Jump to content
purdey

C-175 - 8 speed transmission failure?

Recommended Posts

pfrederi

Square head set screws

 

set.JPG

dog point.JPG

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
purdey

Hi Guys, thanks for all your input.  

 

I have now found the root of problem!  When the hub slid down the shaft (axle) I simply realigned the key and slid it back into position.  What I should have done is take it off the shaft and examine it!  When the hub started to slip down the shaft and the key rotated while the it was in use, the outer end of the key protruded out at about 45 deg, and as the hub span on the shaft it acted like a lathe and 'machined' out ~30% of the inner surface at the end of the hub!!  Attached a picture but it's not too clear.

 

Anyway the shaft seems in good condition so a new hub should fix this.  

 

Thanks :)

hub.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WH nut
1 hour ago, purdey said:

Hi Guys, thanks for all your input.  

 

I have now found the root of problem!  When the hub slid down the shaft (axle) I simply realigned the key and slid it back into position.  What I should have done is take it off the shaft and examine it!  When the hub started to slip down the shaft and the key rotated while the it was in use, the outer end of the key protruded out at about 45 deg, and as the hub span on the shaft it acted like a lathe and 'machined' out ~30% of the inner surface at the end of the hub!!  Attached a picture but it's not too clear.

 

Anyway the shaft seems in good condition so a new hub should fix this.  

 

Thanks :)

hub.jpg

Replace the key and slide it on a little farther.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oldlineman

I had same problem on my 414-8 found hub was worn put replacement good hub on and counter set drilled the axle slightly and all is good now.

Edited by oldlineman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ballbuster

Hello.  I'm a newbie here but have owned my beloved 1969 Raider 12 for right at nine years now.  The reason I registered onto the Red Forum was my leaking axle seals. 

 

I lived with these leaky seals for a while but just brought Thumper back from my son's house, cleaned him all up and decided to attack the problem of the worn axle seals.  

I also need to replace the brake and input shaft (shaft driven by the engine?) seal.  I knew removing these hubs can be difficult because I stripped a Raider 10 and 'raided"

it for parts for Thumper a few years back.  I actually broke one of the hubs from the Raider 10 and quickly understood how fragile they are.  Well, pulling my first hub did not disappoint me. 

It was welded on (it seemed).   Anyway, I took two 6" pieces of 1-1/12" by 1/4" angle iron and designed a puller to wrap around the axle and pull on the rear of the hub down against the axle. 

Ran it right off with my impact gun after much penetrating oil.

 

So anyway, I immediately found the pdf the guys put together on bearings and seals #s for the 8 speed trannys (thanks much fellas!)... but then I read above about "bushings being worn"

allowing excessive lateral movement of the axle.  Well, I have the excess axle movement.

How much of a pain are these bushings to replace? and where do you find these jewels?

 

I've never rebuilt a tranny before.  The closest I have ever come was replacing a shift fork in a Muncie 4 speed when I was a pup.  How much of a pain is the rebuild and are their threads that cover this?

 

Thank yoose.

 

Norm

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

They are not bushings they are needle bearings.  If you have up down or front to rear movement in the axles they are worn out and need to be replaced (some in and out movement 1/8" or less is OK).  if they fail the needles work their way back in the transmission and cause big issues.  You have to remove the transmission from the tractor and split it to replace them.  There are several how to guides here.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/144-transmissions/

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca
17 hours ago, Ballbuster said:

Hello.  I'm a newbie here but have owned my beloved 1969 Raider 12 for right at nine years now.  The reason I registered onto the Red Forum was my leaking axle seals. 

 

I lived with these leaky seals for a while but just brought Thumper back from my son's house, cleaned him all up and decided to attack the problem of the worn axle seals.  

I also need to replace the brake and input shaft (shaft driven by the engine?) seal.  I knew removing these hubs can be difficult because I stripped a Raider 10 and 'raided"

it for parts for Thumper a few years back.  I actually broke one of the hubs from the Raider 10 and quickly understood how fragile they are.  Well, pulling my first hub did not disappoint me. 

It was welded on (it seemed).   Anyway, I took two 6" pieces of 1-1/12" by 1/4" angle iron and designed a puller to wrap around the axle and pull on the rear of the hub down against the axle. 

Ran it right off with my impact gun after much penetrating oil.

 

So anyway, I immediately found the pdf the guys put together on bearings and seals #s for the 8 speed trannys (thanks much fellas!)... but then I read above about "bushings being worn"

allowing excessive lateral movement of the axle.  Well, I have the excess axle movement.

How much of a pain are these bushings to replace? and where do you find these jewels?

 

I've never rebuilt a tranny before.  The closest I have ever come was replacing a shift fork in a Muncie 4 speed when I was a pup.  How much of a pain is the rebuild and are their threads that cover this?

 

Thank yoose.

 

Norm

Welcome to the forum.

Your tractor originally had a model 5071 transmission. Since we don't have an original manual here is the parts list for the transmission. You can compare the original numbers to the pdf and with what you have. Not uncommon to find a different model transmission as they will all bolt in.

The 1969 Raider 10 used a Tecumseh engine so the engine and wiring are different but other parts may be the same.

When you get going on it start your own thread so the members can keep you and your tractor separate from the others.

 

Garry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ballbuster

Thank you for the additional info, Garry.  I did not intend to step on someone's thread.  My apologies to all.

 

Norm

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...