the wheel horse snow thrower is an amazing machine. it really is. heres mine.

 

 

Glenn

Edited January 23, 2016 by JERSEYHAWG / Glenn

[SPINJIM 1,981]

1 minute ago, JERSEYHAWG / Glenn said:

Jim. is that a single or 2 stage? I am not up on the numbers. 

FWIW....I just got back in from phase 2 of the snow fight. 5 inches..wet..heavy. that bearing is SCREAMIN now. but it still has some fight left.

lets see what the pros say. the wheel horse snow thrower is an amazing machine. it really is.

 

Glenn

 

It's a single stage blower from around 1970.   I looked at the exploded view in the manual, and it looks like there should be pin in the auger tube that would go through the shaft and maybe also part of the bearing assembly.  The 'shaft' that goes thru the bearing is the one that is welded onto the height adjustment lever. But I don't see anything on the auger tube that would release that shaft.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,031]

17 minutes ago, SPINJIM said:

 

It's a single stage blower from around 1970.   I looked at the exploded view in the manual, and it looks like there should be pin in the auger tube that would go through the shaft and maybe also part of the bearing assembly.  The 'shaft' that goes thru the bearing is the one that is welded onto the height adjustment lever. But I don't see anything on the auger tube that would release that shaft.

This may be the model you have

 

The 6-9112 is the completeing kit to mount the above snowthrower on a long frame tractor.

 

The left side wheel and arm is secured to the shaft that runs through the auger by one roll pin drove inside a second roll pin. Once they are out the shaft should go out the right side.

 

Garry

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497]

hey there mr Garry. you have anything for my model so i can take a look see?

 

thanks. Glenn

Edited January 24, 2016 by JERSEYHAWG / Glenn

[WNYPCRepair 1,914]

4 minutes ago, JERSEYHAWG / Glenn said:

hey there mr Garry. you have anything for my model do i can take a look see?

 

thanks. Glenn

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 23, 2016 by WNYPCRepair

[N3PUY 1,031]

I replaced mine this fall.  Could have gotten them locally for $15 each.   I got them instead from USA Bearings and Belts out of Florida.  $9 for two including shipping.  Remember to get "SEALED" bearings.  The PO had shielded bearings in it and they was nothing but rust.  

 

These are the ones I got.

"R12 RS R12 2RS Premium Bearings,3/4 x 1-5/8 x 7/16, C/3 EMQ Bearings USBB (I-P)"

 

 

Edited January 23, 2016 by N3PUY

[SPINJIM 1,981]

16 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

This may be the model you have

 

The 6-9112 is the completeing kit to mount the above snowthrower on a long frame tractor.

 

The left side wheel and arm is secured to the shaft that runs through the auger by one roll pin drove inside a second roll pin. Once they are out the shaft should go out the right side.

 

Garry

 

Sorry, I had a brain freeze.  The Snow Thrower is 6-6212 as you figured.   I'll look again for the roll pin.  Couldn't find it first two times, but maybe it's painted over flush with the auger tube, or maybe it's farther toward the center of the auger than I thought.   Thanks for the great help.

  Jim

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,031]

1 hour ago, SPINJIM said:

 

Sorry, I had a brain freeze.  The Snow Thrower is 6-6212 as you figured.   I'll look again for the roll pin.  Couldn't find it first two times, but maybe it's painted over flush with the auger tube, or maybe it's farther toward the center of the auger than I thought.   Thanks for the great help.

  Jim

 

The roll pins are in the arm that holds the wheel on the left side - right at the very end outside the snowthrower.

 

Garry

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

3 hours ago, JERSEYHAWG / Glenn said:

 

Hi Glenn,

 

Which bearing is complaining?

 

From my notes, the bearings are as follows

 

Auger Shaft - 1630-2RS

Jack Shaft - SA205-14

 

Both are common bearings and not too difficult to change out.  I usually get my bearings from USA Bearings and Belts.

 

Kurt

Edited January 24, 2016 by Kurt-NEPA

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497]

3 minutes ago, Kurt-NEPA said:

Hi Glenn,

 

Which bearing is complaining?

 

From my notes, the bearings are as follows

 

Auger Shaft - 1630-2RS

Jack Shaft - SA205-14

 

Both are common bearings and not too difficult to change out.  I usually get my bearings from USA Bearings and Belts.

 

Kurt

Hey Kurt, I can't tell which one.

I figure to just replace them all. I will post when I find out the culprit for sure. Thanks

 

Glenn

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

54 minutes ago, JERSEYHAWG / Glenn said:

Hey Kurt, I can't tell which one.

I figure to just replace them all. I will post when I find out the culprit for sure. Thanks

 

Glenn

 

That's what I would do Glenn. Cheap insurance.

 

The jack shaft bearings are cam lock bearings, do you know how to work with them?

 

Kurt

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497]

20 minutes ago, Kurt-NEPA said:

 

That's what I would do Glenn. Cheap insurance.

 

The jack shaft bearings are cam lock bearings, do you know how to work with them?

 

Kurt

No sir, I sure dont.

