purdey 13 #1 Posted January 7, 2016 Hi Just joined. My 1983 C-175, which has been a great unit, has suddenly stopped in its tracks! With engine running, in gear (any gear 1-4,high or low) no drive from the wheels. Checked drive belt - input shaft turning fine. With back wheels off ground, and in say 3rd gear there is a small amount of movement on the wheels, but can stop both at the same time with my hands! Have I sheared a woodruff key or similar? Anything I can check before taking the transmission apart? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,206 #2 Posted January 7, 2016 (edited) Simple thing but make sure the Hi/Lo range shfter is fully engaged. Hang on whilst I ring up one of our resident tranny pros @stevasaurus He knows way more than I forgot about such matters. Edited January 7, 2016 by WHX6 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,884 #3 Posted January 7, 2016 Yes there is a few things to check before you do that. It really sounds like it is the key that is sheared. If you have it on blocks, take a magic marker and draw across the hub and the axle on both sides. If you can hold one of the wheels, see if the hub has moved on the axle...check both sides. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purdey 13 #4 Posted January 7, 2016 Many thanks, I'll go and check. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purdey 13 #5 Posted January 7, 2016 Yes you scored a Bullseye on that one! The left hand rear hub had slid down the axle (can't believe I didn't spot this) allowing the woodruff key to rotate in its slot by about 45 deg, which then allowed the hub to freely rotate on the axle! So when I held both wheels still, the shaft was in fact rotating freely inside the left hand hub! Only downside is that the hub releasing down the axle seems to have been encouraged by an oil leak where the axle enters the transmission casing! Guess that means anyway I'll have to strip the transmission? Many thanks for the brilliant pointer! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chorusguy 227 #6 Posted January 7, 2016 On my c160 the axle seals are replaced from the outside There are plenty of how to threads on that operation Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purdey 13 #7 Posted January 7, 2016 That gives me some hope - I'll check it out as it would save a hell of a lot of work! Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,876 #8 Posted January 7, 2016 I'm not a transmission expert, but I put new seals on my 312-8 this past year. There was a little bit of fishing to get the old one's out from the outside, and then the new ones went in easily. Also members on here had suggested to me that before you just replace the axle seals, check if the axles have any movement up & down. & side to side which would indicate bearing/bushing wear. A tiny bit of movement (a few thousands) is OK, but if you have a 1/16 of movement the new seals wont last very long due to the worn bearings/bushings not supporting the shaft properly. . 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,884 #9 Posted January 7, 2016 Real good information above. I'm thinking you have 1 1/8" axles...the seal is SKF 11050 and is available from NAPA, Motion Industries, etc. You can dig out the old one with a pick or awl...seal is about 1/8" thick...so you know. BTW...Welcome to Red Square. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,206 #10 Posted January 7, 2016 Hey Steve ..never realized this but after looking for some bushings from Motion last nite come to realize they are WI based and have a bunch of stores right around me.....one right on my wife's way to work! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,884 #11 Posted January 7, 2016 I did not know they were Wis based...cool. Get to know the guy behind the counter...you can then call, place your order and pick up the next day. very hard to beat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,206 #12 Posted January 7, 2016 Yeah no foolin.... go look at their locations... I even thought they have one in your area...Thats what I was thinkin...take him a twelve pack...some brats... i'm in like flint...with no shipping Holy $crap...they got one right in Elgin!! Right off 90! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
857 horse 2,581 #13 Posted January 7, 2016 (edited) 16 hours ago, stevasaurus said: Yes there is a few things to check before you do that. It really sounds like it is the key that is sheared. If you have it on blocks, take a magic marker and draw across the hub and the axle on both sides. If you can hold one of the wheels, see if the hub has moved on the axle...check both sides. I would have felt better if my hub fell off.......Oh no.....my wheel falls off,,,,and people walk up and ask......everthing ok? ........... ollolololoolol.......tractor wheels 101 ..............so it began I needed some MAGIC from that marker .. lolololo Edited January 8, 2016 by 857 horse ........ 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #14 Posted January 7, 2016 One of the best moments of joy is finding all that's wrong with a beloved lame stead is a missing axle key! Visions of doom and gloom replaced with blue skies and sunshine! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,884 #15 Posted January 8, 2016 Jim, the guy behind the counter at Motion Industries off of 90 is Garry...seems I knew him way back in my gas station days. Takes me an hour to pick up my stuff and shoot the breeze with him. Excellent. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,964 #16 Posted January 8, 2016 6 hours ago, purdey said: rear hub had slid down the axle The hardest part of the seal replacement job is usually getting the hub off the axle, you are ahead of the game there. to 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RueMcnasty 1 #17 Posted January 8, 2016 Actually, I think the seal number you need for the 1 1/8" axles is a NAPA part "CR 11124" I just finished replacing the seals on my C-160. The old one was a pain to get out, but the new ones were easy to get on there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purdey 13 #18 Posted January 8, 2016 Hi Guys, Just wanted to thank you all for the welcome to Red Square, and to say that I am totally impressed with the speed of response and depth of knowledge in your group. Wish I found you 15 yrs ago it would have saved a lot of head scratching here in the UK!! Thanks 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purdey 13 #19 Posted January 8, 2016 Hi Dennis, Certainly agree with that! - one minute I am seeing my weekend disappearing and up to my elbows in tranny bits, now with the tap of a hammer on the key I am back in action!! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,884 #20 Posted January 8, 2016 @RueMcnasty the number you put up is for the 1 1/8" axles in a hydro...not an 8 speed. It's OK...it took RMaynard to straighten me out on that issue. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purdey 13 #21 Posted January 8, 2016 (edited) This problem doesn't want to go away! Repositioned the key slid the hub back over it and tightened the two set screws. Wheel back on and drove 100 yards to the tractor shed - Whoops! the hub has already slid 1ins back down the axle. Warn hub or axle? or maybe I didn't torque the set screws enough - anyone know the required torque on these? Thanks Edited January 8, 2016 by purdey Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,090 #22 Posted January 8, 2016 Just a thought but could the set screws on there be regular bolts instead of actual set screws? A set screw will be cupped on the end and should grab the shaft by distorting it a little and creating a small indented circle from the cupped edge. A regular bolt is flat on the end and will not grab onto the shaft as strong as a set screw will. There should also be lock nuts on them to keep them from backing out 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,134 #23 Posted January 8, 2016 Often wondered... when replacing our hub bolts... are they referred to as "dog point" too? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,913 #24 Posted January 8, 2016 1 minute ago, AMC RULES said: Often wondered... when replacing our hub bolts... are they referred to as "dog point" too? No the end is cup shaped to create a ring like dig into teh keyway Dog point are in the shifter and not designed to dig in 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,134 #25 Posted January 8, 2016 So, they're just called hub bolts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
