SO, YOU WANT TO SAVE THAT WH 3 PIECE TRANNY

[Lane Ranger 11,113]

Ok  since I received the RJ  (and suburban) transmissions from Stevasaurus in Mentone last weekend I have been doing a little work on the RJ I bought to restore in January of this year.   Steve did a tremendous job getting the RJ transmission bolt ready.   I added the  gear oil in the transmission and checked the level on the side plug after placing on the frame.    The new front Carlisle sawtooth tires were on it and the back tires are an old set of the Wheel Horse sawtooth type.   I added the back after bolting up the transmission with three bolts on each side of the case/frame.

 

 

The old K 90 motor I have for this has Massey Ferguson red paint  (something I did a long time ago)  and needed repainting with Rustoleum Regal Red to match everything else on the tractor.    I also painted the block a  VHT Black Paint from Auto Zone.   I had a new Tecumseh recoil and cup that I chose to use on the K 90 that I also installed.   I did start work on the steering wheel, steering block  and  I did add all new grease fittings to the frame.

 

 

 

The Kohler motor was bolted on and then the fender pan and seat spring and seat pan.    Some degree of progress.    I am awaiting the hood and  gas tank which are at my welder's shop getting new gas tank straps, a reinforced hood and a new old stock gas tank.   

 

I think the RJ rebuild is starting to look pretty good -especially when you compare to what I started with in January!

 

 

I just added a few more pics from the original RJ Wheel Horse tractor we started with in January !

 

 

Edited May 7, 2016 by Lane Ranger

[stevasaurus 23,041]

That is looking fantastic Lane.  I really like the look of the tires.  I did not know you could still get those. 

[Racinbob 11,683]

Looking great Lane

[stevasaurus 23,041]

I really, really, really like that 8th picture Lane.  (that is 3 reallys)  That is a calendar shot or maybe my new desk-top,...the only thing missing is the little plastic doo-hicky on the end of the lift lever.  

[dclarke 4,055]

Looking Good, Lane!.... Wish mine was that far along. 

[Lane Ranger 11,113]

Denny if my tractor gets to looking half as good as yours  will  I will consider my rebuild a great success !    I put the 701 drag link you gave me on the tractor  the other day !  Thanks again!

 

Edited May 7, 2016 by Lane Ranger

[dclarke 4,055]

You bringing this one to the show in June, Lane?  I hope so. 

[Shynon 7,475]

  On 5/7/2016 at 8:57 PM, stevasaurus said:

doo-hicky

sure it wasn't a Hoobie Doobie

 

Looking good Lane

Edited May 8, 2016 by Shynon

[Lane Ranger 11,113]

I do not know yet  Denny.  I have  a hood and gas tank job at the welder.   Hood will need painted and  more body work as it is kind of rough.   A few other odds and ends though and it may be ready by end of  June!  We will see.

 

Those doo hickey  /  Hoobie Doobies don't stick too well on the RJ lift end .    I did have a new one on it and it popped off !     I put back in my "goodies box"  until I could get the old hair dryer out to  do a little heat molding work!     That Steve must have better than 20/20 vision is all I can say about it!    Picture # 8  doo hickey !

 

[Racinbob 11,683]

  On 5/8/2016 at 12:28 AM, Shynon said:

sure it wasn't a Hoobie Doobie

 

Looking good Lane

Aw come on now. Everybody knows that hoobie doobies are the threaded holes in the center casting of three piece transmissions that the side plate bolts to. 

[Lane Ranger 11,113]

Punched out the brake band side of the RJ idler today.   One shot of PB Blaster and she came out very nice with a punch.    I have cut up several 8 inch pieces for my welder and I made a couple RJ and Suburban brake side and idler pulley side pieces to be drilled on the welders  drill press and/or Bridgeport machine.    I only need one idler but I thought since I have an RJ and Suburban idler arm to work from off the transmissions it would be a good idea to do some more and get the right measurements etc.  recorded for future use.

[Lane Ranger 11,113]

 

Ok Red Square , the RJ rebuild is now is operation again.   I have been awaiting my RJ hood with new gas straps welded on .    My welder had a job do do away from our county and could not get to my hood until recently. 

 

I have a new gas tank for the Rj(that has the neck further back on the tank) so my new gas tank straps had to be adjusted to fit the tank.