 

Glenn

[WNYPCRepair 1,914]

8 minutes ago, JERSEYHAWG / Glenn said:

No sir, I sure dont.

 

Glenn

 

 

This thread should help
 

Tip: Figure out which way the shaft turns before you take it apart.

 

Edited January 24, 2016 by WNYPCRepair

[squonk 41,018]

Be careful with the cheap bearings. Just because it says USA bearings doesn't necessarily mean "Made in US. Find out what brand they are. Timken and SKF don't make many $9.00 bearings.

[doc724 925]

If you want to know which bearing is complaining, after you have finished blowing and the machine is shut off, remove your gloves and touch all the bearings.  They might be warm, but the bad bearing may be really hot.  Check all of them to get a feeling as to what is normal.

 

Getting the auger bearings out is easy.  Remove the three nuts on each stub shaft and remove the stub shaft.  Leave the auger in place.  Take a 1/2' diameter, 4ft long pipe or wood dowel and put it thru the bearing on one end until it hits the bearing on the far end and whack it.  Bearing and two spacer washers should pop right out.  Repeat on the the end.  Save the spacer washers (new bearings from Toro come with the two washers, aftermarket bearings do not).  New bearing will slide right in with a very light tap.  Put both spacer washers on the stub shaft and tighten the nuts.  Make sure you use both spacer washers on each end of the auger will float side to side.

[can whlvr 993]

I agree to use good bearings,things are CHEAP for a reason,if you are gonna go through the whole process of rebuilding an entire thrower,it doesn't cost a lot more if you break it up into how many years you will use it trouble free,i made this mistake with the auger bearings of my first rebuild,i got a couple of years and then had to pull the auger after the 3rd year,i saved nothing and it cost me another shaft,i find that its almost easier to cut the auger out then beat the shaft all the way through,i buy 3/4 round stock buy the 10 foot piece,just to have around.

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497]

7 hours ago, doc724 said:

If you want to know which bearing is complaining, after you have finished blowing and the machine is shut off, remove your gloves and touch all the bearings.  They might be warm, but the bad bearing may be really hot.  Check all of them to get a feeling as to what is normal.

 

Getting the auger bearings out is easy.  Remove the three nuts on each stub shaft and remove the stub shaft.  Leave the auger in place.  Take a 1/2' diameter, 4ft long pipe or wood dowel and put it thru the bearing on one end until it hits the bearing on the far end and whack it.  Bearing and two spacer washers should pop right out.  Repeat on the the end.  Save the spacer washers (new bearings from Toro come with the two washers, aftermarket bearings do not).  New bearing will slide right in with a very light tap.  Put both spacer washers on the stub shaft and tighten the nuts.  Make sure you use both spacer washers on each end of the auger will float side to side.

Ok, that didn't work. A great idea, but everything was just warm. Brother it's a howling to. But got my last links clean up in. Big sun here today so my driveway is 90 percent blacktop again. Will post a few wrap up picks, but near the end I drove into about a 2 foot deep parking spot on the side I never cleaned up. Darn, that ol single stage went in there and ate it alive. Had me laughing, low gear super slow. Does the job. I did it that way figuring to really heat that bugger up. 

 

Glenn

Edited January 24, 2016 by JERSEYHAWG / Glenn

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

Glenn,  Take a long screwdriver and hold one end to your ear and put the other end on bearing with the blower running.  You should be able to hear which bearing is howling.

 

Kurt

[squonk 41,018]

I'm betting it's a cross shaft bearing. Take the chain off and you'll find it.

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497]

6 hours ago, squonk said:

I'm betting it's a cross shaft bearing. Take the chain off and you'll find it.

Ok, my brother came over with his heat gun. After running the snowthrower, the auger bearings were 35 / 40 degrees + -. The bearing on the shaft with the chain attached to it was 90 degrees + -.  The pulley bearing with the drive belt on it was 107 degrees + -.  So there are the 2 culprits giving me the trouble. I never thought of the heat gun, cause I don't have one.

 

Also, my cutting edge is getting worn, don't want it getting into the auger housing. Can that be flipped? If it cant, where can I get one? Thanks for the replies also. Now I need to get 2 GOOD bearings and get them replaced. After all winter is only one third gone.

 

Glenn

[squonk 41,018]

Before you get those bearings I would still pull that chain and inspect the sprocket bearings closely. I have the same blower which when I got it looked hardly used. But those sprockets were shot along with the cross shaft bearings. The chain has to come off anyway to do the cross shaft so might as well get what you need in one shot.

[cod 120]

8 hours ago, JERSEYHAWG / Glenn said:

Also, my cutting edge is getting worn, don't want it getting into the auger housing. Can that be flipped? If it cant, where can I get one? Thanks for the replies also. Now I need to get 2 GOOD bearings and get them replaced. After all winter is only one third gone.

 

Glenn

 

Just a suggestion when you replace your bearings. While the auger is out check the paint inside the housing and if it's okay, wax the blazes out of the whole inside including the tube.  I have a 6-9112 model and I redid the paint and waxed the inside with some ski wax ( a left over from my misspent youth ) and it made a huge difference in any type of snow.

 

Good luck - Cod