 

The hood had lots of issues with old holes be welded  up with brass brazing, bondo, glazing compound and lots of sanding.    I have finished painting and sanding two coats of Regal Red.   Not letting dry a couple days before I install the gas tank and place the hood on the frame.

 

 

Today I installed the rear hitch and hitch pin on the RJ  (thanks to Jake Kuhn for the hitch),  the lift cable (a new one from Lowell S./wheelhorse1000), the chrome Harley Davidson Softail heat shield I plan on using ( I added some aluminum diamond plate in a few places as the fender pan/tool box had some serious holes in it).  I also started working on the steering block set up and painted the steering wheel  column.

 

Stevasaurus and Racinbob have been tremendous to work with on getting me this far!   I still have a transmission project to complete after this redo!

 

 

 

Here are a few pictures for an update.   

 

 

 

 

I did get a little more work done on the gas tank hole on the hood before painting it!

 

 

New Old Stock gas tank ready to paint!

 

 

The Harley Davidson Softail Heat Shield fits nicely on the exhaust pipe of the RJ and has two holes from broom clamps in the right spots.

 

 

 

The steering block with a new steering pin.

 

 

New E rings are installed on the pin holding the rear slot hitch in place.

 

Edited August 9, 2016 by Lane Ranger

[stevasaurus 23,041]

That is looking really sharp Lane.    I was starting to wonder when you were going to get back to it. 

 

You probably know this, but I noticed in one of your pictures that the clip for the brake linkage spring is still horizontal.  I did that so it would travel nice without digging in.  Gently loosen the bolt on the left side and move that clip to vertical and snug back up the bolt. 

[Lane Ranger 11,113]

Thanks Steve.   Yes is need to  get the brake and spring attached.    I still need to have the idler arm  rod welded first.   I went to my welder with it the other day and he was working out of town.     I am going to order the RJ decals from Terry and  bolt down the hood next week.   I want it to dry real well before I do any more on it.   I saw the spring clip  abd I have the brake shoe rod painted also!

 

 

Edited August 10, 2016 by Lane Ranger

[Lane Ranger 11,113]

I picked up the idler arm  for the RJ today and started working on lining up the brake side piece for the 1/8 inch roll pin hole!

 

 

The brake shoe rod is painted and drying tonight and I will place it on in the am to get the idler pulley all lined up.

I have to mark, punch and or drill a 1/8 inch hole for the roll pin on the brake side of the idler piece.

 

 

 

 

Edited September 13, 2016 by Lane Ranger

[Lane Ranger 11,113]

Ok  the idler arm, pulley and brake are all installed on the 1958 RJ!

 

The machine shop drilled the 1/8th inch hole for the roll pin on the part that holds the brake rod and clutch rod on the RJ.   Worked fine and pin went in smoothly!

 

I changed the recoil the other day and put the Schnacke Recoil on this motor as I have been wanting to have one of my RJ's with that on it.  Works fine.

 

I am still having an issue with the 4 HP Kohler motor but I think that will work out.

 

 

 

 

[stevasaurus 23,041]

That tension mechanism came out real nice Lane.  Looks great. 

[Lane Ranger 11,113]

I really had to think about the angles on that piece Steve.   I had the part ( #3552 Idler Arm) with the rod on the pulley side made without putting a  1/8 th inch hole for the roll pin.

You have to take both wheels off, the  drive side pulley on the transmission in order to line up the brake band side part  (#3536 Clutch Arm with the two holes for brake rod and clutch rod) in order to line up the Part #3536 with the two holes for the Clutch Rod and Brake Rod at the lower end.

 

There was just enough room for me to put both rods on and get a small cotter key to scratch the location of the holes on wither side of the 1/2 rod running thru the transmission plates to locate teh place to drill the 1/8 th hole for the roll pin.

 

I then took the pieces apart and took the #3552 Idler Arm to the machine shop to drill the hole.

 

Roll pin went in easy and is tight.   I always thought you had to have a slightly smaller hole for the roll pin  but Jason at the machine shop said no 1/8th drill bit and hole for a 1/8th roll pin works fine -which it did!

 

All and all it turned out pretty good.

 

 

Thank you again for all the help with the transmission (S) !

 

I thought we would see you at Mentone Saturday.    Are you goign to Scott's on October 1st???

 

David and I will be there.

 

 

[Lane Ranger 11,113]

 

Ok   finally I have a 1958 RJ  that is doing what I wanted it to do!   I can not thank  Steve (Stevasaurus),   Bob (Racinbob)  , Jake and Doug Kuhn,  and many others for the assistance, insights and suggestions as we entered into redoing these transmssions and this 1958 RJ  I bought from Autin McCoid in Underwood, Iowa this January.   Thanks to Paul (oldredrider)  for the 4 HP Kohler that I put on this just a couple of weeks ago.   I changed my Kohler as the motor I wanted to use was just not getting the amount of spark it needed -although it is a good motor I intend to use.

 

I have one more RJ  transmssion to rebuild,  one that Steve rebuilt that is in this RJ I  reworked and we asssited two other RJ rebuilds with parts,  Racinbob is going to do a demo three piece RJ/Suburban transmssion for shows and demonstrations with some parts we traded for a good outer RJ/Suburban case.

 

I was able to figure out my RJ brake band was the problem with me properly clutching the transmssion to change geara and also allow me to fit the proper drive belt guard on the RJ  (after I made an alternative belt guard that worked but just wasn't wheel horse ) !    So I have the After shots  first and the Before shots afterwards  for your viewing.

 

It may never reach a 10 rating out of 10 points but a good 7 or 8 and another saved RJ is an accomlishment to be proud of and she runs great. 

 

 

 

 

[stevasaurus 23,041]

I think it looks absolutely beautiful Lane.    I just re-read this whole thread...HOLY COW!!!   Priceless information in here...and what a pleasure to be a part of it.   

[Lane Ranger 11,113]

You did some real good stuff with this Steve !

 

Hard to believe where we started!

 

 

Edited November 4, 2016 by Lane Ranger

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,498]

I had to read the whole story again, it was informative, priceless. And with a great end result. Kudos men.

 

Glenn

[oliver2-44 10,274]

@stevasaurus (and everyone else)  I'm in the process of reassembling my 3 piece transmission and need some sequence or tricks to install the shift rails and especially the 2 steel balls and spring.  Also my reverser gear has some rounded teeth on one side.   Which side would it be best to position the good square teeth edge?

   The pictures below are Steve's and are where I'm am at on my work. I know I need to start a thread on it, but though it would be good to capture this info here.

 

 

 

Edited February 24, 2017 by oliver2-44

[stevasaurus 23,041]

Jim, you are correct.  I went back through this thread, and I did not really explain this process.  Here we go. 

   1st question is about your reverse idler.  Install the reverse idler with the chamfered end of the gear facing the left side of the transmission.  The straight edge and square teeth will face to the right side.

   Process for doing the shift rails, forks, detente balls, spring and stop, and roll pins.  Know this...the forks are identical, same part number #3503...makes no difference which one you use 1st, but it does make a difference which way it faces.  The 2 shift rails are not identical...one has the indents for the detente balls equally spaced (low and reverse shift rail)...and one has the indents not equally spaced (2nd / 3rd shift rail).

 

At this point, I want to post this picture of what it should look like when complete.  Notice that the forks are aligned over the input shaft bearing, also, the forks themselves are on opposite sides, also that the square parts of the fork (where the shifter sits) are facing each other, and that the grooves in the shift rails are facing each other.

 

The bottom rail is the 1st and reverse...use the rail that has the indents equally spaced.  Make sure the grooves face up and the fork is on the far side.  I use an aluminum siding nail to line up the holes for the roll pin...tap in roll pin.  It helps to start the roll pin along with the nail.

 

 

Now position the 1st/reverse shift lever so that the middle indent line up with the detente hole.  Install the 1st detente ball...then the spring with the stop pin.  A little grease works good here.  Position the 2nd detente ball on top of the spring.  I use a 3/16" Allen wrench to push that ball down into the hole and then try to slide the 2nd/3rd rail into the hole and past the 2nd detente ball.  Once you get past the ball, place the other fork on the rail.  Again, start the roll pin and line up the holes with the nail.  Set the roll pin and make sure the the rail grooves face each other, and that you have the shift square when you look down the shifter hole.  The center notch in each rail is neutral...you should be able to now move the rails, one at a time, from neutral and into one of the other notches and back.  It should feel smooth and you should feel the detente ball hit it's position when you shift.

 

That should do it.  You can put a dollop of grease or silicone to plug the 1/4" hole in the case that lines up with the detente parts. 

[oliver2-44 10,274]

Thanks Stevasarus  Great description.